Falling pics 11/25/09

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We need some chainsawing, timberfalling, bucking, videos/pics.

Jake, Cody, Randy, your up!

Only pictures I can provide right now, involves me performing an exorcism on my refrigerator.
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I got 1 more squirreled away from the other day (the same day as the U.S.S. Unwedgable), I'll slap that sum##### on youtube and post up the link shortly
 
:rock::rock:

Get some Paw-Paw!

Gettin' better with every tree. :cheers:

Yup. A little more face might have helped it go over easier but other than than it looked fine.

HEY JAKE...you already know what you're doing right. We'll just keep nagging at you until you're better than we are. :hmm3grin2orange:

Hey thanks guys, if I get done with that other stuff early enough today I might have to hunt me up sumpin to cut down :rock:
 
If done right, you have control of the tree and can direct what it does, all the way to the ground. With that Sugar Pine, I needed it to fall in such a way, that it went away from the chimney and didn't move when it hit. In many cases, it is done on large diameter trunks when bar length is less them optimal, like using a 60" on a 12 foot tree. The block cut is most often seen in Redwoods where placement and how the tree falls is critical.
 
I believe the technical aspect of the block cut is that it spreads the stress of the hinge and face cut over a larger area (think about the wood flexing around a wide block cutout rather than concentrated at the point of a wedge cutout). This holds the butt on the stump longer, and gives more control as Randy noted. So the tree comes down more gradually and evenly top to bottom. I recall hearing an old timer say he used this cut to gently land trees in poor terrain, since it lessened chances of busting up the tree.
 
Nice explanation Randy and s219, I had a good look at the face cut and see what you mean about the non shearing event that a "block cut" will allow. I've tended to use a winch either hand or tractor mounted when I wanted an absoloute slow fall when I could but will give that a go but not up against a house for the first couple !!
 
I believe the technical aspect of the block cut is that it spreads the stress of the hinge and face cut over a larger area (think about the wood flexing around a wide block cutout rather than concentrated at the point of a wedge cutout). This holds the butt on the stump longer, and gives more control as Randy noted. So the tree comes down more gradually and evenly top to bottom. I recall hearing an old timer say he used this cut to gently land trees in poor terrain, since it lessened chances of busting up the tree.

Exactly right. The block face was also a lot easier to cut than a Humboldt if were running a heavy saw with a long bar. A lot of guys like to snipe the lower edge of the bottom cut. Those big redwoods were valuable and if you blew one up it was a major waste of money and time. We still use the block cut on big pine and fir. I like it on big cedar but I've found a larger snipe is necessary to offset their tendency to shatter.
 
Nice explanation Randy and s219, I had a good look at the face cut and see what you mean about the non shearing event that a "block cut" will allow. I've tended to use a winch either hand or tractor mounted when I wanted an absoloute slow fall when I could but will give that a go but not up against a house for the first couple !!

When you get a chance, try using it on smaller trees, 24 to 36 inchers...just for practice. It seems to work better with heavier trees. Also, you can off-set the snipe a bit to help pull the tree a little if you're not gunned up exactly right.
 
A block cut with a thick hinge, often jacking the tree to get it started, can reduce how hard it hits by maybe as much as half. We used it a few times when dropping a large trunk alongside a building so we didn't break the windows. A block face, thick hinge and a few of the soft branch ends made for a real soft landing with good control of the energy in the falling tree.



Mr. HE:cool:
 
A block cut with a thick hinge, often jacking the tree to get it started, can reduce how hard it hits by maybe as much as half. We used it a few times when dropping a large trunk alongside a building so we didn't break the windows. A block face, thick hinge and a few of the soft branch ends made for a real soft landing with good control of the energy in the falling tree.



Mr. HE:cool:

Half?!

I was BSing with an old boy today that spent time in OG. . . LOTS of cool cool stuff to hear about.
 
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And don't smile, scalers never smile. That's 'cause they think everybody hates them. They might be right.

I think they are cheerier than the lowboy drivers. The scale ramps are where the rumors and information start. They take in various parts of information from the experts--the truck drivers, analyze it, and send the truckers back to the woods with the newest and revised information. Just don't step on those teeter totter ladders, if they have them elsewhere. The ladders are not walkways!
 
When you scale it, be sure and wear an orange vest. Carry a little computer too. Clipboards and paper are out of style.

And don't smile, scalers never smile. That's 'cause they think everybody hates them. They might be right.

I think they are cheerier than the lowboy drivers. The scale ramps are where the rumors and information start. They take in various parts of information from the experts--the truck drivers, analyze it, and send the truckers back to the woods with the newest and revised information. Just don't step on those teeter totter ladders, if they have them elsewhere. The ladders are not walkways!

I was kindof thinking more of the Pat style, hat cocked off to one side hands on hips, one foot propped on the log and (after I had measured it off camera and done computing on the cell phone) "Yup that's about a 2 bushel stick right there"
 

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