FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[ammoaddict]

My big bore is the flattop. I wasn't sure if the crankshaft rod bearing would hold up to the compression of big bore pop-up. I could only get my squish down to 0.26 but it still has strong compression. I have thought about the pop-up but it's milled through hickory, oak, and ash with no problem so I'm happy like it is. I'd rather have more dependability than a little extra power. Now if I get so I can build another 660 I'll try a big bore pop-up. I also went with an OEM decompression valve. Read too many bad things about the FT. And after seeing the FT in my kit I threw it in the trash LOL.

My decomp flew apart, luckily it didn't start and get sucked into the cylinder. I put an OEM Husqvarna one in mine. Did you try the farmertec cylinder first or just go with the hyway. I was wondering how they compared in power. My farmertec had like 145 psi. I don't know how much the hyway popup has but it's alt more. I was going to check it but it was so hard to pull over I was afraid it would break the Chinese starter. I would like to build another but I surely don't need it, don't have time for it and really can't afford it either. I just like messing with saws and guns.

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[Mark68]

My decomp flew apart, luckily it didn't start and get sucked into the cylinder. I put an OEM Husqvarna one in mine. Did you try the farmertec cylinder first or just go with the hyway. I was wondering how they compared in power. My farmertec had like 145 psi. I don't know how much the hyway popup has but it's alt more. I was going to check it but it was so hard to pull over I was afraid it would break the Chinese starter. I would like to build another but I surely don't need it, don't have time for it and really can't afford it either. I just like messing with saws and guns.

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I never mounted the FT cylinder. I got a deal on 2 Hyway kits, one std bore w/pop-up and a big bore flattop. $80 for both so I jumped on them. I don't know what the psi is but I have to use the decompression to start it. I've got arthritis in my hands so I put a D-ring handle on it when I rebut the pull start. I still have to use a glove to pull it though or it jerks out of my hand. You're very lucky your decompression valve didn't mess up your cylinder. I've read several that had it happen. I would suggest you get the parts from Hyway to rebuild your pull start. I wish I had changed mine out when I was building the saw. This was my first time building one so I watched a lot of videos and read a lot of post too. Bedford's videos helped me a lot too. And I know what you mean about money being tight!

 

[ammoaddict]

I never mounted the FT cylinder. I got a deal on 2 Hyway kits, one std bore w/pop-up and a big bore flattop. $80 for both so I jumped on them. I don't know what the psi is but I have to use the decompression to start it. I've got arthritis in my hands so I put a D-ring handle on it when I rebut the pull start. I still have to use a glove to pull it though or it jerks out of my hand. You're very lucky your decompression valve didn't mess up your cylinder. I've read several that had it happen. I would suggest you get the parts from Hyway to rebuild your pull start. I wish I had changed mine out when I was building the saw. This was my first time building one so I watched a lot of videos and read a lot of post too. Bedford's videos helped me a lot too. And I know what you mean about money being tight!

Yes lucky on the decomp. The black button blew off while starting it, it didn't start and the stem didn't fall into the cylinder. Did you just replace the starter pulley and pawls or all of it?

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[Mark68]

Yes lucky on the decomp. The black button blew off while starting it, it didn't start and the stem didn't fall into the cylinder. Did you just replace the starter pulley and pawls or all of it?

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I replaced all of it. I also ordered a cover from direct from Hyway but I haven't had any problems with the pull start since I rebuilt it. I keep the cover with me when I go out to mill just in case I break it again. I figured it was worth it just to prevent down time. I took my time turning the saw up too. Probably would have been fine after the break in but I just wanted to be cautious. I've been running it at 12.5k and pulls hard. I also run my mix at 40:1 but several recommended 32:1 for milling.

 

[ammoaddict]

I replaced all of it. I also ordered a cover from direct from Hyway but I haven't had any problems with the pull start since I rebuilt it. I keep the cover with me when I go out to mill just in case I break it again. I figured it was worth it just to prevent down time. I took my time turning the saw up too. Probably would have been fine after the break in but I just wanted to be cautious. I've been running it at 12.5k and pulls hard. I also run my mix at 40:1 but several recommended 32:1 for milling.

I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill?

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[Mark68]

I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill?

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I'm going to try Amsoil next time I buy oil. I have read a lot good things by users. My saw slobbers oil out the muffler over 40:1. The extra oil is because the saw is having to run so hard for so long milling. Set up takes a little while but love milling with my saw. A big bandsaw mill would be much easier but broke people never get the easy way LOL! I used some 3" pvc pipe and caps to make an oiller for the end of my big bar. My 28" and 36" bars have done find with the high volume pump I put on the saw. I've wondered if I would've been as well off with a std oil pump and then use the auxiliary oiler on my short bars too. That high volume pump defiantly keeps my bars oiled LOL!

 

[ammoaddict]

I'm going to try Amsoil next time I buy oil. I have read a lot good things by users. My saw slobbers oil out the muffler over 40:1. The extra oil is because the saw is having to run so hard for so long milling. Set up takes a little while but love milling with my saw. A big bandsaw mill would be much easier but broke people never get the easy way LOL! I used some 3" pvc pipe and caps to make an oiller for the end of my big bar. My 28" and 36" bars have done find with the high volume pump I put on the saw. I've wondered if I would've been as well off with a std oil pump and then use the auxiliary oiler on my short bars too. That high volume pump defiantly keeps my bars oiled LOL!

I'm gonna try amsoil saber when I use up the rest of my Stihl ultra. Only problem is I can't find it locally and ordering online the shipping is as much as the oil.
Where did you find your high output oil pump? I wouldn't need a bar over 36" because we just don't have that many big trees around here.

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[Mark68]

I want to try some milling. I have read some about it. I have read people using from 25:1 thru 50:1. I run 45:1 in all my 2 strokes, personally I can't see why a saw would need so much more oil for milling, but there again I have never done it.
Speaking of oil , do you use an auxiliary oiler on your mill?

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if you decide to do some milling I've had good luck with Archer bars and milling chains. That's what one of my 28" is and my 36". My 62" bar is Forrester with a Carlton chain. The Carlton chain mills a lot smoother than the Archer but it also cost a bit more. I cut through 2 nails (looked about the diameter of a 16 penny) with my Carlton and it still milled another 3' down a 50" diameter hickory log to finish the slab and the cut was still smooth. I haven't hit anything with my Archer chains so don't know how they would hold up to it. But the Archer chains do a good job and don't dull out fast. I'm going to get some Carlton chains for my shorter bars but will also keep the Archer chains too. That way I can choose chains depending on the quality of the log and what I'm going to do with the slab. Also the guy I dealt with on the Archer bars and chains was great. Best service I've ever had. You can also but a short chainsaw mill and then order some t-tracks and make whatever length mill you need. Well, if you wanted to mill logs larger than 36" that is.

 

[Mark68]

I'm gonna try amsoil saber when I use up the rest of my Stihl ultra. Only problem is I can't find it locally and ordering online the shipping is as much as the oil.
Where did you find your high output oil pump? I wouldn't need a bar over 36" because we just don't have that many big trees around here.

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I found my HV pump on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-G...677266560?hash=item1a77b16e80&redirect=mobile If the link works that's the same place and same pump I got. The big trees I've got so far was blown down and give to me if I clean them up. The big slabs are defiantly worth it to me.

 

[ammoaddict]

Thanks for the info. I ordered a 36" Archer bar and milling chain on eBay from Archer plus. He was very good to deal with as well. Hopefully I will be able to try some milling sometime this fall.

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[Mark68]

Thanks for the info. I ordered a 36" Archer bar and milling chain on eBay from Archer plus. He was very good to deal with as well. Hopefully I will be able to try some milling sometime this fall.

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You're welcome. Did you use the Farmertec worm gear on your oil pump?

 

[Kcdub1000]

First off thank you every one that has contributed to this thread by bringing facts and experiences with this saw. It has helped change my mind on this saw some what. Keep up the info sharing!


So my .02.
Its interesting that most are so focused about squish. I would be checking port timing first. So for all the new builders. When you go and drop your jug to tighten squish you are lowering all your ports down. You just changed the timing that those ports open and close. Duration remains un changed as dose blow down. Dont forget to check for Freeport after you drop the jug as well. Think of those ports like the valves in you car or truck engine. The timing of those valves are controlled by the cam. I would be much more focused on actual port timing numbers vs squish. Bottom line, if you drop your jug you should really bring the timing back up.. on all ports to take advantage of what you just did.. my advice. Get a degree wheel and learn how to use it and understand what these adjustments actually do to your engine. I bump the compreshon in my saws but I take notes of port timing before and after. And adjusted to my specs..

I would imagine if the squish is that inconsistant on these saws so is the port timing. I would be checking that just like you check squish.. high compreshion is cool and all but your ports offer alot more power gains.


After reading this thread I'm torn on these kits..seem like to make these saws worth a damn and last you need to replace most of the critical components. I'm seing the benifit of buying a used 066 and just rebuilding that. At least it has some dollar value at the end of the day. I may get a kit to play with any how, just really bummed most parts in the kit seem to be reported crap. I wish the cylinders and piston was decent in the kits. Wouldn't be so bad. Seems hit or miss. I guess for the price that is to be expected.

I must admit it might be fun building a nasty one to out run my buddy's actual 066. And around and around we go.

 

[ammoaddict]

First off thank you every one that has contributed to this thread by bringing facts and experiences with this saw. It has helped change my mind on this saw some what. Keep up the info sharing!


So my .02.
Its interesting that most are so focused about squish. I would be checking port timing first. So for all the new builders. When you go and drop your jug to tighten squish you are lowering all your ports down. You just changed the timing that those ports open and close. Duration remains un changed as dose blow down. Dont forget to check for Freeport after you drop the jug as well. Think of those ports like the valves in you car or truck engine. The timing of those valves are controlled by the cam. I would be much more focused on actual port timing numbers vs squish. Bottom line, if you drop your jug you should really bring the timing back up.. on all ports to take advantage of what you just did.. my advice. Get a degree wheel and learn how to use it and understand what these adjustments actually do to your engine. I bump the compreshon in my saws but I take notes of port timing before and after. And adjusted to my specs..

I would imagine if the squish is that inconsistant on these saws so is the port timing. I would be checking that just like you check squish.. high compreshion is cool and all but your ports offer alot more power gains.


After reading this thread I'm torn on these kits..seem like to make these saws worth a damn and last you need to replace most of the critical components. I'm seing the benifit of buying a used 066 and just rebuilding that. At least it has some dollar value at the end of the day. I may get a kit to play with any how, just really bummed most parts in the kit seem to be reported crap. I wish the cylinders and piston was decent in the kits. Wouldn't be so bad. Seems hit or miss. I guess for the price that is to be expected.

I must admit it might be fun building a nasty one to out run my buddy's actual 066. And around and around we go.

These kits are definitely worth the money. I have a different out than I originally did. I called my kit a piece of crap at one point because I was aggravated at all the problems I had. I put it away for a while. When I decided to get it back out, I tried to have a different mindset. Most of the problems didn't cost much to fix. The inside of the piston skirt was hitting the counterweights. Dremeled it a little. I had a very large squish but it did run. The chain tensioner stripped out because of too much play between the shaft and the case. Bought another on eBay and shimmed it to fit. Gas cap leaked, eBay again. Tank elbow leaked, motoseal on that. I ended up getting a good deal on a hyway pop-up cylinder kit. Installed that, ran much better. Got very hard to start, I think the carb was loosing it's fuel charge when it would sit a while. Bought after market carb on eBay, cranks fine now. The fast idle didn't work and still doesn't, but it still cranks good. All the parts I replaced were cheap eBay Chinese parts. There are no OEM parts in mine except for a Husqvarna decomp. The saws runs really good now. I like it. If funds allowed, I would build another one and put an oem throttle rod and trigger in it and an oem walbro carb.

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[Rick Stephens]

No leaks. I was so aggravated at this saw because of all the problems it had, but now that I have gotten them fixed, I really like it. The fast idle still doesn't work, but I can live with that.

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I would second the swap in of an OEM choke shaft and trigger. I did that with the one I built and it fixed the funky idle problems entirely. I think it cost me about $17 for the pair of parts. Of course, I'm gettin old enough the brain cells might be off a bit.

 

[ammoaddict]

I would second the swap in of an OEM choke shaft and trigger. I did that with the one I built and it fixed the funky idle problems entirely. I think it cost me about $17 for the pair of parts. Of course, I'm gettin old enough the brain cells might be off a bit.

Did you get the parts at a local dealer or order them online? I would pay $17 for the fast idle to work.

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[Rick Stephens]

Did you get the parts at a local dealer or order them online? I would pay $17 for the fast idle to work.

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I walked into my local dealer and handed him the part numbers. He tolerates my wayward ways.

 

[ammoaddict]

Thanks, the dealers near me are just hardware stores that sell the homeowner stuff. I will see if they will order them for me.

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[Rick Stephens]

Thanks, the dealers near me are just hardware stores that sell the homeowner stuff. I will see if they will order them for me.

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If you have a problem locally, there are a couple dealers on this forum, like @redbull660

 

[ammoaddict]

Today I had to replace the Hlhic carb on one of my 660’s.
The inlet needle wouldn’t hold any pressure and would flood the engine. Tried a new needle and it still acted up. That carb is about a year old.
So I put a walbro WJ-76 on it.
It idles and runs way better with this carb anyway. Still running the FT piston and cylinder on this one.

Does it start better too? Does your fast idle work?
I may have to invest in one as well.

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[ammoaddict]

If you have a problem locally, there are a couple dealers on this forum, like @redbull660

Thanks for the info

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