MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
lol thats funny.
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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lol thats funny.
I looked for the jet size on the 320a and could not find it. Do you know what you are getting? Still wet here and more due. 2 days of rain 2 days of dry is the type cycle we are in. I did get mine tuned and cut a few rounds and the .74 jet is sweet. I left it at 12500, the air was kinda warm at 55 so i will see how cold it is and how it does next start. Until I get about 4 tanks on it I keep a tach on it a lot. Its in my hand while i cut too, I have the long wire on it.Well Bedford T i went ahead and ordered a Tillotson hs-320a today it should be here sometime next week $55.99 I like.
i am also working on a simple something to help me start my saws. my feet are size 13 and I wear viking bushwhacker lug sole class one chainsaw boots that are also steel toed so no way i can't get my toe in them to ground start and thats the only way i can do it, on the ground. I have been using a 1x4 board and putting it in the handle and stepping on the board and it holds it down good. But, its just hard to shake out as i pick it up to gain control. you really don't want to shake the bar of a big mean saw and thats what happens when you try to get rid of the wood. but i will sort it out. i just need to shape the wood, figure out the best shape. also my chain was all lathered up really well. that oilier is doing its job. you got one of those too?
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
The carb was shipped this morning so mostlikely be here Friday not sure on the jet size that it will have I'm hoping its bigger than a 62 thats for sure.
glad you got your saw working good now itsi my turn now . Lol
Do you find fault with the HL kit?
I was blocking 20-24" white oak with my HL kit and Father was even impressed, Father don't like anything that's my idea.
Their kit is a FarmerTec kit just in their bags. Literally.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Well Bedford T although I don't get my new carb today but maybe tomorrow it will show up but seens I had some time on my hands this morning I had a friend come over with his jet reamer and i took the stalk .62 jet and ternd it into a .70 jet wow what a difference it made now the high speed kneatil is 1-1/4 out from bottom way way better. Now I really can't wait for the tillastion be funny to see how it runs with that because it run super great now.
Awesome! This stuff is exciting. It will be here soon hopefully. You got something to play with until. It will be interesting to see which you like better. Maybe you can use your buddies tools to determine the size of the jet in your new carb. Think of how small 62 is. I been saying starving our saws and that is what happens at 62
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yep we already talked about checking the jet size on the tillastion when it gets here it will be fun. Lol
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yea I noticed on mine today it was weeping a little bit there rubber gets to soft with fuel so next month I'll be putting stock lines on mine as well as vent that should make it pretty solid on the fuel side of things. How much of a difference did you notice on yours?? Must make you feel good that yours is running strong now.
With fuel, it's gotta be perfect or we can run into issues. Since we built it putting those few parts on it makes it reliable. I built a beautiful saw. Perfect. Then I had trouble just pulling on the recoil and after a good amount of time and effort I got it all sorted out.
So yes sir it does feel good. I can run mine with confidence that there is zero reason for me to go lean. Even my filter would now stay submerged should I rolled it on it's side. My carb should not surprise me in the cut.
thats where you are headed
So yes sir it does feel good. I can run mine with confidence that there is zero reason for me to go lean. Even my filter would now stay submerged should I rolled it on it's side. My carb should not surprise me in the cut.
thats where you are headed
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Lol. Yep cant wait ill let you know if my carb comes tomorrow and what I find out on the jet.
Sorry I overlooked that in my response. I think it is better and will prevent a problem later, especially considering that the vent is oem. So I can exclude that as a first line worry.
In closing, the fuel lines and connector is oem. So it should be and stay tight a long time. I am going to add this suggestion on my website
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Well im a little bumb out the carb didn't show up today so hopefully it will be here tomorrow.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yea they gave me tracking but every time I tap on it it won't respond. But I've figured maybe if it takes longer to get here it must be good. Lol.
I've been lurking and reading these threads a lot but now that my build is complete I thought I should document my challenges. Afleetcommand and Matt's bolt-for-bolt videos were very helpful as were these threads. This is my first time working on chainsaw guts.
I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.
I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.
The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).
I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).
I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.
My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.
My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.
I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.
I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.
I kinda want a 361 kit next...
I ordered my kit in September but only got it running this week (after multiple teardowns and redos, and much frustration). The big breakthrough was figuring out how I have to use the decomp valve. I can't just click it on then pull the cord, since when it fires it almost pulls my arm out of the socket (and doesn't start). But if I hold the button down while pulling, then release it at the end of the pull stroke, there is enough angular velocity for the saw to start when it fires. Maybe that's common knowledge and I should have asked earlier. I'm still on the first tank but it seems to be working great.
I am aware of the bad rep of the Huztl decomp so I'm using an all-metal Forester branded one.
The only part missing was the clutch cover but they sent one no prob (just via china post).
I'm using a 54mm top end from a random china ebay seller since I stripped the decomp valve threads in the Huztl one. The new one is at 0.025" squish with no gasket, just motoseal. Also a random china ebay carb since I was trying to rule that out (the new one says "Walbro"...).
I used a press for the crank install and took the seals out first, and used new china seals both times. I had to redo the crank install since I messed up the gasket the first time and I later decided that a motoseal-only crankcase didn't leave enough internal clearance (< 5 thou or touching on both sides). As a last step I used a mallet on the shaft along with appropriate inside shims to make sure there was no preload on the bearings and get it fully centered. For press tools I just needed a piece of 3/4" iron pipe and a couple identical-length pieces of 5/8" steel rod. I used harbor freight blue loctite on the outer walls of the seals.
My china seals pass vac and pressure tests fine (for now). If you order a MityVac don't get it through eBay. I had an issue with the gauge not showing vac and the manufacturer was no help. Finally fixed it myself by slamming it hard against a table which somehow reset the needle.
My fuel line was leaking so I replaced it with tygon. I also used a utility knife to remove mold ridges on the elbow on top of the tank. The gas cap leaked so I got an OEM, but it doesn't seem any nicer. I still have to use a screwdriver to get it tight enough.
I was so excited to get the saw running that I throttled it a little with the chain brake on and melted the clutch eclip. The Stihl tech at the dealer suggested I get a new washer too and I think it was worth $3 for the washer. The chinese one is thin and stamped but the OEM one is thick and machined. Probably not a common failure point I guess.
I picked up a Huztl 070 preassembled on cyber monday since I wasn't sure if the 660 would ever run and I already had the Huztl 36" mill. I've only cut ten 20" slabs but it's working fine. I may try the 660 out with the mill but the 070 is pretty nice to use. I got a 42" bar to go with the 070. I guess the 660 might cut faster but get hotter. Even just considering the pitch/sound freq of the 070 vs the 660 I might want to stick with the 070 for milling.
I kinda want a 361 kit next...
Yea they gave me tracking but every time I tap on it it won't respond. But I've figured maybe if it takes longer to get here it must be good. Lol.
A trick I use is to copy and paste the number into Google and it will give you the low down
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
OK I'l give that a try thanks Bedford T.
