FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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The ports also match really well too. The intake port is slightly bigger than the bellow, the exhaust matches the muffler exactly. I was going to build this for a friend, but I might keep it for myself. Although I have no use for a saw this big...
Sometimes tells me this will not be your last.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
I'm assembling mine, finally.
Huztl sent it via SF express. They delivered it and showed delivered on SF's site, but it wasn't to me. They were closed for president's day/new year and when calling their customer service, they told me it had been delivered to a local ups store and gave me the address. It had been sitting there for a week and they had no idea what to do with it.

I got it and checked everything, and found the front locating pin hole must have been jammed and hit in chipping the front of the case. It is below the tank area, but I've still contacted them.
View attachment 634837
View attachment 634839

I've gotten it together to test the squish, and am unabke to get the front clutch side screw into the hole, its hitting the fins. That will have to be cleaned up slightly.
View attachment 634841

I tried it without gasket and it was hitting the top of the cylinder, a good sign. With the gasket, it measured .021. I'm acually impressed. This is the first farmertec cylinder that wont require shaving the base. I'm still going to clean up the ports/transfers and port match it.
Having a kit you paid for misdelivered would be maddening. Can you get an answer why. Never heard of that.

But thanks for sharing

Sorry on the delay

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
I was planning on removing my baffle too, I also got the Walbro carb from mittys.

When you cut the band at the top and the base, is the purpose to decrease the combustion chamber volume and cutting the base to remove the extra gap you create by cutting to top?

So you decrease the volume of the top chamber and move the piston higher by cutting the base, then file the flywheel key to correct the timing.

I've never had it explained to me, so I'm checking if what I think is correct.
Yes it makes the combustion chamber smaller when you do this process but there's more to just moving the flywheel although you can get away with it but if you think about it you change your intake timing and and transfer timing and exhaust timing. So I would recommend taking baby steps if you never did this before. But it can be a lot of fun.:yes::drinkingcoffee:
 
Yes it makes the combustion chamber smaller when you do this process but there's more to just moving the flywheel although you can get away with it but if you think about it you change your intake timing and and transfer timing and exhaust timing. So I would recommend taking baby steps if you never did this before. But it can be a lot of fun.:yes::drinkingcoffee:

I don't plan to get that in depth with it, just more of a general theory understanding
 
I don't plan to get that in depth with it, just more of a general theory understanding
It's fun but a lot of math and the only problem that I found doing it is every am saw is different so it makes it even more fun to me but like me it helps to have someone teach you because you can take a good running saw and then gash darn it i knew I should have left some more material in the intake port. Lol. :laugh:
 
IMG_4948.PNG IMG_4947.PNG Yes morbius like Mgporting said. Decreasing the chamber volume then cut the base to bring the piston back to around .020 squish. Then you port and change the port timing to what you like. As far as ign. Timing I like 8° advanced.
Work still in progress.
 
View attachment 634948 View attachment 634947 Yes morbius like Mgporting said. Decreasing the chamber volume then cut the base to bring the piston back to around .020 squish. Then you port and change the port timing to what you like. As far as ign. Timing I like 8° advanced.
Work still in progress
Nice port work there you opened it up a bit. Lol that's going to be a screamer. You polished your exhaust like chrome like I do looks pretty.
 
We're opening it up close to 70% I believe. I like to polish the exhaust. I feel any carbon build up while running is a restriction.
Last one we did had 101 123 83 with 20° of blowdown and 195lbs of compression. It was strong with a 32 and 36" bar.
 
We're opening it up close to 70% I believe. I like to polish the exhaust. I feel any carbon build up while running is a restriction.
Last one we did had 101 123 83 with 20° of blowdown and 195lbs of compression. It was strong with a 32 and 36" bar.
Very nice work I like. Makes mm want to go and do some more on mine but I need to contain myself I'm going to wait until I get another cylinder and piston kit before I do. Lol
 
Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out.
With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found.
Oem piston weight was
94g
Meteor 96g
Hyway 89g
Cross 86g
 
Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out.
With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found.
Oem piston weight was
94g
Meteor 96g
Hyway 89g
Cross 86g

Would you pair the cross piston with caber rings? Are there any ussues with the cheap chrome farmertec cylinders and decent rings?

That port looks great. At some point I'd like to get a lathe, after I finish remodeling the house, turning our old tobacco barn into a horse barn with stalls, raising kids.... Some day
 
Thanks I'm learning. My friend has the lathe and grinding equipment. We're trying a few different things with a couple cylinders. Their cheap compared to oem so I don't feel so bad when one doesn't work out.
With the bad reputation of the cross cylinders I haven't tried one of those. But their piston seems good and lighter than any I've found.
Oem piston weight was
94g
Meteor 96g
Hyway 89g
Cross 86g
Yea i here you. Lol. I guess if someone wanted to make a torke monster they would go with the heavyer piston but if you want it to scream go with the cross. :chainsaw:
 
Would you pair the cross piston with caber rings? Are there any ussues with the cheap chrome farmertec cylinders and decent rings?

That port looks great. At some point I'd like to get a lathe, after I finish remodeling the house, turning our old tobacco barn into a horse barn with stalls, raising kids.... Some day
Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
I'm trying to justify keeping my 660. I own a 6 acre small farm, cut occasional wood for woodstove (not primary heat), I'm retired from Military so I have a lot of spare time. I own ms170, ms250, 024 sleeper (260 cylinder with fins removed) 026 pro, 2x 028s, 034, 036 pro, 036, farmertec 440, and now the farmertec 660. I try to justify it, one for stumps, one for junk, one for.... and I've got to have a backup for the backup for the original.
 
Morbius I didn't use the cabers because I wasn't sure which they were the hard or the softer ones so I went with hyway.

Mgporting. Lol. I had them all and was looking then I wondered about the weight. I open and taper the piston windows anyway. Just somthing to play with. I don't like going over 200psi. Anymore and it seems to fight against itself
 
Morbius I didn't use the cabers because I wasn't sure which they were the hard or the softer ones so I went with hyway.

Mgporting. Lol. I had them all and was looking then I wondered about the weight. I open and taper the piston windows anyway. Just somthing to play with. I don't like going over 200psi. Anymore and it seems to fight against itself
Yea 200psi is a lot like you yield feel better at 180s or 190s that's a safer zone.
 
That's what I've discovered from reading. Is there a specific ring that everyone is using, or just the ones that come with the kit?
kit rings are great with the farmertec jug. should you change your jug thats when its safe to consider alternatives.
 
i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.

background
i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.

issue
a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.

would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?

thanks
 

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