FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[MG porting]

i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.

background
i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.

issue
a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.

would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?

thanks

The one I had was the same way open on one side but closed on the other side you can still split the case put have to be more careful. The pins tend to fit looser on one side than the other just go at it slow.

 

[Bedford T]

The one I had was the same way open on one side but closed on the other side you can still split the case put have to be more careful. The pins tend to fit looser on one side than the other just go at it slow.

Then I need to write that should be drilled out. Then you can build it and pop them out when your done like you are suppose to.

Knowing before hand is being in control. It's should be simple to drill it. All mine were removed, except the last.

I documented it, so those that read will know. I can't believe I missed that as it was happening.




http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[TheTone]

Capers and chrome cylinders are not a good fit

Caber makes both I-cast and F-cast rings. The I-cast rings are the softer ones. You don't want the F-cast ones.

 

[MG porting]

Then I need to write that should be drilled out. Then you can build it and pop them out when your done like you are suppose to.

Knowing before hand is being in control. It's should be simple to drill it. All mine were removed, except the last.




http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

Yea just making sure that they get drilled before they get put together should be good enough the oem Stihl still has there pins left in them to help make the case halfs from flexing as much so I recommend leaving them in but thats just me being a little more coshis.

 

[Bedford T]

Yea just making sure that they get drilled before they get put together should be good enough the oem Stihl still has there pins left in them to help make the case halfs from flexing as much so I recommend leaving them in but thats just me being a little more coshis.

i will say i think your mistaken. i am reading the manual, back in a minute. they have to be removed to safely crack the case at the very least. if the holes are not drilled then you could mess the case up.

Where i read that it was recommended to remove the pins and store I can not find it. I am tired so i could be over looking it or it was not in the service manual. i did not make it up. but the point was the holes are not drilled and thats bad. easy fix knowing about it.

 

[Bedford T]

My interest is not in being right. It's about creating a correct record of how to.



http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[MG porting]

My interest is not in being right. It's about creating a correct record of how to.



http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

I know no worries.

 

[morbius18]

i just noticed something... to the guys still at the parts in a box stage. i need some info.

background
i have a 440 case that i am just getting around to cracking to remove a bad crank. i noticed that the exit holes for the case locator pins are missing. meaning i can not find a way to beat them out to crack it.

issue
a wave of fright swept over me when i saw this because i could not remember removing them from my last 660 build. that would have meant that on the 660 case the holes do not go all the way through like they should either. so huztl made it so the cases are harder to reuse if thats true.

would someone look and see if the two holes are fully open?

thanks

My 360 kit was the same way. Front pin by oil tank was one sided. I had to drill it out. I just assumed it was 'one of those things' in dealing with a chinese kit. Same thing with checking ports and the wrong brake spring. I've ran into all of those.

My 440 kit had the vibration issue also. I replaced with oem : av stuff, flywheel, clutch and clutch sprocket. It fixed the issue.

 

[Imprzed205]

My 660 kit had several problems. It had the wrong wrist pin, brake spring, no pin the the band and a clutch that wouldn't fit the crank.

 

[Bedford T]

They can make a subtle change and it can go unnoticed. There is more than me building these kits, it would be nice if you mentioned physical changes like this. Missing stuff not the same, just as important but different. Took me 8 weeks to catch it

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[Bedford T]

Caber makes both I-cast and F-cast rings. The I-cast rings are the softer ones. You don't want the F-cast ones.

Caber only makes one material type for the MS660 and that type is F CAST IRON (GH. F.). made exclusively for nikasil.

they do make a few models for husky with the I type material.

no ms660 cabers rings are made any other way. a myth or a misunderstanding. dont mess up your farmertec with those outstanding rings. right product wrong application.

 

[morbius18]

I ran into a problem. I sealed the cylinder and was getting a massive air leak. So much my handheld gauge would run down right after setting it down. I used soap water on seals, good. Farmertec plug had a slight bubble, oem decomp was good. I thought exhaust black sandwiched between the muffler and cylinder.

I hooked up a cylinder leakdown tester to continually blow air through it. It is leaking all along the flywheel side base gasket.

I oriented the gasket with raised side up. It appears the cylinder is hitting the side of the case and not clamping all the way.


Unless the gasket isn't right. Any Ideas?

 

[Imprzed205]

Glad you did a pressure test that would have been bad. But That's not to bad of a problem It can be over come. I would take a little off the cylinder and the case in that spot. A small air gap is all that's needed. 1-2 mm would be plenty

 

[morbius18]

Glad you did a pressure test that would have been bad. But That's not to bad of a problem It can be over come. I would take a little off the cylinder and the case in that spot. A small air gap is all that's needed. 1-2 mm would be plenty

That was my quitting point for the night. I'll hit it tomorrow and see if it is still an issue.

 

[Bedford T]

I ran into a problem. I sealed the cylinder and was getting a massive air leak. So much my handheld gauge would run down right after setting it down. I used soap water on seals, good. Farmertec plug had a slight bubble, oem decomp was good. I thought exhaust black sandwiched between the muffler and cylinder.

I hooked up a cylinder leakdown tester to continually blow air through it. It is leaking all along the flywheel side base gasket.

I oriented the gasket with raised side up. It appears the cylinder is hitting the side of the case and not clamping all the way.
View attachment 635037

Unless the gasket isn't right. Any Ideas?

the gasket is upside down. the bump goes inside. so get some sleep and hit it tomorrow. you might have messed the gasket up. so go slow there

 

[morbius18]

the gasket is upside down. the bump goes inside. so get some sleep and hit it tomorrow. you might have messed the gasket up. so go slow there

I searched your post where you called Stihl. So it goes like a bowl?

 

[Bedford T]

I searched your post where you called Stihl. So it goes like a bowl?

That side up that why we gotta each other. A lot to it.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[morbius18]

That side up

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

Thanks, very helpful. I'll correct it tomorrow.

 

[morbius18]

If you look at the pic, on the right side you can see the gap. I wasnt able to get any feeler gauge between the case and the cylinder where it was hitting the transfer bulge.

 

[Bedford T]

If you look at the pic, on the right side you can see the gap. I wasnt able to get any feeler gauge between the case and the cylinder where it was hitting the transfer bulge.
View attachment 635052

I encourage you to get some rest. If it's not sitting flat it's not going to sit right. It is already tight. I been where you are and it will iron out. No major problems have been reported like that so let's assume it the gasket, until it's not.

The chances are very high it is

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info