FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[hacksaw11111]

My 660 kit had several problems. It had the wrong wrist pin, brake spring, no pin the the band and a clutch that wouldn't fit the crank.

What should the "pin in break band" look like?
edit - I see the pin in the bag, not attached. will it fall out? should I get another?

I got the wrong break spring too, but I got an OEM ahead of time thanks to bedfords suggestion.
Does your clutch have the wrong threads? mine screws on, think its ok.
Whats wrong with your wrist pin? I was going to order an OEM, but I must have forgot to, because I don't see it...did get the OEM bearing tho.

 

[TheTone]

Caber only makes one material type for the MS660 and that type is F CAST IRON (GH. F.). made exclusively for nikasil. they do make a few models for husky with the I type material. no ms660 cabers rings are made any other way. a myth or a misunderstanding. dont mess up your farmertec with those outstanding rings. right product wrong application.

The Caber website lists two ring types for the 066:

G15H is the ring style:

Here is the Ebay listing from seller dandrikop in Greece:


I'm going to send him a message and make sure about this.

 

[TheTone]

That side up that why we gotta each other. A lot to it.

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That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.

 

[Bedford T]

That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.

Imagine a bowl.

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[Bedford T]

The Caber website lists two ring types for the 066:
View attachment 635060
G15H is the ring style:
View attachment 635062
Here is the Ebay listing from seller dandrikop in Greece:
View attachment 635063

I'm going to send him a message and make sure about this.

Go back to the website and find the list with ms660. The thing you are showing does not say a word about "I". The website is the expert.

Go back and click on the description of the materials. Two places. One tells you the model and the specs and the other described the material the specs give. Find a modern Stihl with an "I" material. Ain't one

That's all I got for you. Go with your heart










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[Imprzed205]

I encourage you to get some rest. If it's not sitting flat it's not going to sit right. It is already tight. I been where you are and it will iron out. No major problems have been reported like that so let's assume it the gasket, until it's not.

The chances are very high it is

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I highly doubt that's his problem. Even no gasket should have plenty of room. Just saying

 

[Bedford T]

What should the "pin in break band" look like?
edit - I see the pin in the bag, not attached. will it fall out? should I get another?

I got the wrong break spring too, but I got an OEM ahead of time thanks to bedfords suggestion.
Does your clutch have the wrong threads? mine screws on, think its ok.
Whats wrong with your wrist pin? I was going to order an OEM, but I must have forgot to, because I don't see it...did get the OEM bearing tho.

The brake band should come with the pin in it. that band comes under high tension. i threw mine away. if you can not find one mounted i would head to the stihl store. if that pin you placed were to come out and get tossed around it could damage something or it could cause your brake fail.

the wrist pin is much lighter than the farmertec one. do you think your engine would benefit? i do and did and that why i recommended it. do you need it before you start kinda..so i told you and the world.

a few times i placed the screws in that odd hole before placing the jug and that helped i could wiggle it in and push it back up out of the way.

 

[morbius18]

I have a hard time sleeping, so I was at it during the wee hours this morning.

I had a spare gasket/seal set and tried a different one, still leaking. Flipped both gaskets, still leaked.


It was also bubbling through the back bolt hole:

I got out the gasket paper and cut one that matches the steel one, quite a bit better, but still small bubbles coming under.

I pulled the cylinder off and checked the base with a straight edge all across the cylinder and there is no noticable deformity and it appears flat with a straight edge and light. Did the same to the cylinder and it looks good to the naked eye. There is goid clearance after filing the transfer bulge. The base isnt hitting. The bolt holes are all drilled correctly and tapped to the end.

As a last resort I motosealed the paper gasket and cylinder and left it over night.



It sealed and held. Something is evidently not machined correctly. Could be both metal gaskets. But still slight seepage with paper leads me to believe it's not gasket related.

 

[Bedford T]

I have a hard time sleeping, so I was at it during the wee hours this morning.

I had a spare gasket/seal set and tried a different one, still leaking. Flipped both gaskets, still leaked.
View attachment 635099

It was also bubbling through the back bolt hole:
View attachment 635100
I got out the gasket paper and cut one that matches the steel one, quite a bit better, but still small bubbles coming under.
View attachment 635101
I pulled the cylinder off and checked the base with a straight edge all across the cylinder and there is no noticable deformity and it appears flat with a straight edge and light. Did the same to the cylinder and it looks good to the naked eye. There is goid clearance after filing the transfer bulge. The base isnt hitting. The bolt holes are all drilled correctly and tapped to the end.

As a last resort I motosealed the paper gasket and cylinder and left it over night.

View attachment 635102

It sealed and held. Something is evidently not machined correctly. Could be both metal gaskets. But still slight seepage with paper leads me to believe it's not gasket related.

I am guilty of being optimistic. Just so you know. The gasket should be installed correctly. I heard what you said.

Second on more than one I had trouble getting it to seal, so I started using sealant on every one.

So you are good, except if you did not use gasket material that was anything other than 0.5mm then I think you should check your squish. Stihl also had a 660 gasket 1.0mm

Good job

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[Bedford T]

Can you imagine now people that don't do the tests? Lol

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[morbius18]

I checked it with both, just omitted it. The paper gasket is .030 thick vs the steel .020. But doesn't compress as much I'm sure.

It's sitting at .022 with the paper and sealant.

Thanks for keeping that in mind for me, though.

 

[Bedford T]

I checked it with both, just omitted it. The paper gasket is .030 thick vs the steel .020. But doesn't compress as much I'm sure.

It's sitting at .022 with the paper and sealant.

Thanks for keeping that in mind for me, though.

This is a public forum. Others come read the questions and answers. My thread and it's purpose is educating kit builders. First time people who wanna but never done it before.

So don't let that hurt your feelings. And your calipers are off. The kit gasket is .5mm

If I let it go people would walk away with the wrong info. My pledge to myself was not let that happen.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[morbius18]

Here's where I'm at now:


I also had a few difficulties. The clutch drum seems to have had the pump drive wire slot cut too shallow. It was pushing it down and causing it to hit the case and stop. I dremeled it deeper. The included bearing was really tight. I test fitted it and had to pry the drum off. I used another that I had ordered previously from huztl.

I also had an unknown o-ring. It's not the chain tensioner one, or the one for the oil pump. I had a few extra pieces that had already been installed on the handle.

Any ideas on this one?

 

[Bedford T]

Here's where I'm at now:
View attachment 635152 View attachment 635153

I also had a few difficulties. The clutch drum seems to have had the pump drive wire slot cut too shallow. It was pushing it down and causing it to hit the case and stop. I dremeled it deeper. The included bearing was really tight. I test fitted it and had to pry the drum off. I used another that I had ordered previously from huztl.

I also had an unknown o-ring. It's not the chain tensioner one, or the one for the oil pump. I had a few extra pieces that had already been installed on the handle.

Any ideas on this one?
View attachment 635154

Oil pump. There are extras where it came pre installed

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[morbius18]

This is a public forum. Others come read the questions and answers. My thread and it's purpose is educating kit builders. First time people who wanna but never done it before.

So don't let that hurt your feelings. And your calipers are off. The kit gasket is .5mm

If I let it go people would walk away with the wrong info. My pledge to myself was not let that happen.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

.020" is .5mm
I also occasionally check my feeler gauges to verify, and while its a cheaper gauge, it matches.

I'm not trying to be satcastic either, I really meant the thanks for keeping me in mind.

 

[Bedford T]

i went and checked mine and it is off. course i know that. i need to get one thats closer.

 

[morbius18]

Metric to inch conversions... lol

 

[golddredgergold]

Ok ordered my 660 a few days back on eBay through machinesdoctor. They marked as shipped with a number I have never seen before config wise. When tracked it comes up with Japan post. And no record found of the item. Is this normal will it eventually end up showing some tracking? Has anyone else felt with this?

 

[Bedford T]

Ok ordered my 660 a few days back on eBay through machinesdoctor. They marked as shipped with a number I have never seen before config wise. When tracked it comes up with Japan post. And no record found of the item. Is this normal will it eventually end up showing some tracking? Has anyone else felt with this?

Welcome, Where are you? Japan?

The way it works normally to the states is the carrier will March it through customs in china, put it on a plane and when it gets to New York and goes through us customs then it gets assigned to a us carrier like ups or FedEx USPS. So when it gets to New York give it 36 hours and call the original shipper us customer service phone number and ask for your new tracking number and then you can track it to your house.

Aftership works good for getting to new york

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[golddredgergold]

I am in California. This tracking they provided is lame. I will message them right now.


Note: I just messaged through ebay that the Japan post number they provided is no good. I wish to get the correct number. We will see what the response is