FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[Bedford T]

So that looks like a no. Only 7t or 8t available. Interesting well 7t it is then.

I updated my answer

exert: for ms660 and others like it

As for sprocket size, for bar lengths up to 32", a 3/8" x 8 or a .404" x 7 works well. This gearing provides good chain speed, yet still offers plenty of stump power.

When running a 36" bar and .404" pitch, the .404" x 7 remains the best size. When running a 36" bar and 3/8" pitch, a 3/8" x 7 offers more power, while the 3/8" x 8 favors chain speed.

When running a 42" bar with 3/8" chain, the 3/8" x 7 is the clear choice. This is really a pretty good combination because a 42" bar pushes the limits on saws in this category. The lower gearing that a 3/8" x 7 offers over a .404" x 7 really helps. 3/8" chain is also more flexible and lighter than .404", and this helps, too.

OREGON DURAPRO chain, or the "X" chain as some call it, works well with saws in this category. It's heavy duty cutter tooth cuts a wider kerf than standard saw chain. This is a benefit for saws in this category because this chain is tough and the wider kerf helps keep the longer bars from binding in the cut.

When running a 42" bar with .404" chain, the .404 x 7 is the best option. Even in soft wood, this pushes or exceeds the limits of the smaller saws in this category. Most pro saw users find this combination suitable for use only an occasional basis.

Bars longer than 42" do not perform well on saws in this category with any sprocket combination.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[golddredgergold]

I updated my answer

exert:

As for sprocket size, for bar lengths up to 32", a 3/8" x 8 or a .404" x 7 works well. This gearing provides good chain speed, yet still offers plenty of stump power.

When running a 36" bar and .404" pitch, the .404" x 7 remains the best size. When running a 36" bar and 3/8" pitch, a 3/8" x 7 offers more power, while the 3/8" x 8 favors chain speed.

When running a 42" bar with 3/8" chain, the 3/8" x 7 is the clear choice. This is really a pretty good combination because a 42" bar pushes the limits on saws in this category. The lower gearing that a 3/8" x 7 offers over a .404" x 7 really helps. 3/8" chain is also more flexible and lighter than .404", and this helps, too.

OREGON DURAPRO chain, or the "X" chain as some call it, works well with saws in this category. It's heavy duty cutter tooth cuts a wider kerf than standard saw chain. This is a benefit for saws in this category because this chain is tough and the wider kerf helps keep the longer bars from binding in the cut.

When running a 42" bar with .404" chain, the .404 x 7 is the best option. Even in soft wood, this pushes or exceeds the limits of the smaller saws in this category. Most pro saw users find this combination suitable for use only an occasional basis.

Bars longer than 42" do not perform well on saws in this category with any sprocket combination.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

Thanks bud! I will go do some reading now.

 

[Bedford T]

Thanks bud! I will go do some reading now.

I cut out what I thought was revelant on the 42" 660 sprocket for the 3/8. I was not giving you a reading assignment. Lol those guys have a pro service shop like we all wish we had access to. I read on a 6t somewhere, it must have been special made.

It's also hard to find info like the 42" is about the longest bar on that size saw. We get all manner of guesses on that.


kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[MG porting]

Well Bedford T i poled my main ms660 apart today and had a few surprises I'll post some pics tomorrow but the saw runs really great so hopefully what I found on the old cylinder doesn't happen to the new one wich I'm thinking it won't why different in plating.

 

[Imprzed205]

I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over.
To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored.
Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.

 

[golddredgergold]

Very interesting
Wonder why they kill big end rod bearing once and awhile? I am sticking to 32 to 1. I have an old dirtbike with a known warn out big end rod bearing for years now. You can hear it knock. But 32 to 1 she gets ridden so the time and still trucking. Luck of the draw I guess.

 

[Imprzed205]

I'm wondering if the bearings are hardened or not? Or once they get some wear they hammer their self apart. It was tuned to 12,5-12,8.
I would say 32:1 would have to help. We run 40:1 in all our other saws and didn't want a separate can to keep up with.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I run about 35:1 and so far everything is good. I too used to have an old Suzuki RL250 that knocked badly. Just knew it was going to go any second but ran it for 2 years and sold it. Ran it on 32:1.

Brian

 

[MG porting]

I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over.
To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored.
Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.

Yep she was definitely hot that sucks mine the cylinder and piston look like a there not matched and the cylinder bore looks like it's not true I'm going to have my friend measure the border and see if it egg shaped

 

[golddredgergold]

I run about 35:1 and so far everything is good. I too used to have an old Suzuki RL250 that knocked badly. Just knew it was going to go any second but ran it for 2 years and sold it. Ran it on 32:1.

Brian

Yes ours is a 1974 Ossa 250 trials vintage trials bike. This old girl gets revved to the moon the clutched dumped to get over obstacles. Idles around in between not moving fast and getting super warm at high altitude. It smokes like crazy at 32 to 1 but she keeps running. So I stick with that mix in my old 895 Mac and any saw I mill with. And after seeing the rod bearing I think this saw will always be on 32-1.
I also worked on my 660 rod itself a bunch before I put it and the crank in. I polished the beams and beveled the edges. I opened the oiler detects a little by basically deburing the edges and cleaning them up to help retain and flow oil. I also worked the piston over by beveling and removing all flashing at the port holes in the skirt and all the castings inside the piston. What I learned is that the smooth surfaces tend to hold a sheet or layer of oil that sticks to the polished metal. Which keeps it all coated nicely in oil. The rough surfaces or edges the oil collects on and makes drops that fall and get pushed out the exhaust before doing its job of oiling.
The race 2 stroke bike engines I build we found it makes a huge difference. We can run the engine with no internal polishing and let it sit and open it up. There will be a few cc's of oil that has run down into the bottom of the crankcase left over. We then polish everything then run on the same jug of fuel for the same time. Pull the top end and there will be 50% more oil still in the crankcase. So if it had 2 cc's first it will have 3 cc's after polished parts. Thats more oil in the crankcase coating parts right? So in theory it should have more oil on the internal parts. Kinda like water sheeting on paint versus well waxed where it beads up. You want it the sheet or cover all the parts.

 

[Brian Thacker]

Agree. Used to build and race myself. Do a lot of vintage motors now days and yes you are right, a polished piece of metal will hold a sheet of oil and it sounds like you done all the right stuff. I have found that most of the Chinese manufactured items lack the refinement that others manufactures have. I did not go as far as you did with the crank but I did smooth the ruff edges around the rod and oil ports. Removed mold marks. The other thing I have found is the inconsistent in quality of the parts. I have noticed that while cleaning rods some you can clean up easily and some are harder metals. Same on like intakes. I went through several intakes all from farmertech. The first ones I got was very thin and did not last long. The last ones I got were thicker and have not had any problems out of. I have a small shop and find myself working on several Chinese ATVs, scooters and such. seams like the screws and bolts are milled to a lot looser tolerance than like Japan and USA made items. They strip espalier and are just sloppy instead of being good and tight.

Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

By the way I love the old Ossa's they were good bikes in their day. Used to have a OSSA Pioneer back in the day. A great trail bike. Not many riding trials now days. I wished I had my old Bul 350 Sherco Sammy Miller addition back. Was a fool for saleing it. Should have put it in the garage back in 1980 instead. But should have done that with a lot of bikes I once had. Here is my garage find 1974 Bultaco 250 Alpina.


I swapped the peddles around so the shift was on the left instead of the brake. Back in the day it did not bother me to go back and forth, but now days I get confused.
Brian

 

[Bedford T]

I was using my saw Friday bucking logs before their loaded on the truck and mid cut it just slowed down and cut off. I tried to restart but the saw was hard to turn over.
To say the least I was pissed because I know the tune was right and I run 40:1 mix and just knew the piston was scored.
Well when I tore it down today I found the big end bearing failed. It looks dry because while the bearing was failing it was getting hot and cooking the oil off. This happened with about 15 gallons on it.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it? I'm to to the point where I wished I bought a used 660. I see good used 660's at the local shop go for around 500 so I may go that route.

That has the cross cylinder doesn't? Sux

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[Imprzed205]

No, This was on a farmer cylinder.

 

[MG porting]

Hey Bedford T I went and looked at the ebay item that you posted and it looks a lot like a highway cylinder kit hmmmm makes me wonder. Lol

 

[Bedford T]

Hey Bedford T I went and looked at the ebay item that you posted and it looks a lot like a highway cylinder kit hmmmm makes me wonder. Lol

Shipping was too high but as you can see that is a lot to look at.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[Bedford T]

No, This was on a farmer cylinder.

Those excat symptoms occurred with cross cylinders. You can understand why I asked. 3 tanks and out. That's scary.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[MG porting]

Shipping was too high but as you can see that is a lot to look at.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

Yep they always get you on shipping hat that but sometimes you can get lucky Lol

 

[Bedford T]

Yep they always get you on shipping hat that but sometimes you can get lucky Lol

How many tanks have you got through your last build,?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com

 

[Bedford T]

Yes ours is a 1974 Ossa 250 trials vintage trials bike. This old girl gets revved to the moon the clutched dumped to get over obstacles. Idles around in between not moving fast and getting super warm at high altitude. It smokes like crazy at 32 to 1 but she keeps running. So I stick with that mix in my old 895 Mac and any saw I mill with. And after seeing the rod bearing I think this saw will always be on 32-1.
I also worked on my 660 rod itself a bunch before I put it and the crank in. I polished the beams and beveled the edges. I opened the oiler detects a little by basically deburing the edges and cleaning them up to help retain and flow oil. I also worked the piston over by beveling and removing all flashing at the port holes in the skirt and all the castings inside the piston. What I learned is that the smooth surfaces tend to hold a sheet or layer of oil that sticks to the polished metal. Which keeps it all coated nicely in oil. The rough surfaces or edges the oil collects on and makes drops that fall and get pushed out the exhaust before doing its job of oiling.
The race 2 stroke bike engines I build we found it makes a huge difference. We can run the engine with no internal polishing and let it sit and open it up. There will be a few cc's of oil that has run down into the bottom of the crankcase left over. We then polish everything then run on the same jug of fuel for the same time. Pull the top end and there will be 50% more oil still in the crankcase. So if it had 2 cc's first it will have 3 cc's after polished parts. Thats more oil in the crankcase coating parts right? So in theory it should have more oil on the internal parts. Kinda like water sheeting on paint versus well waxed where it beads up. You want it the sheet or cover all the parts.

How many tanks do you have in your 660 build?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com