FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
Thanks for looking !
Welcome from USA. Good luck with your kit. You will need a decomp for sure. Most other parts are personal preference depending on how far you want to take your build. The huztl bars and chains are plenty good for occasional cutting. The length depends on the size of wood you will be cutting. If you read this entire thread you should be good to go.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !
 
Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !

24" ? Hardwoods? Might want to think about a better cylinder and piston if they are as bad as he told me they are.
 
Not that experienced with saws, thinking about the meteor cylinder kit but will wait to see how the build goes first.
What bar size and chain would you recommend ? The wood is not super hard compared to some woods we get here.
Thanks
 
I put the huztl 25" on mine
Not that experienced with saws, thinking about the meteor cylinder kit but will wait to see how the build goes first.
What bar size and chain would you recommend ? The wood is not super hard compared to some woods we get here.
Thanks

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
A little give away, If 5 people tell their story of what they had to do or change or correct their KIT cylinder kit on their FARMERTEC ms660 kit to make it work or make it safer. Include things like squish how rough it was, any broken pieces, issues

I will write the folks names down on a piece of paper and i will draw one name from my hat on Saturday 28th 8pm est. Free with free shipping to lower 48 sent to winner on Monday 30th

Once you get used to tuning with these disks you will see how accurate you will become adjusting needles. The settings document Stihl has uses this scale, for example telling you to tune H, 1 turn out, on the scale that's 0-0, 1 full turn. But L 1.5 turns to 20 (14+6) makes your adjustment accurate. I use mine Everytime (photo is showing both sides of one disk.

Good luck if got anything to share
8841687c94fa6f25ef59d2b1c35765fa.jpg
8dbc2c6e5ee681cca38a116b0604af78.jpg
27efc6976fca360ca63eb8942f212809.jpg


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
OK Bedford, who won your little drawing?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the reply, will order a oem decomp, will be mainly cutting harder woods like redgum that we get here so I was thinking 24” bar with semi chisel chain. A lot of reading to do on here thats forsure !
The Husqvarna decomp fits it as well, which ever is easier for you to get. That's what I have in mine. It was cheaper than the Stihl plus the blue looks real pretty in that orange cover.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Lol Sorry, I can't say it was easy reading that long post either. And it took 4 days for you to reply.

You really don't know what I've followed! I have read every post as it's happened. The only thing I was looking at is when the cylinders supposedly went bad.
The 2 first ones I use are still ok, They have been with everyday tree cutters and have no idea how much they ran, but it's beat up and looks like it's been abused.
I'll see if I can get some pics, that may be more interesting.

Edit: I don't want this thread from you! Please don't run everyone off. Don't post til your meds wane.
Where did I reply to you. Bizarre post.I don't exactly understand it.

I was trying to help Mike find a guy who could help him tell the story to other guys in the thread and I suggested you but instead you tried to sell him a kit, your dusty kit. Lol. I guess we will never learn if that cylinder kit was any good. How selfless of you.

I will repeat this just once more, the kits have changed over time as far as a item having trouble with occasional part. Like the first cases causing issues with the chain adjuster. The case mold was changed and the problem went away except for occasional issues with the gears afterwards. So saws you built right after they started selling or the kit sitting in your shop are built from aftermarket parts that are different in some cases and that makes a difference when you tell someone about your experience with a part it could be different, I still believe they stack them ready to ship in trailers so they can sell a kit with original cases once in a blue moon when they get low one gets shipped. Keeping up with that helps answer questions.



chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Look at post number 1835. I entered it and told my story.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
My post said

"A little give away, If 5 people tell their story" but only 1 person told their story. Tell you what I will give it to you but you pay the postage. I think the lowest is 3$ usps.

I suspected participation was extremely low otherwise I would have set it @ 20 people and I was right. It's a cool tool. Glad for someone to get it.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Hello everyone from Australia, first post but have been lurking a while.
Just ordered a 660 kit for the experience and light firewood cutting maybe 5 times a year.
Not very experienced with saws but like tinkering with stuff so should be a nice challenge.
Is there any parts that I should buy before building this ? Also what size bar and chain should I be buying for this ?
Any brands I should be looking at or is the farmertec bars and chains good enough ?
Thanks for looking !
Hi down under.


I got a website that can answer some of your questions. On the bar and chain you might want to read some here. There is a fella from New Zealand and he has had trouble with the huztl bar chain. I use them. I suspected it was the wood you guys have in that part of the world. He cuts a lot, daily. That is another consideration in weighing his comments.

But as costly as the stuff is there it might still be a great choice. 28" is longest they sell for this mount. You should have a great time.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Hello and thanks Bedford, I have subscribed to your YouTube and checked out your webpage and am slowly going through all these pages ! Lots of stuff to take in. Now just need to wait for my kit.
 
Hello and thanks Bedford, I have subscribed to your YouTube and checked out your webpage and am slowly going through all these pages ! Lots of stuff to take in. Now just need to wait for my kit.
Savoir it. I love the kits. It's incredible what you learn. Don't you guys have rock hard wood, generally?

Preparing is just as much fun, at least to me. Do you have a manual and ipl? If you don't pm your email and I will send them to you

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Thanks for the offer ! PM sent. Yeah our woods are generally hard, some small local stuff we get here is called myall very very tough, a lot of the guys have to buy tungsten chains so they can get a bit more cutting time with them. Most likely won’t be cutting anything that tough with the kit saw tho, mostly red/yellow gum still hard but not that bad I guess.
Have to see what the aussies/New Zealanders are using chain and bar wise with these saws.
 
Thanks for the offer ! PM sent. Yeah our woods are generally hard, some small local stuff we get here is called myall very very tough, a lot of the guys have to buy tungsten chains so they can get a bit more cutting time with them. Most likely won’t be cutting anything that tough with the kit saw tho, mostly red/yellow gum still hard but not that bad I guess.
Have to see what the aussies/New Zealanders are using chain and bar wise with these saws.
Stihl, Archer is my memory of what he said he had good luck with. He got so frustrated. It occurred to me that it was his wood. I believed based solely on a gut feeling his bar and chain would get hot and his rails would deform.

I knew mine did not and felt that had to be the difference in his case. No reason to tell him that, he figured out what did work. I have no experience with that type wood.

In an international forum I have learned to take into account all these different things that impact other kit builders. Here in America we have the worse gas on the planet, that's easy to figure out and it shows up in the problems we have.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!
 
I wanted to add that the flywheel side bearing feels horrible. I ordered another bearing kit to get seals and again, the same farmertec is terrible. I removed the cage to inspect the races and clean them but can't find the culpret. What has been your observation and what is a AM source for a bearing that doesn't feel like gravel? I just can't use these bearings in good confidence.
 
Hi guys, first post here so I will do a short introduction. I am going to build my first kit saw 660 after looking at the forums and YouTube videos. I have 105 acres of Wisconsin woods that I do logging on and it would be nice to have a saw with a long bar to drop some giant red pine and basswood when the stihl 391 20" bar is not ideal. Ok, I just want to build one lol. I don't want to divulge to much about my employment but I have or have worked as an experimental engine builder, experimental mechanic, and a tech specialist developing engine calibrations, so putting one of these together isn't too confusing. I do have a couple assembly techniques I am going to tryin the crank case assembly and I will share the results. I cringe seeing any videos of guys using a mallet, or a press incorrectly. These are assembled cranks, and hitting or pressing on the end of the shafts can put the crank out of true because the crank is not a straight shaft. I also don't see many guys checking the crank runout, big gamble to trust the Chinese to true them. A cheapo set of v-blocks an an indicator can be used but again, I suggest checking this. My crank was .005 out, I adjusted it to under .002 in the end. I built crank pulling tools but I am going to try a modified version of the heat and cold method with either liquid nitrogen, freon, or dry ice and acetone. I've used this method on installing valve seats into heads, and barrels into trunnion receivers on rifles. Purely drop on! I am fairly confident it will work. And no you don't compromise the parts, in fact cryogenic freezing strengthens them. I'll keep you posted, enjoyed the reading!
Hi, have fun!

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 

Latest posts

Back
Top