FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[William Prophett]

I agree 100 percent. There is a chance though that most past builds didn't have this defect in the bearing as it could be a manufacturer lot issue. Here is a little better picture, not something you want to polish out or use for that matter. I advise everyone to pay attention to this bearing before using.

Haha! That would be a nice little "bump" at 13,000... Solid point. One of the "fatal flaws" of this kit is the fact that the bearings and seals come installed. Everyone would be better off if they weren't and would be smart to take them out (seals for sure) and install them correctly. I believe that Huztl thinks it would scare too many folks off.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Many bearings from Farmertec have issues. I’ve used a few but never in a saw I would sell.
The clutch side is proprietary Stihl so most legitimate bearing companies do not make them for sale outside of the Stihl dealer. Your “search” for a quality bearing should start and end with Stihl.
Some more reputable AM companies have branded bearings that probably come from China (same factory?) as well. I’ve inspected and used a few of these and they’re less likely to have issues when compared to Farmertec/Huztl, etc.

 

[Bedford T]

SK bearings are good quality and have been used by some people.

Kit Bearings have not been an issue in the 440/660 kits and I talk to people all over the world daily sometimes. There has been the issue mentioned quite a bit. Simple fix wash them out.

With every kit a new issue can arise and it can be a one off or a problem for a while and then when that the part lot clears it will vanish.

It's the nature of the beast. When you get a bad part and the part is replaced and they send you another bad one they have a lot of those bad parts. Their method to unloading a bad part is to sell it rather than replace the part in each kit they have boxed ready to ship. That has really upset me over time. They regularly blamed the employee, I said no that's Management's function. No change occurred.


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[Bedford T]

There has been more problems with the main bearings. But those were for entirely different and preventable reasons with the exception of their cylinders interfering

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[Schmalts]

So I got antsy and picked up a new bearing so I could install the side that is a pain in the ass to make a puller tool because of the left hand thread tap cost. I seen vidoes of this already but it seems they just put it in the freezer and still had to beat on the thing because they did not get it cold enough. If I missed one that did do it without beating on it sorry for the repeat. Like I said, I have used this method on many things, and valve seats in cylinder heads is one I used it the most. If you make a mixture of dry ice and acetone you can get colder than -80f easy... but you don't need it that cold for this since the press fit is not that great. I am not going to go into detail of what I used to super cool, but look online for boiling points of different things.. maybe your propane grill tank turned upside down.. wink wink (-45f), CO2 (−109.3 °F), or different freons, but that would be against the laws in some countries... anyway, I made a cooling cup by putting in a hole in the bottom of a can cooler and slipped it on the shaft that was supported on a cardboard box. I used a shim with a scale wrapped in paper to get the size I needed plus the paper makes it pull out easy if you really get it seated on the tighter side. OK... my valve adjustment blades were at my shed off site.... anyway I did take a short video. I put the case half on the oven @ 185f for only 15 minutes. So, another trick I will tell but am not going to go into picture or video is when I do the other side, the gasket alignment is always something that can mess you up when you slide the other side on because you will have about 4 seconds before the bearing grabs the crank from temp normalizing. So here is what you do, you get 5 or 6 bolts that fit in the threaded side of the case but buy them as long as possible, the longer the better. Cut the heads off the bolts and chamfer the ends. You can also cut a little slot in the end to use a screwdriver to aid in removing them if for some reason they are not long enough and did not protrude out the other side. Screw what is now threaded pins into the case half, put your gasket in place (or liquid gasket, this method helps from smearing your bead all over during case half alignment) and do the super chill method but this time the other side will be guided onto the mating half in perfect alignment as it slides down the alignment pins. Hold it as tight as POSSIBLE to the mating half for at least 15 seconds to let the bearing grab the shaft and hold it!. Remove the pins one at a time and replace with the proper bolts and have a beer. I made a puller for the flywheel side, but truth is I will probably do it this way instead and use the puller if for some reason things go bad and I didn't work fast enough.

 

[Bedford T]

That's nice. If you wanted you could raise your temp to around 230 and that will give you a little better margin. Great tools

In Germany and that don't help us here, they have an aerosol that produces extremely low temps. I could never figure out what it was but saw it work. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick

 

[Schmalts]

. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick[/QUOTE]

That's nice. If you wanted you could raise your temp to around 230 and that will give you a little better margin. Great tools

In Germany and that don't help us here, they have an aerosol that produces extremely low temps. I could never figure out what it was but saw it work. I think heat is a good way to go, but you do have to be quick

The good thing is you have some time to get set up, but the clock goes into warp speed as soon as the 2 parts touch so set up is critical. That's why I suggest using the locating pins I described. I just made a set, maybe I will video the second side with them tonight. Another time I use the guide pins is when installing engine covers that have one half of the charging system so the magnets can't pull the cover to one side and lessen the chance of mucking up the gasket, or your fingers.

 

[Marco]

You guys are putting WAY to much into this.

 

[Marco]

A guy who worked for Strange when they was in Evanston teached me about bearings. He also told me about Alton Coleman who was knabbed across the street from the shop in a park.

 

[Marco]

Dana 60 rules.

 

[Marco]

You need to shrink a shaft that much to install it, when the temp stabilizes it will swell the inner race and cause the bearings to gall.

 

[Schmalts]

So the shaft will grow bigger when it stabilizes than when before it was supercooled? Wrong. the only thing different about the end result is the way it is done. Shrinking a shaft to install it or using a press, or a puller to install it will not change the press fit one bit. The press fit is determined long before you install it by the size differences of the 2 mating parts. This is only another option to install it without using the pulling tools. It also has the advantage that when done like this for the second side you have more chance of not having any side loading on the bearing from a bearing being pressed on to little or too far. It's all fly crap differences in the end, but this is just another way for a guy to do this without making or buying tools. You can see the guide pins installed in the case half with the gasket being aligned by them as well. I pre-crushed the gasket by doing a couple torque cycles but here was little to no change in thickness to worry about. Just push as hard as you can by hand to mate the cases and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Again, just another option, no more right or wrong than using the pulling tools but i just like this method myself.

 

[Canyon Angler]

That sudden grab of the 10k rpm screwdriver at 0:55 would give me the fantods ... what, no impact wrench available?

 

[Schmalts]

That sudden grab of the 10k rpm screwdriver at 0:55 would give me the fantods ... what, no impact wrench available?

Lol, yes there was but not the tool for me at this time. I did actually get out the torque wrench to final torque to spec after my 16 yearold son who I was explaining things to stopped the camera. This is a great father/son project if your kid is interested in this kind of thing. He wants to be an engineer, so I try to give him exposure to mechnical things.

 

[Schmalts]

Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.

 

[Bedford T]

Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.

No problems with FarmerTec gaskets but issues with the big bore like free port. Using stacked gaskets is usually not a good idea. The 660 had two gaskets. .5 & 1mm the kit is .5

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[ammoaddict]

I would be very Happy with that squish, mine was .035 with no gasket. It will be interesting to see how much compression you get with that squish.
I like the idea of the guide pins. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I work on textile machinery at work and I have made several sets of guide pins in different sizes to make life easier for me. Great idea.

Figured I would check in with what I found for squish to keep a record of how these parts are coming out of the kit. With the farmertec gasket I had .021 meaning the the piston was hitting without the gasket (I confirmed this) I have a stihl gasket set with 2 base gaskets that if I used both I would be at .034 and if I used one I would be around .017-.018ish . So, going gasketless is not an option without machining the parts, not going there. I am happy with .021, but just want to hear if you guys have had any problems with the farmertec gasket? It looks pretty nice, but want to make sure there has not been any problems with them. I will use a thin film or hylomar on it. BTW, this is the 54mm bore.

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[Schmalts]

That's weird. My Stihl kit 1122-007-1053 has both that are .5mm . Now after looking at it closer this must me a gasket set to fit 2 different saws and I also noticed there is 3 crank seals and the bolt pattern of the base gaskets are different so I answered my own question. So after seeing that there really is only the squish option for .021 hutzel kit gasket or .017 Stihl gasket kit. What would you pick? .017 a little to close for comfort on a plain jane build?

 

[Bedford T]

What gasket are you referring to, I was talking about the cylinder? I am unsure of what to tell you based on that

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[Bedford T]

You might compare them to the supplied gaskets

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