Found a decent deal on an 044

[USMC0802]

If it makes you feel better, by the time I finished my first rebuild I spent about double or better of the value of the saw. I learned a lot about rebuilding top ends. If all you have to replace is the seal your doing pretty good.

That's the only part I will have had to replace twice on the same saw because I screwed up.

I did have to buy some tools, but I'm not counting the price of tools I'll use for multiple other applications as a cost of the project. The two Torx drivers, the Mityvac kit, the seal puller, and little odds and ends, they add up, but they'll be used over and over again.

I'm hoping the assembly goes smoothly after the seals. I don't think there's anything that seems overly complicated after that. I've never put rings on a piston before, so that's something I'll take my time with.

I need to get the fuel line out of the tank and I'd like to work on cleaning up the plastics for a bit of cosmetic improvement.

 

[Brian13]

Dont forget the ring end gap when you do the rings. Other than that its pretty straight forward.

 

[fatjoe]

i`m glad you are squared away now.I do remember that once the worm gear bushing is in place and you install the seal, flush to the race should be good.It should not be recessed at all.Good luck, and take pictures.Definately try and save the seal.You might beable to save it for another project or a backup.

 

[USMC0802]

Any other thoughts, suggestions, or input on the placement of the oil pump worm gear bushing, whether or not to use an o-ring or grease, and the instructions in the service manual?

I picked up the new oil seal for $12.XX and it was part number 9640 003 1972.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Sorry guy`s but I have not been following your rebuild, missed out on this one somehow. You don`t need the O ring on the back end of the spacer, nearly impossible to find anyway, just fill the recess with hard grease. Next thing to watch is once that spacer is installed it has a square shouldered end facing out, it will ruin a good many seals just trying to get them on over it without tripping/ losing the inner coil spring that tensions the lip of the seal.
There is a special tapered tool that slips on over the shaft that is the same diameter as the spacer on the big end and tapers down to just about zero on the small end, this gently expands the seal so it goes on over the spacer without damaging or losing the coil spring behind the seal. If you don`t have the special tool then get some fine string or thread, start winding it around the shaft back at the spacer end and wind it on in such a way as to taper from the spacer shoulder outward down to just a single layer, making a cone shape. Next wind a single layer of electrical tape over the string making a smooth surface for the seal lip to ride up on, lightly grease the surface before sliding the seal up into place. Leave this stuff in place until the seal is properly driven home just in case, hopefully you will not have to remove the seal but just in case. After the seal is in place then remove the tape and string, resume the rebuild.
The reason I do not think you can remove the seal without damage is due to the small coil spring that helps tension the seal lips, it will undoubtedly get damaged during removal. Hope this helps some.
Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

Sorry guy`s but I have not been following your rebuild, missed out on this one somehow. You don`t need the O ring on the back end of the spacer, nearly impossible to find anyway, just fill the recess with hard grease. Next thing to watch is once that spacer is installed it has a square shouldered end facing out, it will ruin a good many seals just trying to get them on over it without tripping/ losing the inner coil spring that tensions the lip of the seal.
There is a special tapered tool that slips on over the shaft that is the same diameter as the spacer on the big end and tapers down to just about zero on the small end, this gently expands the seal so it goes on over the spacer without damaging or losing the coil spring behind the seal. If you don`t have the special tool then get some fine string or thread, start winding it around the shaft back at the spacer end and wind it on in such a way as to taper from the spacer shoulder outward down to just a single layer, making a cone shape. Next wind a single layer of electrical tape over the string making a smooth surface for the seal lip to ride up on, lightly grease the surface before sliding the seal up into place. Leave this stuff in place until the seal is properly driven home just in case, hopefully you will not have to remove the seal but just in case. After the seal is in place then remove the tape and string, resume the rebuild.
The reason I do not think you can remove the seal without damage is due to the small coil spring that helps tension the seal lips, it will undoubtedly get damaged during removal. Hope this helps some.
Pioneerguy600

So the bushing for the worm gear does go on before the seal. Then use string to basically create a cone rather that a step in the bushing, tape it, grease it and the bushing, and then install the seal.

Hard grease...anything specific or what kind?

 

[pioneerguy600]

So the bushing for the worm gear does go on before the seal. Then use string to basically create a cone rather that a step in the bushing, tape it, grease it and the bushing, and then install the seal.

Hard grease...anything specific or what kind?

Yes you got it right
No specific type, its just to help the seal slip on and only a light coat is needed, no worries if there is a little piled up behind the seal, the fuel mix will dissolve it and it will eventually get run through the combustion chamber. Vaseline is one lube I use a lot when putting stuff together on chainsaws, fuel dissolves it readily.
Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

I destroyed the first new seal I installed...oh well. New from the dealer was only about $12 and change.

String and tape made that like a Staples commercial - that was easy. I couldn't find the electrical tape and didn't feel like digging around for it, so I used Scotch tape. Don't do that. It tears apart way too easy. I got it out in two pieces and got all of it, but I wouldn't recommend using it.

I put Vaseline on the bushing on the inside and around the surfaces the seal would contact and put a bit on the crankshaft where the bushing rides. Then wound the string around the bushing until I had a cone about even with the step in the bushing. Then wrapped a piece of tape around the string and put some lube on the tape and the outside rim of the seal and the rubber. It went out nice and easy with a 22mm deep socket and tapped in place with the framing hammer.

Seal maybe tapped in just a bit deep, but the crank still turns freely and I needed to get as close as possible to the edge of the tape so it didn't tear off and get stuck in there.

Pics...

 

[USMC0802]

Anyone have a picture of how they seal the intake port? I'm using a hose clamp and inner tube from a bike tire. Hose clamp is 1/2". I hear the pressure leaking out there. Maybe I need to get some smaller thickness hose clamps. The clamp that holds the intake boot won't open far enough to get over the mount with the bike tube over it.

I'm going to try again with a smaller piece of rubber since it seems to be doubling over when tightened down.

 

[USMC0802]

Smaller piece of rubber is still not cutting it. It's a lot better, but still not holding 5 lbs on either the pressure or vacuum. I can't hear the massive leak like I could before, but it's still slowly leaking off.

I'm satisfied with how slow it leaks off considering I'm probably not using the best materials/tools to create the seals.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Smaller piece of rubber is still not cutting it. It's a lot better, but still not holding 5 lbs on either the pressure or vacuum. I can't hear the massive leak like I could before, but it's still slowly leaking off.

I'm satisfied with how slow it leaks off considering I'm probably not using the best materials/tools to create the seals.

I use the OEM rubber manifold on the cylinder with the factory clamp, plug the small end where the carb mounts with a suitable plastic plug, got hundreds of them to choose from.

Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

I use the OEM rubber manifold on the cylinder with the factory clamp, plug the small end where the carb mounts with a suitable plastic plug, got hundreds of them to choose from.

Pioneerguy600

Got a picture of this plastic plug?

I guess I'm at the point in the rebuild where I can get tank handle back on and start with a lot of the rebuild. I'd like to borrow/buy a caliper to measure squish and get this press/vac test done before I go much farther.

Now would be a good time to replace the fuel line and filter and get some other odds and ends together.

 

[USMC0802]

Any tips for getting the fuel line to pop back into place? Any tool to use?

 

[oscar4883]

I believe that line installs from the top. Lube it with some mix and fish it through. Hook it with hemostats towards the top and try to get one edge seated. Pull it through while working the top into the hole. A safed pair of hemostats are nice but regular ones will do. I use Gorilla brand duct tape to seal the intake for testing. Works well with vac but not the greatest with pressure. Or install the tank and slide a piece of inner tube over the carb studs. Then put the metal ring that goes around the manifold on and use nuts as spacers until you can get the carb nuts on.

 

[USMC0802]

I believe that line installs from the top. Lube it with some mix and fish it through. Hook it with hemostats towards the top and try to get one edge seated. Pull it through while working the top into the hole. A safed pair of hemostats are nice but regular ones will do. I use Gorilla brand duct tape to seal the intake for testing. Works well with vac but not the greatest with pressure. Or install the tank and slide a piece of inner tube over the carb studs. Then put the metal ring that goes around the manifold on and use nuts as spacers until you can get the carb nuts on.

I'll have to pick up a pair of the hemostats and give them a try. I was trying to install from the top, but it just wouldn't go. I tried a lube, but I'll give mix a try and hopefully that works better.

I wasn't going to mess with putting the tank back at least with the intake boot and what not until I get squish and the gasket taken care of.

I'll have to find a local place to get a caliper to measure the solder.

I'd love to have this thing back together by next weekend.

 

[oscar4883]

Whereabouts in PA are you? Make sure you check that squish in a few places to ensure its even. Also double check to make sure you have the correct fuel line. You may have to put some pressure on it to get it through. Needle nose pliers may get in there but hemostats will let you pull on the line towards the top.

 

[USMC0802]

Whereabouts in PA are you? Make sure you check that squish in a few places to ensure its even. Also double check to make sure you have the correct fuel line. You may have to put some pressure on it to get it through. Needle nose pliers may get in there but hemostats will let you pull on the line towards the top.

Lancaster County. You?

Someone, I was thinking it was you, posted a how-to on measuring squish here:
http://arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=2453456&postcount=182

Yep, it was your post. I pulled the picture up on my phone at RadioShack to figure out which solder to get. That was quite helpful.

Fuel line is from Bailey's for the 044.

 

[oscar4883]

Monroe County up in the Poconos. Maybe the aftermarket fuel line has a slightly different dimension? To bad your not a little closer I could give you a hand. You will be happy with this saw when its all said and done. That clutch side seal is the hardest part. Smooth sailing from here on out.

 

[atpchas]

Anyone have a picture of how they seal the intake port? I'm using a hose clamp and inner tube from a bike tire. Hose clamp is 1/2". I hear the pressure leaking out there. Maybe I need to get some smaller thickness hose clamps. The clamp that holds the intake boot won't open far enough to get over the mount with the bike tube over it.

I'm going to try again with a smaller piece of rubber since it seems to be doubling over when tightened down.

I never had much luck with the hose clamp approach. If you have some large c-clamps, you might try one with a small piece of metal to spread out the pressure on the rubber sealing the port. For a pic, see
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=2143465&highlight=c-clamp#post2143465

Charlie

 

[USMC0802]

I never had much luck with the hose clamp approach. If you have some large c-clamps, you might try one with a small piece of metal to spread out the pressure on the rubber sealing the port. For a pic, see
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=2143465&highlight=c-clamp#post2143465

Charlie

I have a 6" c-clamp I used to press a locked up brake caliper piston back in to replace it. That should be big enough. I'll have to play around with that this evening and see what happens.