buck futter said:
Hey freak,
I have a couple of Q's
being that you have some good chaing examples have you made any progress with you filing, maybe you could provide us with some beginner do's and don't's.
I think it is interesting about the chain jumping, my sideline guess would be that there is a problem with the splines for the rim sprocket, let us know what you come up with.
you say that you have a 372 with gypo numbers and one with your numbers, are they greatly different? do they perform close to the same?
In some other threads you have talked about messing with a 51 barrel that was a 45 mm with closed transfers, I've looked a quite a few from different years but they all seem to be open ported. Do you know what years or variant the closed port variants were produced? Would you throw up some vid's of those saws?
You have one of the newest hottest saws on the market but we haven't seen much about the 5100, is that going to be the secret weapon?
You haven't been here long but you have made some significant contributions from the aspect of guys like me that want a strong saw just for the fun of it.
Nice work!
One more question I think I may already know the answer......302 or 281
Buck
Buck, Thanks for the questions. I'll try to answer them, but not particularly in any order...
I prefer the 302 or 289!
The 5100 is bone stock. I haven't even modded the muffler yet. I don't plan on it for a while, it is one of the main saws I use on a regular basis and have heard horror stories about modding them. I will play with it, when I have more time and it has lots of hours on it.
My 372 is a whole lot differant than the Gypo 372. The Gypo #'s came from Ken Dunn, (is what I've heard anyways) and is a woods saw. It runs really good as a work saw. But My gypo 372 isn't a real Gypo 372, until I clean out the lower side of the transfers. Mine started life as the Gypo #'s, and I modded it more and more, testing each time. I got it pretty bad azz, then lost it all when I raised the transfers too high. It was really fast in small wood, but lacked the torque in bigger wood and long bars. It was real peaky. Right now it is back to stock, but I would like to put my jug back on and try it with the pipe. It could also be fixed by machining the jug down to get the transfers back down. I just haven't had time to mess with it lately. Spring has been pretty slow at work, that is why I had time to play with them. We are picking up quite a bit and I don't know how much time I'm going to have playing with them.
I have a 45mm 51 cylinder on the work bench that I got from my husky dealer. It was in the used saw section, so I honestly don't know what year they came from. I haven't played with them much since I got into the 365/372 mods. Basically, I have too many saws and too little time. I will try to get you the part numbers, but it will be awhile before I put the 51 back together. Right now, I need a piston for it.
I think the chain jumping is from the sprocket tip. The chain junps on the top side of the bar, right before the tip. Of all the bars I've tried, it only did it on 16" bars with an 8T rim. I think the tip is getting hung up a little, and being that they were all brand new bars, they weren't worn enough. The piped saw does not do it on my normal 20" woods bar. The oregons were horrible, and the Windsor that I have on it now is tolerable. I think the bars just need some "break in" time on them. Of coarse, this is just my thoughts, it could be something else. I thought it may have been a clutch side crank bearing, but it seems to check out ok, and doesn't do it with a longer bar.....
I'm no chain expert, but have picked up quite a bit from my round filing days. There is a chain on H.S that I have pics of that cut pretty fast (for a work chain) but didn't have the right angles to keep a duarable edge. I can help with pictures and whatnot, but I am still very green to this. I am probably not the best guy in the world to be asking for help. lol. I would recommend buying a bunch of chisel bit files and a couple junk chains and have at it. Remember, when you square file, you go from the outside to inside with the file stroke, opposite of round filing. Make sure the chains are clean, as dirty chains will kill a file quick. I use a pressure washer at work to clean the gunk off of them before starting. If doing the filing on a saw, the chain has to be extremely tight, otherwise you will get chatter and damage the file. Light is your friend. It is very diffcult for me to see the working corner with normal shop lights. I use a bunch of drop lights around me when I file to get the most light and less shadow. Don't run the file backwards. This sounds stupid, but I have ruined a bunch of files trying to "keep the line" and not removing the file and starting the new stoke over. I have tried the chisel bit (double bevel) files, and the triangular one. I can't seem to get the triangle ones to do the trick, but haven't used them much.
Sorry for the novel and sequel, lol. Feel free to ask anymore questions, or need more info on the original questions. I am not expert, just a guy trying to learn a few things and show people a couple things along the way.
-Steve
