Hand file vs grinding

[Marley5]

I'm a look & see sharpener while sharpening chain.
The 2 in 1 one is a blind man's tool and overpriced.
Let me at the cutters and then I'll deal with rakers.

 

[Black_dog106]

Going to throw another rock in the gears.
I take the flat file out of the 2 'n 1 file guide when used on the job. The rakers were always to low when filing with 2 'n 1 file. I am sure I'm filing wrong!!
I file rakers at home with progressive gauge when time is more convenient.

 

[JR Hill]

I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.

 

[Del_]

I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.

I like how you think.

I like a saw that needs neither lifting or pushing but that idea situation almost never exist.

 

[JR Hill]

Chain. Fresh it is hell on wheels. 15 minutes later not so much but I continue on. A bit later when I have to push its time to resharpen or change out. Sure I could keep going. But if I take 15 minutes and I touch up the chain or change it out I am way ahead for the afternoon.

And with a sharp chain I am much safer than pushing.

My gosh, do I even have to say this?

 

[HumBurner]

Grinder can be set for and operator can use light touch, but any bar mounted file guide jig system (such as Granberg or Oregon) that give 100% consistent angle/ depth/ cutter length is as good as bench vs FREE-HAND. Any system is only as good/ bad as the operator. The newer 2N1 that files cutter/ depth at same time seems negate some errors, but still depends on consistent pressure and # of strokes.

I wouldn't say the Granberg offers 100%. If the rail gets dirty and/or isn't greased well, it can alter the stroke. As well, when the bushings wear out, it can also alter the stroke.

The amount and direction(s) of pressure applied can also alter the stroke.

 

[firekindler]

I wouldn't say the Granberg offers 100%. If the rail gets dirty and/or isn't greased well, it can alter the stroke. As well, when the bushings wear out, it can also alter the stroke.

The amount and direction(s) of pressure applied can also alter the stroke.

I use never-seize on the rod. And the bushings are cheap to replace.

 

[Marky Mark]

One needs to learn how to hand file before you can even set up a stone on a grinder. Ya think
I prefer the 60 second tickle.

 

[JR Hill]

The wife had to calm me down last night. As we were watching one of those Alaska frontier reality shows with the tribal guy who goes out with his two little kids. He complained his saw wasn't cutting very good so he finds his file and gets to work. So they film him filing the chain and its at about 90d to the bar. He finishes filing and starts cutting and "Oh, it cuts a LOT better now!" Bwahh-hahhh.

 

[Bluefish]

Some scary saw activity on those crazy shows.

 

[Timdogtrainer]

At least I’m not that bad!

 

[LawrenceK]

I've been hand filing for 30 years and still can't quite get away from ending up with teeth a bit shorter on one side after 3 or 4 full sharpenings. Have heard different explanations for it, but I guess it comes down to simple differences in how we approach the teeth with the file from one side to the other. Nevertheless, hand sharpening has always worked better as far as being more in tune with how much metal you're taking off, getting the proper shape and angle, and manipulating the process in general. Lately, I've been doing the "Get the gullet" method with a nice C and the results are fantastic. It's a learning process to go the hand filing route, but I wouldn't sharpen any other way. You'll never get perfection with the hand file, but you don't need it. If your rakers are kept where they should be, and you keep your angle approximately correct, getting a good cut isn't that difficult. I'm happy when I'm throwing chips.

 

[Fordiesel69]

I am no expert at all, but I get mine ground for 5 bucks a piece when they are trashed and then hand file from then on to keep them in spec. I never have had a mentour check my filing but I think I do OK.

I did it pretty much like buckin Billy rays videos but after watching his I have become more agressive now to a point where I get that little sliver he showed in his video. I think that minor change is getting me a better cut at the expense of less chain life as I am taking more off.

 

[Billhook]

Filing & Grinding are Overrated,

I just buy a new chain when one dulls...


Mad3400

If it takes an average of half an hour to sharpen a 20 inch bar with a hand file and the arborist is being paid say $25 per hour, not sure how good quality chain would cost but there must be a point somewhere if you are employing someone where it would be cheaper to buy him a new chain rather than pay him to sharpen one as well as losing his productivity in that time

 

[NSEric]

If it takes an average of half an hour to sharpen a 20 inch bar with a hand file and the arborist is being paid say $25 per hour, not sure how good quality chain would cost but there must be a point somewhere if you are employing someone where it would be cheaper to buy him a new chain rather than pay him to sharpen one as well as losing his productivity in that time

That's why a lot of people have a grinder and spare chains.
You swap on a new chain while on the job and have one guy sharpen chains in your down time between jobs. You get more done per day cutting this way.