Hey Guys I was just stirring the pot! (372 best saw ever)

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RiverRat2 said:
STIHL THE SAME, Caught Up with Her Yesterday, Moving game to game, No one standing in her way""""

Remove the base gasket groove the bottom of the cylinder deck ,Dirko sealant Yeah I got ya,,,,check the Squish,,,,,, how do you mark the targeted material removal area and how do you keep the port corridor floors & roofs uniform??? also do you slick/polish the exhaust ports and leave the intake rough just OPENED up?????? :hmm3grin2orange:

You got the removal of the base gasket down it sounds like. I widen my exhaust, take skiff off the top and then check BDC (piston - exhaust port), the make any adjustments from there. Then do my intake, yes I leave it rough. I use a wood rasp on both (after chrome is removed) I do polish the exhaust port. I make a sand paper holder with a wooden dowel (cut down the middle) and use it with a drill and Marvel Mystery Oil to finish the polishing.
I mark all of my potential mistakes (LOL) with a permanent marker inside the walls of the jug.
BTW, I learned all I know from Dean at WHS.
 
cruiser said:
So it's a no-go if it's new huh?

I was hoping to have that sickening power that you were talking about.

This thing is still fresh, so why do you stay away from heavy mods? And were those mods within the realm of woods saw reliability?

Thanks Stang

Not Stang, but your durabilty and realiabity will be there (if done right). This is nothing more than a basic woods mod.
 
yes I agree Dean has taught me a few trick over the phone that has worked out pretty good. I just finished my 2nd 066 and modded the muffler per his suggestions and it was a noticable power increase,,,,, over my other 066 with stock exhaust,,, Just kind of chicken to chop up a perfectly good cylinder just yet!!!!!
 
Thanks Tree and Rat.

I think I'll go for it if all I have to lose is my warranty!

What's the best way to get familiar with the process? I don't want to waste your guys time in teaching me if there's a book or something out there.
 
RiverRat2 said:
yes I agree Dean has taught me a few trick over the phone that has worked out pretty good. I just finished my 2nd 066 and modded the muffler per his suggestions and it was a noticable power increase,,,,, over my other 066 with stock exhaust,,, Just kind of chicken to chop up a perfectly good cylinder just yet!!!!!

I spent four days up there with him. I did four of my saws (all were previously modded - one I built up there)
Got home and fried two in the same day. I caught the rings on both saws (did not bevel enough). Tough lesson, but I have parts galore - and Bailey's has cheap aftermarket kits.
All is fixed and my saws rip.
On a side note, for those who don't know Dean, you are missing out. His knowledge and his patience to work with you over the phone or online is uncharacteristic in this day and age.
 
oldsaw said:
Sorry, the 066 is "king" do a search for the thread that wouldn't die....what, you didn't vote for it? You don't vote for Kings!!! Besides, it must be King, it doesn't have sheet all over it!!!

Mark
..and the King (660) is married to the Queen (372xp), and the Prince (441) became a Stihl with lots of Husky features - I guess that adds up.....

:buttkick: :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl: :givebeer:
 
SawTroll said:
..and the King (660) is married to the Queen (372xp), and the Prince (441) became a Stihl with lots of Husky features - I guess that adds up.....

:buttkick: :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl: :givebeer:

SawTroll=Chainsaw Geneticist

You may have something here.

Mark
 
cruiser said:
I think I'll go for it if all I have to lose is my warranty!

What's the best way to get familiar with the process? I don't want to waste your guys time in teaching me if there's a book or something out there.


You also have the risk of screwing up the cylinder and piston. Those are not cheap, at about 300 bucks a pop. If you have never modded a saw, you need to take extreme caution chamfering the ports, cleaning everything before assembly, etc.


You can widen the ports also, as Tree said. Widening the ports will give it more torque. The 1mm figures are a tried and true set of numbers for that saw, if you go more either way, you can kill the powerband if you do not know what you are doing. When widening the ports, leave a mm or so on each side on the skirt. If you go too wide, it will run like crap, and be more likely to catch a ring

I hate to see a brand new 372 get ruined because a couple of us said it is easy. It is, if you have played with them before..

Now that the warnings are out on the table

I'll try to post some pics of the lower transfers I have modded later on tonight or tomorrow. I think Manual made a thread on Hotsaws if it is still there. It was a very good writeup. Open them up to the gasket line. You can thin the divider to get more volume thru it, just try to keep the factory angles in there. You will know what I'm talking about when you tear it apart.


If I were you, I would buy a BB kit from baileys arnd play with that one, but I have not had one of those in my hand to measure port timing, so I don't know if the 1mm numbers in that will make a good work saw, it should, but you never know with aftermarket parts....They are only a 100 bucks and it would allow you to keep you stock piston and cylinder for future use, or resale incase you decide down the road.

Use a quality sealant for the base gasket, chamfer the ports so you don't hook a ring, and clean everything extremely well
 

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