Had a chance to try this one yet? I am curious how close it is to the Oregon model:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/#post-5474287
Philbert
HF Chain Grinder Thread
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/#post-5474287
Philbert
Not done any more than look in the box.
My ‘Nick the Grinder’ just keeps going like the Energizer Bunny.
Getting dog eared tho.
Overdue for a trip to the laundry tub. [emoji13]
My ‘Nick the Grinder’ just keeps going like the Energizer Bunny.
Getting dog eared tho.
Overdue for a trip to the laundry tub. [emoji13]
Ran across a related thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/improving-the-harbor-freight-chain-grinder.298677/
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/improving-the-harbor-freight-chain-grinder.298677/
Philbert
A better reference for the 'Northern Tool' clone grinder than the one posted on the first page:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fyi-northern-chainsaw-sharpener.39995/
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fyi-northern-chainsaw-sharpener.39995/
Philbert
I have a HF newer style grinder.
I cant really ***** about it, I shimmed the clamp for the chain (where you sharpen the chain) with a sliver of mud flap.....It doesnt move the chain anymore...rock solid.
My question is....... these wheels any good? http://sharpchain.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47
I Have the original one in it....it cuts ok.....really not that bad....but Im wondering if its worth putting a different wheel on it....
I cant really ***** about it, I shimmed the clamp for the chain (where you sharpen the chain) with a sliver of mud flap.....It doesnt move the chain anymore...rock solid.
My question is....... these wheels any good? http://sharpchain.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47
I Have the original one in it....it cuts ok.....really not that bad....but Im wondering if its worth putting a different wheel on it....
TOTAL was a brand name for Tilton Equipment, who had products made to their specs, but has been out of business for several years now. I had good experience with their wheels, so those could be a good deal if still available.
Note that some of these grinders have a 7/8" arbor / wheel ID, and some have 22mm: they are close, but not the same. To confuse things, some say that they are 7/8" and are really 22mm, so sometimes you have to test fit to see if they actually fit your grinder. Let us know if you try them?
Philbert
Note that some of these grinders have a 7/8" arbor / wheel ID, and some have 22mm: they are close, but not the same. To confuse things, some say that they are 7/8" and are really 22mm, so sometimes you have to test fit to see if they actually fit your grinder. Let us know if you try them?
Philbert
I had to cut a strip of sheet copper to curl into a shim to make a loose 7/8” bore fit mine.
[emoji2959]
[emoji2959]
I tried a thin strip of aluminum duct sealing tape to build up one arbor. But it does not help if the ID is too small.
Best to find which fit.
Philbert
Best to find which fit.
Philbert
Not certain which set up you are referring to. I ran the better (Italian wheel) on the Oregon 310-120 'mini' grinder, as a replacement for the cheap (Chinese) wheel that was sent with the wrong ID. That was the root of my 'epiphany' on grinding wheel quality. Ironic that some $27 grinders need a $26 wheel to work correctly!
Post #188
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/page-10#post-5489655
I did not try it on on the HF models. On one hand, I can only imagine that they would improve performance over the very fine, OEM wheels provided. But the small motors on the cheaper grinders still might not have the power to drive them appropriately.
Philbert
I bought Oregon OR4125-316A Grinding Wheel 3/16 Inch
I just used saw yesterday, sharpened with original HF wheel....and did rakers....man it cuts Very Well.
I dont understand why the HF grinder has so much hate.
It gives a flat cut surface, I dont know if thats considered a square cut, but it cuts great. Yea, the original wheel doesnt give the smoothest finish. I will try the oregon wheel.
I also dont see why a bigger motor is needed. Its just kissing the teeth, unless your chain is really mangled.....but even so, mine doesnt have a issue. I dont try to lug it down though.
The smaller saw I used, echo cs370 16" uses a rounded tooth oregon chain.
My echo cs590 uses a 20" square tooth chain. That sucker really cuts......and yes the chains arent perfect when new.
I am still learning about chains. As simple as it appears, its pretty technical if you want to cut better and easier.
I just used saw yesterday, sharpened with original HF wheel....and did rakers....man it cuts Very Well.
I dont understand why the HF grinder has so much hate.
It gives a flat cut surface, I dont know if thats considered a square cut, but it cuts great. Yea, the original wheel doesnt give the smoothest finish. I will try the oregon wheel.
I also dont see why a bigger motor is needed. Its just kissing the teeth, unless your chain is really mangled.....but even so, mine doesnt have a issue. I dont try to lug it down though.
The smaller saw I used, echo cs370 16" uses a rounded tooth oregon chain.
My echo cs590 uses a 20" square tooth chain. That sucker really cuts......and yes the chains arent perfect when new.
I am still learning about chains. As simple as it appears, its pretty technical if you want to cut better and easier.
“
Because it is poorly made, has limited angle accommodation, a cheap grinding wheel, and little power. It’s main attraction is it’s cheap price.
If you are just touching up cutters with standard, default angles, it can work, once you get all of the wobbling and shimming out of it. As noted in the thread, there are other ‘basic’ ‘mini-grinders’ that I feel performed better for this use. I will be interested to hear how your HF works with the Oregon wheel.
Other folks use grinders for additional tasks: reshaping cutters to different angles; grinding back damaged cutters, sharpening large volumes of chains; etc. For these applications the HF grinder does not compare. So, some of it depends on your expectations and intended uses.
Philbert
Because it is poorly made, has limited angle accommodation, a cheap grinding wheel, and little power. It’s main attraction is it’s cheap price.
If you are just touching up cutters with standard, default angles, it can work, once you get all of the wobbling and shimming out of it. As noted in the thread, there are other ‘basic’ ‘mini-grinders’ that I feel performed better for this use. I will be interested to hear how your HF works with the Oregon wheel.
Other folks use grinders for additional tasks: reshaping cutters to different angles; grinding back damaged cutters, sharpening large volumes of chains; etc. For these applications the HF grinder does not compare. So, some of it depends on your expectations and intended uses.
Philbert
It is not a “square cut“. That requires a totally different grinder. You want to use the profiled, rounded edge of the wheel, not the side, to get a profile similar to that of using a file.
Depends on the wheel that you are using, and how much metal you are trying to remove. some of this depends on the size / pitch of the chain that you are sharpening.
Philbert
"Square' filing / grinding is a separate discussion, beyond this thread. There are several threads here on A.S. that go into it (Google 'arboristsite square filed chain' to find some). It requires special files, or special grinders ($1,000 !!!), and takes a bit more skill to master than conventional, round filing.
Here is some basic information on it, which may help you understand the difference:
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htmhttp://www.madsens1.com/bnc_chisel_qna.htmhttp://www.madsens1.com/bnc_filing_cb.htm
Philbert
Madsens is a great source for information, but I'll add my own comments since I use square (exclusively) on the East coast in hardwoods.
1) IMO, square file chain will hold up as well as full chisel round file if you keep the angles modest (45, 45 +45). On the West coast they often go with steeper angles.
2) Once you get the hang of it, it is not hard to hand sharpen. I leave my chains on the saw, and can sharpen with square file just as fast as with round file. When you get used to it, you will feel the file "fall into place". Keeping the corner of the file in the corner of the tooth, stroking straight, and maintaining proper angles are all important. It takes some time to adapt.
3) What I like about square file is it is good for everything: cross cutting, noodling or milling square file does it all well.
This is my favorite reference for understanding square file (the file is really 6 sided):
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cb_angles.htm
1) IMO, square file chain will hold up as well as full chisel round file if you keep the angles modest (45, 45 +45). On the West coast they often go with steeper angles.
2) Once you get the hang of it, it is not hard to hand sharpen. I leave my chains on the saw, and can sharpen with square file just as fast as with round file. When you get used to it, you will feel the file "fall into place". Keeping the corner of the file in the corner of the tooth, stroking straight, and maintaining proper angles are all important. It takes some time to adapt.
3) What I like about square file is it is good for everything: cross cutting, noodling or milling square file does it all well.
This is my favorite reference for understanding square file (the file is really 6 sided):
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cb_angles.htm
No challenge Mike, but the focus of this thread is the Harbor Freight style, $30 grinders, and a guy stating that he is just learning about chains. Can he ‘square grind’ on a HF grinder?
Philbert
Retired my ‘Nick the Grinder’ after nine years of service. He was a freebie to begin with and developed random endplay in the motor bearings.
I did salvage his chain vice. [emoji6]
We moved on to a Forester branded grinder of the same ilk. Also a freebie. Same but a touch different.
I’m all set as I also have a Chicago Electric (another freebie) as backup. It’s the bicycle brake/clamp model hence the salvage of Nick’s chain vice. [emoji106]
One thing is certainly true, they are not for salvaging mangled cutters. But with patients are serviceable.
I did salvage his chain vice. [emoji6]
We moved on to a Forester branded grinder of the same ilk. Also a freebie. Same but a touch different.
I’m all set as I also have a Chicago Electric (another freebie) as backup. It’s the bicycle brake/clamp model hence the salvage of Nick’s chain vice. [emoji106]
One thing is certainly true, they are not for salvaging mangled cutters. But with patients are serviceable.
