Homelite Chainsaws

[kentuckydiesel]

Super 1050 on the way!!!

Hey,

Havent been on here in a while but have been regularly scouring E-bay, Craigslist, etc. looking for a 100+cc big brother to my little EZ-Automatic.

I finally snagged a clean looking Super 1050 off Ebay last friday night and I'm anxious to get started on it. It does have a cracked air box, but I plan to tig weld that, so shouldn't be any problem. :wink2: I do have some questions which I haven't been able to pin down through my searching though.

This saw is a 10139A, and going by the serial number (hm2070067) it appears it was made in 1991. :msp_ohmy:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqUOKiEE3Dp44melBN1)uBDvlQ~~0_12.JPG

Hoping someone on here can help me with these questions:

1) Going to need a clutch assembly, sprocket, clutch/bar cover, and a muffler cover. What other models/years can I get these parts from? (would gladly use model-incorrect parts, especially if they are upgrades) ....Is it possible to install a larger sprocket to increase chain speed?

2)Also need a bar. I think I've figured out that any C-series or XP-series bar will work...is this correct? Wanting something in 36" or so, hopefully without shelling out 3 arms and 8 legs...they seem to be expensive.

3)Saw has the SDC carb on it. I keep reading/hearing that it was the "upgraded carb", but then I will see someone wanting to swap their SDC out...talking about it like it's junk. What's the deal here?

4)This being such a "late model" saw, does it have any sort of ignition or other upgrades from the previous years/models? Would think it would have an electronic ignition like the 750 had back in the 70s-80s, but I can't find any references to later model changes.

5)Anyone have any performance tips? I've been thinking about doing a mild port/polish...want to get the best consistant power I can without sacrificing reliability. This is going to be my heavy cutting saw, and I have alot of it to do in the near future.
(BTW, I know about the size/weight of the saw but for my size, 25lbs of saw is really not that much.)

Thanks!

-Phillip

 

[lesorubcheek]

Congrats on the 1050... Here's a few answers....


1) Going to need a clutch assembly, sprocket, clutch/bar cover, and a muffler cover. What other models/years can I get these parts from? (would gladly use model-incorrect parts, especially if they are upgrades) ....Is it possible to install a larger sprocket to increase chain speed?

Clutches may be 5/8 or 3/4. 5/8 shoes are the same as on a 925. 3/4 shoes are the same as the 6 shoe 750. Not sure about spider interchange.

2)Also need a bar. I think I've figured out that any C-series or XP-series bar will work...is this correct? Wanting something in 36" or so, hopefully without shelling out 3 arms and 8 legs...they seem to be expensive.

Yes, same mount as C series. You can adapt other bars with some work. Main thing is the tail needs to be thick enough to keep the chain from scrubbing.

3)Saw has the SDC carb on it. I keep reading/hearing that it was the "upgraded carb", but then I will see someone wanting to swap their SDC out...talking about it like it's junk. What's the deal here?

I like my 1050s with SDCs just fine. If they're right, they'll work fine.

4)This being such a "late model" saw, does it have any sort of ignition or other upgrades from the previous years/models? Would think it would have an electronic ignition like the 750 had back in the 70s-80s, but I can't find any references to later model changes.

Nope, stock anyways, they all came with the same points/condenser setup.

5)Anyone have any performance tips? I've been thinking about doing a mild port/polish...want to get the best consistant power I can without sacrificing reliability. This is going to be my heavy cutting saw, and I have alot of it to do in the near future.
(BTW, I know about the size/weight of the saw but for my size, 25lbs of saw is really not that much.)

Sorry, no tips here. They run pretty good without any mods, but I ain't a big hot rodder, so can't really comment.

Dan

 

[watsonr]

Porting/polishing not sure about, but these have a reed valve intake.

 

[cbfarmall]

Fuel line is broken and it looks to be missing something from the back, I think? just by looking at the holes in the tank/case, but it's a guess until I dig into the IPL and manual.

Nothing missing back there. Judging from the location of the on/off switch (on the flywheel cover) and the top cover, you have a 900D with a replacement muffler. The rear handle has a mounting boss for the switch so you can flick it on/off with your thumb. Correct for the later 900-series, that would have been a replacement part for all these saws. Can't tell if you have a air cleaner or not. I can see clear thru the screen in one picture and that may mean you have the earlier style filter, correct for the saw if not the replacement handle.

Chris B.

 

[watsonr]

thanks Chris, I've been wrapped up with work but plan to look tonight at the IPL and manual.

 

[Chris J.]

Yes, I'm asking a question that has been asked & answered, but since the search function isn't working...........

What are y'alls thoughts on the C-72?

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Thanks for the answers! Got a few more questions on the Super 1050 if y'all don't mind.

Clutches may be 5/8 or 3/4. 5/8 shoes are the same as on a 925. 3/4 shoes are the same as the 6 shoe 750. Not sure about spider interchange.

Are the 3/4" shoes a better performing option?

Nope, stock anyways, they all came with the same points/condenser setup.

Are the points/condenser a big limiting factor in top rpm? I believe the Super 1050 actually had the shortest stroke of any 100cc+ Homelite, so I would think it would be a decent saw to get more revs from...so long as the ignition can handle it.

Porting/polishing not sure about, but these have a reed valve intake.

This brings up another question...I noticed that the 1050 has a pyramid 4 reed setup where 750, 2100, 3100, etc. have 6 reed setups. Any interchangability and/or performance to be gained here?

Thanks,

Phillip

 

[old cookie]

I just got a 900g it has a muffler that looks just like yours. I thought somthing was missing . It isnt like the other mufflers i have seen. How much and what weiight oil in geardrive.I am new here thanks i really like these big homelites.

 

[Ambull]

Thanks for the answers! Got a few more questions on the Super 1050 if y'all don't mind.



Are the 3/4" shoes a better performing option?





Are the points/condenser a big limiting factor in top rpm? I believe the Super 1050 actually had the shortest stroke of any 100cc+ Homelite, so I would think it would be a decent saw to get more revs from...so long as the ignition can handle it.




This brings up another question...I noticed that the 1050 has a pyramid 4 reed setup where 750, 2100, 3100, etc. have 6 reed setups. Any interchangability and/or performance to be gained here?

Thanks,

Phillip

I am not sure about the clutch, but on a vintage saw, if it picks up at the corrrect RPM and holds, it is good enough.

Points and condenser work fine, but you can always replace them with a chip. I believe that the chip advances the spark a degree or two, so it should improve top end performance.

It is all about surface area. If the 6 reed setups have more surface area, they should have higher performance. Usually the carb is more of a limiting factor than the reeds. BTW the 750 is piston ported, and has no reeds.

 

[rarefish383]

K-diesel, I have 2 Super 1050's my dad bought new in the early 70's and they both have 5/8 clutches, they put in 20+ years of commercial service, and I've been doggin on them ever since with no problems. I use one of them for milling and that's tough on a saw, and it just keeps on pullin. I wouldn't try to get more R's out of it. I have 2 and 3 foot bars and when they are sharp the biggest problem is holding up on the saw so it doesn't drop through the cut and hit the ground. You won't have to worry much about not having enough power with those shorter bars. I put a NOVA II electronic ignition in my milling saw and it runs great. I think the NOVA changed the timing a little and the saw seems to kick back more and harder than it used to. I used to be able to drop start it, but not anymore. I put one foot through the handle with the trigger locked and the other foot on top of the engine. When that thing kicks back it will rip all of your fingers off. I don't know why Homelite didn't put a compression realese on the 1050? If I remember correctly, even our little Super EZ's had releases on them. Good luck with your 1050, Joe.

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Points and condenser work fine, but you can always replace them with a chip. I believe that the chip advances the spark a degree or two, so it should improve top end performance.

Chip sounds like a good option...Where can I get one that will work?

It is all about surface area. If the 6 reed setups have more surface area, they should have higher performance. Usually the carb is more of a limiting factor than the reeds. BTW the 750 is piston ported, and has no reeds.

Sorry, forgot about the 750's piston ported-ness...and I had it written down right in front of me. So are intake runners the same size on these saws where a guy might swap reed setups and/or carbs?

Thanks,
Phillip

 

[RandyMac]

I think any of the C/XP/2100 type intakes will bolt on.

 

[67L36Driver]

XL-101 crank ball bearing?

This crank has a New Departure 3203AK ball bearing with snap ring groove. At first blush it feels worn out with a bit of play but after thinking about it I wonder if maybe it is supposed to have extra ball/race clearance for the high rpm of a saw engine? Ball count seems low (8) also.

I tried Google but search results made no sense.

I don't have access to a bearing interchange manual anymore.

 

[Chris J.]

Yes, I'm asking a question that has been asked & answered, but since the search function isn't working...........

What are y'alls thoughts on the C-72?

Anyone?

 

[lesorubcheek]

I think any of the C/XP/2100 type intakes will bolt on.

C and XP 4 petals, yes, but the 6 petal reed cage needs a different boss to attach The rear handle/carb chamber and the crankcase where the opening is for reeds are different on the 2000/2100/3100. Never tried to fit a 6 petal in a 1050 opening, but don't think it'll go without some machining.

Dan

 

[lesorubcheek]

Anyone?

Chris, ain't got a C-72 but do have a few C-91s which are close. They are about the easiest saw in the world to work on and spare parts are easy enough to find. Built like a tank too. Negatives are they are heavy and no auto oiler, unless you can find one of the mega-rare side oiler attachments.

Dan

 

[Ambull]

Chip sounds like a good option...Where can I get one that will work?



Sorry, forgot about the 750's piston ported-ness...and I had it written down right in front of me. So are intake runners the same size on these saws where a guy might swap reed setups and/or carbs?

Thanks,
Phillip

Chainsawr sells an ignition chip for $25. I think I have the same one on one of my Mac's and it works well. There are plenty of other places to buy these.

Chainsawr mega fire II universal ignition module conversion chip for replacement of points and condenser new replaces pn 21119-2161 (box S-0)

To be honest I am not sure of the compatibility of intake and carb setups. I have always been a fan of the tried and true Walbro SDC and Tillotson HL. They bring plenty of power, super easy to rebuild, parts readily available, etc.

 

[Eccentric]

I think any of the C/XP/2100 type intakes will bolt on.

C and XP 4 petals, yes, but the 6 petal reed cage needs a different boss to attach The rear handle/carb chamber and the crankcase where the opening is for reeds are different on the 2000/2100/3100. Never tried to fit a 6 petal in a 1050 opening, but don't think it'll go without some machining.

Dan

You're right Dan. The crankcase and the carb box are specific to the six petal reed 2000/2100/3100G saws. These youngest/biggest brothers of the C-Series and XP-Series saws have the most unique parts.

Anyone?

Chris, ain't got a C-72 but do have a few C-91s which are close. They are about the easiest saw in the world to work on and spare parts are easy enough to find. Built like a tank too. Negatives are they are heavy and no auto oiler, unless you can find one of the mega-rare side oiler attachments.

Dan

You said it Dan. Great saws. Easy to work on. Tough. Lotsa grunt. HEAVY. Not high revvers. Most parts interchange between all of the C-Series (sometimes as complete assemblies, such as starter systems) and much of the XP series.

 

[redsqwrl]

Yes, I'm asking a question that has been asked & answered, but since the search function isn't working...........

What are y'alls thoughts on the C-72?

What do you intend to do with it?

I have Two c-7(x) saws I like them both, but they get passed over for play time as... for the over all size the 1050 and Super 1050 sitting right next to it seem to shout louder. (play with me)

Looking at you list of saws I would say that you would really enjoy a c-72's bark and they have a very nice pull down in a cut. (grunt) they were the saw that started my homelite hoarding. I got one from my father with a big bar. that got me some blocking work. then I found out htey make a bigger saw in the same frame and I was off to the farmers market looking for a C-9 then 1050 ect......

 

[Chris J.]

Re thoughts on the C-72...........

Chris, ain't got a C-72 but do have a few C-91s which are close. They are about the easiest saw in the world to work on and spare parts are easy enough to find. Built like a tank too. Negatives are they are heavy and no auto oiler, unless you can find one of the mega-rare side oiler attachments.

Dan

...
You said it Dan. Great saws. Easy to work on. Tough. Lotsa grunt. HEAVY. Not high revvers. Most parts interchange between all of the C-Series (sometimes as complete assemblies, such as starter systems) and much of the XP series.

What do you intend to do with it?

I have Two c-7(x) saws I like them both, but they get passed over for play time as... for the over all size the 1050 and Super 1050 sitting right next to it seem to shout louder. (play with me)

Looking at you list of saws I would say that you would really enjoy a c-72's bark and they have a very nice pull down in a cut. (grunt) they were the saw that started my homelite hoarding. I got one from my father with a big bar. that got me some blocking work. then I found out htey make a bigger saw in the same frame and I was off to the farmers market looking for a C-9 then 1050 ect......

I'm not sure what I would do with it. This is what got my attention, a Homelite C-72 & a Skil 1616, both for $20.00.

Two non working chain saws. 16" and 22"