Thanks Ambull and yes it will need a new duckbill It leaks some.Found boots and will have to get an answer if to fix.Thanks again.David
That's the same saw he's been trying to sell for awhile. Wants a lot of money for it.
I thought so too, it is clean though.
Can someone tell me the stock rpm's for the XL923 and SXL925?
Please DO NOT tune those XL923 and XL925 saws to peak RPM out of the cut like you would with a modern saw. This has been discussed over and over. Tune them so the burble or 'four stroke' at WOT out of the cut, but clean up in the cut. PM Deprime (member here) and ask him to send you a copy of the Homelite Service Manual. All will be clear then.
I'll bet you that's what they've lasted so long, lower rpms and fewer toasted pistons..
Thanks man, i was planning to use a tachometer to tune them. I started adjusting the XL923 yesterday, both needles 1 - 1/4 turns out to start and warmed her up for a couple of minutes. After leaning out a little she ran fine, but if i cut aut piece of wood at WOT she starts bogging and shuts of as soon as she's out of the cut. She also cuts pretty slow now. I did rebuild the carb and put new fuel lines.Please DO NOT tune those XL923 and XL925 saws to peak RPM out of the cut like you would with a modern saw. This has been discussed over and over. Tune them so the burble or 'four stroke' at WOT out of the cut, but clean up in the cut. PM Deprime (member here) and ask him to send you a copy of the Homelite Service Manual. All will be clear then.
Who tunes saws to peak RPM's out of the cut?
I have the above saw that shows very little use, but it runs as if it has an air leak. I pressure tested it and 2 pounds was the max that I could get it pumped up to. It is leaking at the compression release.
The manual said that the only service needed for the compression release was to check for carbon build-up. I have done this and it is clean, but stills leaks. I thought about removing it and replacing it with a plug, but it does not look removable. The next possibality would be to place an rubber o-ring on the plundger. I do not know it it would stand up to the heat. Any recommendations. Thanks Tom
Is it the linkage going to the compression release or the compression release itself? I've had a few that had linkage that was kinda in a bind, just needed loosening up a bit.
It is leaking out of the orfice where the compression release plunger fits. Thanks Tom
I don't think that plunger has any metal or plastic on it or they would melt. I think it's just metal to metal. Sounds like you have either carbon around it or something's not fitting right. There might be a spring in there also to pull it tight and it might be weak or missing. I'll have to go out and look at mine to see what it looks like.
Got him together with a home made throttle rod and got set up to make a cookie on the only chunk of walnut left behind the shed. Fired up and warming up he stopped so short the clutch unscrewed itself. 4000 rpm(est.) to zero in a millisecond.
We got metal flakes in the combustion chamber and scratchs on our formerly mint cylinder wall. Got too dark to really see well in the garage so we quit.
Max Bummer. And, a summer cold to boot.
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