Homelite Chainsaws

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XL-101 Refurbish

Got him together with a home made throttle rod and got set up to make a cookie on the only chunk of walnut left behind the shed. Fired up and warming up he stopped so short the clutch unscrewed itself. 4000 rpm(est.) to zero in a millisecond.

We got metal flakes in the combustion chamber and scratchs on our formerly mint cylinder wall. Got too dark to really see well in the garage so we quit.

Max Bummer. And, a summer cold to boot.
 
Buz

I thought I'd try to get this old relic going, didn't know what all I might need to do to get this old thing going again. It took around 20 minutes to get it running like new! The only thing I put on it was a new fuel line and adjusted the carburetor. I did learn a valuable lesson about not having the spark plug wire terminal insulated, got a healthy shock when turning the saw around, taking my hand off the top bar. Man, that old saw has spark!
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That's the same saw he's been trying to sell for awhile. Wants a lot of money for it.

I thought so too, it is clean though.

I don't think so.. :cheers: :biggrinbounce2:

ESPECIALLY if it's NEW, as he says......


Randy, are you familiar with what the last MUCH more used 8800 sold for on ebay??? :msp_rolleyes:
 
Please DO NOT tune those XL923 and XL925 saws to peak RPM out of the cut like you would with a modern saw. This has been discussed over and over. Tune them so the burble or 'four stroke' at WOT out of the cut, but clean up in the cut. PM Deprime (member here) and ask him to send you a copy of the Homelite Service Manual. All will be clear then.
 
Please DO NOT tune those XL923 and XL925 saws to peak RPM out of the cut like you would with a modern saw. This has been discussed over and over. Tune them so the burble or 'four stroke' at WOT out of the cut, but clean up in the cut. PM Deprime (member here) and ask him to send you a copy of the Homelite Service Manual. All will be clear then.

I'll bet you that's what they've lasted so long, lower rpms and fewer toasted pistons..
 
I'll bet you that's what they've lasted so long, lower rpms and fewer toasted pistons..

Yep. I've seen many guys post that their old McCulloch or Homelite bogs out and doesn't have much power in the cut. They can't understand why that happens when it revs so cleanly out of the cut. They're running them too lean...
 
Homelite 250 Super ez

I have the above saw that shows very little use, but it runs as if it has an air leak. I pressure tested it and 2 pounds was the max that I could get it pumped up to. It is leaking at the compression release.
The manual said that the only service needed for the compression release was to check for carbon build-up. I have done this and it is clean, but stills leaks. I thought about removing it and replacing it with a plug, but it does not look removable. The next possibality would be to place an rubber o-ring on the plundger. I do not know it it would stand up to the heat. Any recommendations. Thanks Tom
 
Please DO NOT tune those XL923 and XL925 saws to peak RPM out of the cut like you would with a modern saw. This has been discussed over and over. Tune them so the burble or 'four stroke' at WOT out of the cut, but clean up in the cut. PM Deprime (member here) and ask him to send you a copy of the Homelite Service Manual. All will be clear then.
Thanks man, i was planning to use a tachometer to tune them. I started adjusting the XL923 yesterday, both needles 1 - 1/4 turns out to start and warmed her up for a couple of minutes. After leaning out a little she ran fine, but if i cut aut piece of wood at WOT she starts bogging and shuts of as soon as she's out of the cut. She also cuts pretty slow now. I did rebuild the carb and put new fuel lines.

I'm not verry experienced in adjusting carbs, that's why i wanted to try with a tach.
 
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supel xl auto, for 10 bucks!!

started to get serious about heating house with wood this year, massive stove in basement and sick of 500+ a month bills :rock:Picked up a super xl auto off some guy who was cleaning out garage, says been sitting in there for years, had to replace fuel line, got her to turn over and run for 2 secs, then ripped starter cord!!GRRRRRRRR... sounded like a little beast!! any ways im new to forum any advice or help about this model would be greatly appreciated, anybody got a manual in pdf??
 
I have the above saw that shows very little use, but it runs as if it has an air leak. I pressure tested it and 2 pounds was the max that I could get it pumped up to. It is leaking at the compression release.
The manual said that the only service needed for the compression release was to check for carbon build-up. I have done this and it is clean, but stills leaks. I thought about removing it and replacing it with a plug, but it does not look removable. The next possibality would be to place an rubber o-ring on the plundger. I do not know it it would stand up to the heat. Any recommendations. Thanks Tom

Is it the linkage going to the compression release or the compression release itself? I've had a few that had linkage that was kinda in a bind, just needed loosening up a bit.
 
Is it the linkage going to the compression release or the compression release itself? I've had a few that had linkage that was kinda in a bind, just needed loosening up a bit.

It is leaking out of the orfice where the compression release plunger fits. Thanks Tom
 
It is leaking out of the orfice where the compression release plunger fits. Thanks Tom

I don't think that plunger has any metal or plastic on it or they would melt. I think it's just metal to metal. Sounds like you have either carbon around it or something's not fitting right. There might be a spring in there also to pull it tight and it might be weak or missing. I'll have to go out and look at mine to see what it looks like.
 
I don't think that plunger has any metal or plastic on it or they would melt. I think it's just metal to metal. Sounds like you have either carbon around it or something's not fitting right. There might be a spring in there also to pull it tight and it might be weak or missing. I'll have to go out and look at mine to see what it looks like.

I checked for carbon and cleaned what little there was up.
The spring is mounted on top of the plunger and it is very stout. You mentioned in a previous post that it might be binding or not lineing up as it should. I will check that out. Thanks Tom
 
XL-101 Refurbish.

Got him together with a home made throttle rod and got set up to make a cookie on the only chunk of walnut left behind the shed. Fired up and warming up he stopped so short the clutch unscrewed itself. 4000 rpm(est.) to zero in a millisecond.

We got metal flakes in the combustion chamber and scratchs on our formerly mint cylinder wall. Got too dark to really see well in the garage so we quit.

Max Bummer. And, a summer cold to boot.

Lost a rod bolt. View attachment 190285

Should have used Loctite and a cheater handle on the allen wrench.
 
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