Homelite Chainsaws

[ChainsawmanXX]

Nice Jacob! I am going to town to get a deer tag, and swinging by my father in law's, bringing home his super xl 925, and a clean low hour saw!

I have 2 925's and hope to make 1 saw out of them. They are pretty rough But plan on restoring them as well maybe?

 

[Eccentric]

I was just given a 770D with a siezed P/C and the rustiest bar and chain I have ever seen. It is a roller (and yes, Aaron, a real roller, not a sprocket roller :hmm3grin2orange: ) nose so I would like to restore it.

Any tricks of the trade to bring this bar back to life?

Was hoping it would be a bar i could also use on my 909D but see the 770D is .404 rather than 7/16.

Hey Steve,
You can change that 909D to .404 pretty easily. I have a .404 spur sprocket (from a C5) you can have, or you can score an Oregon 10616 rim drive drum on feebay. As has been stated, the beauty of a roller nose (not 'sprocket roller'.....LOL) bar is that you can run any pitch chain on it so long as the gauge is right. It'll be easier and cheaper to switch your 909D over to .404 than to get a new loop of 7/16" chain for that bar methinks.

Edit:

Just double checked my IPL's. Looks like my C5 drum may not work for you. There were two different width clutch setups used on these saws. Part numbers are different. They even used two different clutch covers (because of the changeover to the wider clutch). May be harder to switch to .404 than I first thought. Need to dig deeper into it. I believe my 900D is set up for 7/6" right now too. I WAS planning on switching it over to a rim-drive setup using a 10616 Oregon drum. I'll get back to you...

here is the info from acres site. from personal experience stay away from longer bars with .404 chain. I usually put on a 3/8 sprocket and ran a 20 to 24 inch bar. I did put a 36 inch bar with .404 on one time and found that it was under powered for that set up.
Model Profile: C-52

Yep. I agree with you Jim. I haven't messed with 3/8" chain on these saws, but I've found that the C5/51/52 are happiest with a 26" or shorter bar when running .404. My 'runner' C5 (avy pic) is wearing a 1969 vintage 21" Oregon 'Lecronic' hardnose that I got NOS a while ago. I was running an old 25" hardnose (from my EZ) on it before that. Now that the EZ/EZ6 project is coming to conclusion, that saw has taken its B/C back. If I want to run a longer bar, I grab a more powerful saw!

 

[Eccentric]

Nice Jacob! I am going to town to get a deer tag, and swinging by my father in law's, bringing home his super xl 925, and a clean low hour saw!

Good deal Norm! Take good care of that beast.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Will do, also came home with a 50in bar for homelite, has the stinger on the end for two man, or can bolt to two power head's. Gonna look closer and see if you can put a sprocket tip on. I dont think so if you can't may trade for a standard bar.

 

[Eccentric]

Will do, also came home with a 50in bar for homelite, has the stinger on the end for two man, or can bolt to two power head's. Gonna look closer and see if you can put a sprocket tip on. I dont think so if you can't may trade for a standard bar.

That bar's probably for the large frame Homelites (C-Series/XP-Series/2100/etc) and not for the XL925. Send pics of both ends of the bar to my phone. Are both ends slotted for powerheads? The stinger hole/slot is often just a large 'teardrop' shaped hole in the nose of the bar. Those bars still have a hardnose on that end. I'd be VERY interested in that bar for my Homelite 1130G.

I'm off today. Took a VAC day today, as I'm working OT on Sunday. Just shifted my weekend up a bit. Going into RP to gas up at Costco and pick up a few things from Lowes (PVC pipe stuff for the house). Will call/text you later.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Yeah that thing is nice need's a wire wheel for the rust, but could clean up easy. Wish it had a normal tip. You still at lowe's Aaron? LOL!

 

[Sport Faller]

Heya, I'm thinking of restoring the c-52 i recently purchased, does anyone know where I can score the "C-52" and "DIRECT DRIVE" decals?

Thanks, Jake

 

[Eccentric]

Yeah that thing is nice need's a wire wheel for the rust, but could clean up easy. Wish it had a normal tip. You still at lowe's Aaron? LOL!

Nah. I'd gotten my butt back home and had fixed the PVC pipe issues and taken a shower by then. Tied up with 'family' time after that.

Heya, I'm thinking of restoring the c-52 i recently purchased, does anyone know where I can score the "C-52" and "DIRECT DRIVE" decals?

Thanks, Jake

Joe Salva (Sugar Creek Supply) makes the repro decals you need. They're sold on feebay, as well as direct from Joe.

 

[homelitejim]

I picked up a freebee saw the first day of holiday here in Nevada, but won't be able to post pics until I get home. Of course it is a Homelite saw, a well crudded up Homelite super 2. Thought it was siezed but cleaned it up and found it was just so dirty that it wouldn't pull over, had it running last night. It will need some parts that were well weathered and dry rotted but piston and cylindere were in like new condition and no carbon, even the fuel lines are in great shape.

 

[rarefish383]

Anyone know how many dl's on chain for a 30 in bar for an XL924, Joe.

 

[Ambull]

Anyone know how many dl's on chain for a 30 in bar for an XL924, Joe.

.404 or 3/8 ?

Not that I would know anyway.... lol. It might depend on the bar that you are using. Solid nose, roller nose, sprocket nose, etc.

 

[Wildman1024]

.404 or 3/8 ?

Not that I would know anyway.... lol. It might depend on the bar that you are using. Solid nose, roller nose, sprocket nose, etc.

404 would be about 94DL

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Here is a collection of 109, XL-12's The guy has over 600 saws in his collection total.
I think he is in Finland somewhere.

 

[Brian VT]

There's one of those XL-12 based trimmers around here. I'm tempted to grab it. Maybe some day.
I wish they made an ice auger, like McCulloch did.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Here is a collection of 109, XL-12's The guy has over 600 saws in his collection total.
I think he is in Finland somewhere.

No wonder they're getting harder to find!

 

[Sport Faller]

Ok, so I was up tuning on the C-52 today and noticed it would bog down at the slightest pressure and had zero balls, after about 15 seconds it started to sputter and then died, checked the external line from the tank and sure enough it had a decent leak. I decided to pull the front of the tank and lo and behold the internal line was so crappy and rotted that the fuel filter had become detached and the front cover of the tank had this crap all over it (which appears to be a bunch of gasket material)

I'm guessing I should also pull the carb and clean it out?
it prolly has a ton of crap in it, where are some specific spots in the carb I should make sure to look for gunk in?

Thanks, Jake

 

[Eccentric]

Ok, so I was up tuning on the C-52 today and noticed it would bog down at the slightest pressure and had zero balls, after about 15 seconds it started to sputter and then died, checked the external line from the tank and sure enough it had a decent leak. I decided to pull the front of the tank and lo and behold the internal line was so crappy and rotted that the fuel filter had become detached and the front cover of the tank had this crap all over it (which appears to be a bunch of gasket material)


I'm guessing I should also pull the carb and clean it out?
it prolly has a ton of crap in it, where are some specific spots in the carb I should make sure to look for gunk in?

Thanks, Jake

You'll know it when you see it. The biggest crap will be jammed into the sintered bronze filter under the sheet metal cover on the bottom of the carb. Just pull the whole thing apart. Don't bother pulling the throttle/choke shafts and plates however. The pump and metering sections will be cruddy. Pull it apart and flush every passage out with carb cleaner (with the little straw on the can). Watch your eyes...........as some of those passages do a 180 and will shoot stuff right back atcha. The carb kit you need is an RK-88HL. Use 3/16" ID automotive line from the tank to the carb, and 3/16" ID Tygon type line for the inside of the tank.

 

[Sport Faller]

You'll know it when you see it. The biggest crap will be jammed into the sintered bronze filter under the sheet metal cover on the bottom of the carb. Just pull the whole thing apart. Don't bother pulling the throttle/choke shafts and plates however. The pump and metering sections will be cruddy. Pull it apart and flush every passage out with carb cleaner (with the little straw on the can). Watch your eyes...........as some of those passages do a 180 and will shoot stuff right back atcha. The carb kit you need is an RK-88HL. Use 3/16" ID automotive line from the tank to the carb, and 3/16" ID Tygon type line for the inside of the tank.

Thanks, got the lines from the store, gots to order a carb kit tho


Carb kindof looks like a Little Orphan Annie secret decoder ring when turned on it's top

Also, kindof off subject but what's the 90 deg. body and spring steel tab for

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks, got the lines from the store, gots to order a carb kit tho


Carb kindof looks like a Little Orphan Annie secret decoder ring when turned on it's top

Also, kindof off subject but what's the 90 deg. body and spring steel tab for

I'm sorry, but I'm not understanding which bits on the carb you're refering to. Could you shoot a pic and describe what you're looking at? I'm sure we can explain then.

Wait a sec...................did you remove the nuts from two bolts to take the carb off the intake manifold, or did you remove four bolts and take the carb and manifold off of the carb box as a unit? I'm thinking the "90 deg body" is the intake manifold/reed block assembly, and the "spring steel tab" is the reed. The reed acts as a one-way valve and keeps the intake charge (fuel/air) from being pushed back out of the crankcase through the carb when the piston moves down. On a piston ported saw, the skirt of the piston closes off the intake port to perform the same function.

 

[Sport Faller]

I'm sorry, but I'm not understanding which bits on the carb you're refering to. Could you shoot a pic and describe what you're looking at? I'm sure we can explain then.

Wait a sec...................did you remove the nuts from two bolts to take the carb off the intake manifold, or did you remove four bolts and take the carb and manifold off of the carb box as a unit? I'm thinking the "90 deg body" is the intake manifold/reed block assembly, and the "spring steel tab" is the reed. The reed acts as a one-way valve and keeps the intake charge (fuel/air) from being pushed back out of the crankcase through the carb when the piston moves down. On a piston ported saw, the skirt of the piston closes off the intake port to perform the same function.

oh yeah sorry, had to take the manifold off to get the adjustment screws to clear and throttle linkage off

oh neat, I gotcha, how come they don't do em like that anymore, is it less efficient or less powerful?

Also, this thing is actually pretty stinkin clean inside, should i still get a carb kit or just slap it back tohether and roll with it?