That would look good in the back window LOL
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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That would look good in the back window LOL
This is where the adventure begins in earnest.This saw is blessed with the diaphragm pump. Apparently at some time in the past 15 years or so,water found its way into the carrying case.This was evidenced by some corrosive pitting of the bottom of the magnesium case, a seized pump 'piston' that is driven by the diaphragm, and lastly the output check ball was stuck. With as much care as the two thumbs and two fingers that still have full sensation could muster, I was able to disassemble the diaphragm and unstick the check ball with a suitably sized twist drill from my index.
The next adventure will be to install some tie wire to the hose ends to make the connections pass the mouth derived vacuum leakage test. <G> I also don't want to go fishing for the duckbill again.
For those of you still tuned into this drama <G>,Wednesday was the first time in who knows how long this saw has spewed oil.Using ATF (which is about ten weight in viscosity), one has no doubts that the chain and bar are being adequately slathered.This site and the participants in it are a genuine resource. Thanks for the help.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
For those of you still tuned into this drama <G>,Wednesday was the first time in who knows how long this saw has spewed oil.Using ATF (which is about ten weight in viscosity), one has no doubts that the chain and bar are being adequately slathered.This site and the participants in it are a genuine resource. Thanks for the help.
Used used ATF for years in Grandpas saws, back when he changed tranny fluid every 10,000 miles. Did OK, chains were always nice and clean. Kinda hard on bars. Run it a while and mix something else in, or thin some bar oil with diesel and see if that goes through.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I've ran a few diaphragm pump Poulans that didn't like thick oil..........even in the summer. For those, I thinned the Homelite bar oil I was using (mid-80s) with some ATF. About 3/1 bar oil to ATF IIRC. Worked fine.
For those kind of saws I generally just get some motor oil that is on sale. I found a bunch of it at, of all places, Menards.
If you want thin bar oil, that cheap stuff at Menard's fits the bill.
Opps, our net's been down for about 2 weeks, I just found the new format for specific makes. Anyone have an 063 3/8 sprocket rim for a 1050. I'd like to try the 3/8 chain, have been using 404, and since I'm running a hard nose bar all I need is an 063 rim, 3/8 of course to convert. I was told that a 924-25 series rim may work. Thanks, Joe.
This whole bracket that holds the points/coil/condenser pictured here that I broke the tab off of
I think that part is the same on a lot of Homelite saws. Zips look identical, and my 1020 looks just like that. If the Zip's are the same, that would be your best saw to part out, as those go for cheap money all the time. Maybe somebody can clarify if there are differences or not.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is a test. The photos of my C-72 that I previously posted in a thread wouldn't open, and the photos I attempted to post in Swap Meet thread wouldn't open or embed.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Failure is an option.
The re-posted photos won't open, and the edit function isn't functioning.
The re-posted photos won't open, and the edit function isn't functioning.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Do you have a rim drive drum on that 1050? If so, then a standard 'large' spline 3/8" rim will work. They're not gauge specific either........meaning you don't need to find a .063G rim as they're all made for .050G thru .063G. a 3/8"-8pin rim is about the same diameter (meaning you'll get the same chain speed) as a .404-7pin rim. For fun, you could try a 3/8-9pin or 3/8-10pin rim. That saw would certainly pull them unless you're running LONG bars. My XP1020 had a .404-8pin rim on it with a 30" roller nose when I got it. .404-8 is about the same diameter as 3/8-9, and 3/8" chain gives less friction/resistance in the wood...
Do you have a rim drive drum on that 1050? If so, then a standard 'large' spline 3/8" rim will work. They're not gauge specific either........meaning you don't need to find a .063G rim as they're all made for .050G thru .063G. a 3/8"-8pin rim is about the same diameter (meaning you'll get the same chain speed) as a .404-7pin rim. For fun, you could try a 3/8-9pin or 3/8-10pin rim. That saw would certainly pull them unless you're running LONG bars. My XP1020 had a .404-8pin rim on it with a 30" roller nose when I got it. .404-8 is about the same diameter as 3/8-9, and 3/8" chain gives less friction/resistance in the wood...
Unless he is dealing with the cursed 6 spline drum. Then, one is SOL.
Chris B.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That's true Chris. I forgot about that one. I've been lucky enough to get a few Oregon 10616 rim drive drums.
paulyb21
ArboristSite Operative
A new to me baby Homie XL1
Hello Guys time to post again. I just got a new homelite given to me. Father to son to me route.
Haven't had much time to play around with it but its in great shape. lots of paint and chain and clean. It was well cared for and or had little use. The spark plug sparks and the fuel line is new. The plug seems to be smaller than my other ones?? what plug do you XL1 owners recommend?
Having trouble with the UT model number 50159 and the web. doesn't seem to jibe with homelite site to get an IPL.
I guess I will hit the "beg for Manuals" thread. Acres says its about 41cc's. Was this a decent runner? It feels solid and pretty lite compared to my bigger Homelite XL76, that is a wonderful beast. The search feature still wonky to get info quickly.
Paul
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Hello Guys time to post again. I just got a new homelite given to me. Father to son to me route.
Haven't had much time to play around with it but its in great shape. lots of paint and chain and clean. It was well cared for and or had little use. The spark plug sparks and the fuel line is new. The plug seems to be smaller than my other ones?? what plug do you XL1 owners recommend?
Having trouble with the UT model number 50159 and the web. doesn't seem to jibe with homelite site to get an IPL.
I guess I will hit the "beg for Manuals" thread. Acres says its about 41cc's. Was this a decent runner? It feels solid and pretty lite compared to my bigger Homelite XL76, that is a wonderful beast. The search feature still wonky to get info quickly.
Paul
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Hello Guys time to post again. I just got a new homelite given to me. Father to son to me route.
Haven't had much time to play around with it but its in great shape. lots of paint and chain and clean. It was well cared for and or had little use. The spark plug sparks and the fuel line is new. The plug seems to be smaller than my other ones?? what plug do you XL1 owners recommend?
Having trouble with the UT model number 50159 and the web. doesn't seem to jibe with homelite site to get an IPL.
I guess I will hit the "beg for Manuals" thread. Acres says its about 41cc's. Was this a decent runner? It feels solid and pretty lite compared to my bigger Homelite XL76, that is a wonderful beast. The search feature still wonky to get info quickly.
Paul
Hiya Paul. Glad you're keeping that saw in the family. Decent runner? That there's one of the BEST running chainsaws EVER made. Modern 40cc class saws vibe a bit less, weigh a bit less, and rev a bit higher.............but they just don't have the build quality or torque of these saws. The XL-1 model designation was mostly for the non-US market. Its basically a Homelite Super E-Z Automatic. Take care of that saw, and you'll be passing it down to YOUR grandkids...
Rep for you.
paulyb21
ArboristSite Operative
Thats good to Know XL1
Paulb
Thanks Aaron Thats good to know. She looks well made. I will search out Super EZ Automatic info
Paulb
Here's how I finally solved the starter problem on my C5. Friend of mine came up with a C7 and I intermingled the starter parts and the flywheel.
New Blue addition
Here's a pic of my latest acquisition. I was amazed when I got it home and all it needed was fuel. I haven't repainted anything on the saw...it appears to not have been used much.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Nice! The Old Blue and Big Red were built right at the end of the 30+ year XL12/SXL run. 'Twas a way of drumming up a few more sales (through nostalgia) for this grand design before the book was closed on it. Early '90s. I see more of the Big Red versions than the Old Blue. That one of yours is in NICE shape.
Nice! The Old Blue and Big Red were built right at the end of the 30+ year XL12/SXL run. 'Twas a way of drumming up a few more sales (through nostalgia) for this grand design before the book was closed on it. Early '90s. I see more of the Big Red versions than the Old Blue. That one of yours is in NICE shape.
It was stored in a back room of a 'repair' shop supposedly because it couldn't be fixed. The muffler was real loose I assume because someone looked at the piston, don't know for sure. I pulled the rope and it seemed to have all kinds of compression so I just tightened the muffler back up, put fuel in it and it took off. I didn't even adjust the carb and it even had a new fuel line on it. Dunno, maybe they got it mixed up with another saw that didn't run. I didn't ask too many questions because at the time I figured it had a bad piston or something. I'm not positive but I think I may have a Big Red also. I have two or three red ones, I'll have to see if any are Big Red versions.
