Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

I just went out and checked..no such luck, they just say "SXLAO" on them. No Big Reds.

 

[87notchbk]

anyone have a spare clutch side cover with adjuster screw for a 550? thanks

 

[67L36Driver]

Early production XL-12 bar pattern?

I have a blue/white XL-12 with the small bar studs. What was the Oregon bar pattern number (if there ever was one)?

It now has the 'S' shape spacer to build up the stud diameter.

I think a K095 may fit.

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks guys, I'm kinda slow responding, our Verizon DSL croaked. We got Comcast last week and I'm editing all of my web sites to our new email address. Yes the 1050 is a rim drive. The rim says 404 8 on it. I'm using it to mill with, with a 36" bar. I thought I'd try the 3/8 chain just to see if it cuts any smoother or faster. Plus the 3/8 chain is more available and cheaper. Saturday I went past the local Stihl dealer on the way to cut my mom's grass. I pulled in and asked him to cut me a 107 link loop, should have asked for the price first. I got back and he got me for 69 cents a DL. Anyway, any large shaft rim will work, correct? Will an XL700 work? I have one that was straight gassed that I could rob. Thanks again, Joe.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

C5 on ebay

I've been watching a C5 on ebay to see what they're bringing and it don't look good. It looks like this C5 only brought $25+shipping. It looked like a pretty nice saw too. Probably belongs to someone here so congrats on the buy, condolences on the sell, I guess.
He did list it as "used" when it probably should have been under "parts or repair" because he didn't try to start it, he only said it had compression. I would have to assume it wouldn't run without a little work.

 

[Eccentric]

I have a blue/white XL-12 with the small bar studs. What was the Oregon bar pattern number (if there ever was one)?

It now has the 'S' shape spacer to build up the stud diameter.

I think a K095 may fit.

IIRC, a D176 mount bar will fit (McCulloch/Echo/Poulan). Can't remember if the oiler/adjuster holes are right though. The best way to go if you have the "S" spacer is to just get a D096/D196 XL-mount bar (like what you'd put on a later XL12/SXL) and run it with the spacer.

Thanks guys, I'm kinda slow responding, our Verizon DSL croaked. We got Comcast last week and I'm editing all of my web sites to our new email address. Yes the 1050 is a rim drive. The rim says 404 8 on it. I'm using it to mill with, with a 36" bar. I thought I'd try the 3/8 chain just to see if it cuts any smoother or faster. Plus the 3/8 chain is more available and cheaper. Saturday I went past the local Stihl dealer on the way to cut my mom's grass. I pulled in and asked him to cut me a 107 link loop, should have asked for the price first. I got back and he got me for 69 cents a DL. Anyway, any large shaft rim will work, correct? Will an XL700 work? I have one that was straight gassed that I could rob. Thanks again, Joe.

I've been watching a C5 on ebay to see what they're bringing and it don't look good. It looks like this C5 only brought $25+shipping. It looked like a pretty nice saw too. Probably belongs to someone here so congrats on the buy, condolences on the sell, I guess.
He did list it as "used" when it probably should have been under "parts or repair" because he didn't try to start it, he only said it had compression. I would have to assume it wouldn't run without a little work.

C-5's run hot and cold on feebay. They're the most common of the C-series, and usually don't go for a whole lot. I got the near-cherry one in my avatar pic for something like $19 plus shipping on feebay about three years ago. Just needed about five pounds of oiley sawdust cleaned out of it, the usual fuel system refresh, a new starter rope, and a fuel tank gasket. Runs great. I was REALLY lucky with that one. Bid on it on impulse, as I already had a good running (but not as nice looking) C-5 which I'd gotten from an AS member back in 2007. That C-5's heading off to another AS member tomorrow. Gotta keep 'em in the family.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

IIRC, a D176 mount bar will fit (McCulloch/Echo/Poulan). Can't remember if the oiler/adjuster holes are right though. The best way to go if you have the "S" spacer is to just get a D096/D196 XL-mount bar (like what you'd put on a later XL12/SXL) and run it with the spacer.





C-5's run hot and cold on feebay. They're the most common of the C-series, and usually don't go for a whole lot. I got the near-cherry one in my avatar pic for something like $19 plus shipping on feebay about three years ago. Just needed about five pounds of oiley sawdust cleaned out of it, the usual fuel system refresh, a new starter rope, and a fuel tank gasket. Runs great. I was REALLY lucky with that one. Bid on it on impulse, as I already had a good running (but not as nice looking) C-5 which I'd gotten from an AS member back in 2007. That C-5's heading off to another AS member tomorrow. Gotta keep 'em in the family.

If mine was for sale, which it isn't, I suppose it might bring even less since it's not original, with the C7 starter and flywheel, dunno if that kind of stuff really matters but the starter side doesn't look like yours since I eliminated the Fairbanks Morse starter. I feel like this is a better system though but the other system probably worked well when it was newer.

 

[Ambull]

So I was telling Aaron about how I bought some Neoprene tubing from McMaster Carr to re-wrap my handles. I used the 7/8" ID 1 1/8" OD @ $2.23/foot. The rubber is about twice as much, and it would probably go around the bends better. I had to wrestle it on, but the end results were pretty good. It is far better than wrapping the handle with tape. When ordering, use the same size ID as the OD on your handlebar. Don't worry, it will stay tight.

This is the 1050 Super. The existing rubber was all cut up and falling apart.

Here is a 1020 full wrap. You can see that the Neoprene pulls up a little on the clutch side on top. I will try to hit it with a heat gun and see if I can get it to lay down:

 

[watsonr]

Figured you Homelite guys would like this! 750 and a 30" red oak

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[Eccentric]

If mine was for sale, which it isn't, I suppose it might bring even less since it's not original, with the C7 starter and flywheel, dunno if that kind of stuff really matters but the starter side doesn't look like yours since I eliminated the Fairbanks Morse starter. I feel like this is a better system though but the other system probably worked well when it was newer.

Yeah. The later pawl type starter setup (C72, XP1020-1130G, 2000/2100/3100G) is much more possitive and trouble free than the FM system. The FM setup isn't bad if you keep good cups and dogs in it, and don't flail away when pulling. Give it a quick (but not brutal) short tug until the dogs seat.........THEN give it a good pull to start. You installed a C72 starter setup on your C5 correct? A C7 or C9 would still have the FM starter. The overrunning bearing starter setup of the C51/71/91, XP1000, and a few other saws is even worse than the FM in my experience. If I end up with one of those saws, I'll change it out to the pawl type if I can.

 

[briantutt]

Figured you Homelite guys would like this! 750 and a 30" red oak

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I'm only a little jealous...NOT. That's pretty sweet.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Figured you Homelite guys would like this! 750 and a 30" red oak

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pretty good felling job to lay it down right next to your wood pile.:msp_unsure:

 

[kmcinms]

Arrrrggggh!

Well, I was hoping for good news, but I ended up with some bad news. I have some carnage on a Super XL and I need some help guys. One of the elders in my church enlisted me to resurrect his Super. I agreed to do the deed. So I went through the carb, fuel lines and pulled the flywheel to dress the points. It wasn't firing, or else I woulda left the flywheel alone. Well, here's the deal. I took the starter drive dogs off to make a flat plate to be used as a puller. I evidently inverted the dogs on installation. When I fired the booger off, I got some good carnage coming out of the stater housing and some nice sounds to go with it.
Anyone have a few spare pieces for a Super XL that I can beg. I have a 330, but have never pulled it apart to see if any of those parts would interchange, but I'm not holding my breath.

Looks like I need a flywheel, and a coil. Holler at me if you have anything I can use. Thanks a ton guys.

Kevin

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Well, I was hoping for good news, but I ended up with some bad news. I have some carnage on a Super XL and I need some help guys. One of the elders in my church enlisted me to resurrect his Super. I agreed to do the deed. So I went through the carb, fuel lines and pulled the flywheel to dress the points. It wasn't firing, or else I woulda left the flywheel alone. Well, here's the deal. I took the starter drive dogs off to make a flat plate to be used as a puller. I evidently inverted the dogs on installation. When I fired the booger off, I got some good carnage coming out of the stater housing and some nice sounds to go with it.
Anyone have a few spare pieces for a Super XL that I can beg. I have a 330, but have never pulled it apart to see if any of those parts would interchange, but I'm not holding my breath.

Looks like I need a flywheel, and a coil. Holler at me if you have anything I can use. Thanks a ton guys.

Kevin

Another suggestion while you have the flywheel off make sure the bolts behind flywheel to attaching the fuel tank to the crank are tight. Very common for them to come undone
By inverted do you mean cross threaded? If i had all my parts with me I would be able to help you out :msp_sad:

 

[kmcinms]

Another suggestion while you have the flywheel off make sure the bolts behind flywheel to attaching the fuel tank to the crank are tight. Very common for them to come undone
By inverted do you mean cross threaded? If i had all my parts with me I would be able to help you out :msp_sad:

Not cross threaded, but I believe I had them going the wrong direction. As soon as the engine started and centrifugal forces took over, the starter dogs began to tear a path out of there in a hurry. I'll check the fuel tank bolts when I go back together with it. Do you know what year this saw is? Thanks

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Not cross threaded, but I believe I had them going the wrong direction. As soon as the engine started and centrifugal forces took over, the starter dogs began to tear a path out of there in a hurry. I'll check the fuel tank bolts when I go back together with it. Do you know what year this saw is? Thanks

:msp_unsure: Wow Sorry to hear.
If you post the serial number someone might be able to tell you?

 

[Roanoker494]

Alright all you homelite lovers out there. How could you say no to this?

1969 Homelite T-12 Lawn Mower,rare | eBay

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Alright all you homelite lovers out there. How could you say no to this?

1969 Homelite T-12 Lawn Mower,rare | eBay

Looks like a re-badged Wheel Horse to me, with a few changes thrown in. I had a 69 WH and several things on it look like the Homelite.

 

[kmcinms]

Yup, we had a WH that looked a lot like that.

 

[Wolfcsm]

For hoss

Could not figure out how to put pictures in the mail.

Overall of the carb:

Close up of the fitting;

View attachment 197354View attachment 197355View attachment 197356

Have seen another saw with a fitting and line down through the case. IPL shows a line from the CARB into the lower case.

Hal