Homelite Chainsaws

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Yes, 450 it is, but with several differences. The DM-50 has a light tan trigger module, where as the 450 was blue. The tan module has a lower rev limit. No oil passages are drilled in the crank base. The handle also doesn't have the manual oiler components in it. No chain adjuster in the sprocket cover. Different air filter setup, even though I've heard the DM-50 filter setup was offered as an option on 450 and 550 saws, but can't confirm this 100%. Think the crank was a littler beefier in the DM-50 than on the 450, even though its the same stroke. It may be it had the same as the 550, but there may have been 3 variants in all. Don't have the IPLS right now to check. Oh yea, the piston on the DM-50 used thick rings instead of the thin rings on the 450....

Dan
 
This arrived this morning:


View attachment 200752
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There is no builder tag so no telling what model of the 100 series this may be. Has to be 57 cc due to the compression release I guess. 101's don't have them.

Chainsawlady pronounced it to be a XL-123. Model Profile: XL-123

We be uptown now, 57cc and auto oiler.:clap:
 
homelite xl carb kit problem

have a homelite xl carb that was brought in to me. its a zama c2s h5 i believe according to the oregon book. Problem is oregon as the kit discontinued. Was this a short run carb where it should be replaced with a walboro on one of the other years? I am having trouble locating this kit anywhere. What is the best plan of attack?

Zama kit number rb-19
oregon number 49-821-0
 
have a homelite xl carb that was brought in to me. its a zama c2s h5 i believe according to the oregon book. Problem is oregon as the kit discontinued. Was this a short run carb where it should be replaced with a walboro on one of the other years? I am having trouble locating this kit anywhere. What is the best plan of attack?

Zama kit number rb-19
oregon number 49-821-0

Change the carb. to a Walbro HDC-48A or Tillotson HK-27A. All three I've had were equipped with the Walbro.
 
i see chainsawR has them both in stock. That is what i was figuring i would have to do. Was the zama a short run carb?

Yep. Towards the end of the "real" Homelite run, Zamas were used on some of the little XL2/Super2 saws as well as last SXL-AO saws and the 240's. Best move is to swap to a Walbro or Tilly like Carl said.
 
Clutch 'Jumped Ship'

I generally keep the clutch cover on a powerhead when I run it without the bar but today I didn't. I had beat on the clutch trying to remove it the other night and it wouldn't budge. Thought about making a spanner wrench. Today I crank it up without the cover and it stalls.

The clutch, drum sprocket, teeth, hair and eyeballs go stailing down the yard accross the street and into the school grounds. Found everything but the bearing and any inner race that may have been present one hundred yards from ground zero. Lucky the school district cut the grass three days ago and the shoes w/springs stayed together. I found the drum sprocket and wifey found the clutch. Yikes!
 
I had a similar thing happen. All I could think of as I watched the clutch go shooting across a cement pad and slam into a yard trailer were Lee's words to me. "Be careful with the clutch, you won't find another one."
 
to many big saws

dont know why i did it but i coudnt pass up another one..
posted in the main forum but i know you homie guys appreciate more :)

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and a DM-50 full wrap casn be modified to fit :)

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the one one the right will be going away i think,after i swap bars..
i cant see keeping two now that i have them :(
 
I find some of the worst saws to buy and work on.

I ran this 330 to cut down a tree. Found the clutch was not acting right and upon further inspection found the shoes had been thrown off and the locked the drum up.

Do they still make clutch shoes with the material on them like this saw uses or is there another clutch alternative I can run on it like most normal saws have.

Also when I sat it down it ran lean and idled up so I took it all apart tonight to look at the carb boot and it was fine. I also realized it was out of fuel:angry: I think that was all that was wrong. I did not realize it was low on fuel so that would explain the high idle and die.

Anyways. Is there a way to vacuum test this thing? I found a tiny vent hole on the bottom below the reed cage area that looks like it is suposed to be there. Is there anything else that needs plugged?

Saw does have 150 psi and I was thinking instead of selling it I could use it as a firewood saw if I can sort out the issues reasonably. This thing has a lot of crap to take off to get to the boot. It made working on the min mac seem like a breeze:laugh:
 
dont know why i did it but i coudnt pass up another one..
posted in the main forum but i know you homie guys appreciate more :)

attachment.php


and a DM-50 full wrap casn be modified to fit :)

attachment.php


the one one the right will be going away i think,after i swap bars..
i cant see keeping two now that i have them :(

That's the 750 you just got from the old gent right? OK....I will relieve you of this great burden and give you what you paid him for it!!!:D
 
I find some of the worst saws to buy and work on.

I ran this 330 to cut down a tree. Found the clutch was not acting right and upon further inspection found the shoes had been thrown off and the locked the drum up.

Do they still make clutch shoes with the material on them like this saw uses or is there another clutch alternative I can run on it like most normal saws have.

Also when I sat it down it ran lean and idled up so I took it all apart tonight to look at the carb boot and it was fine. I also realized it was out of fuel:angry: I think that was all that was wrong. I did not realize it was low on fuel so that would explain the high idle and die.

Anyways. Is there a way to vacuum test this thing? I found a tiny vent hole on the bottom below the reed cage area that looks like it is suposed to be there. Is there anything else that needs plugged?

Saw does have 150 psi and I was thinking instead of selling it I could use it as a firewood saw if I can sort out the issues reasonably. This thing has a lot of crap to take off to get to the boot. It made working on the min mac seem like a breeze:laugh:

You should have gone with me last month...I got four saws, each one was very difficult to get going. I have them going now, two weeks later but I'm still not pleased. I paid more for the saws than I usually do, which really got under my skin considering how much trouble I had.
I agree with you though, you did pick some of the most difficult saws to work with. The saws I don't mess with are: Mini-Mac, Homelite 150, Homelite 330, Homelite 360, Echo 300, and I'm sure there are others, I just haven't happened onto them yet.
 
That's the 750 you just got from the old gent right? OK....I will relieve you of this great burden and give you what you paid him for it!!!:D

Yeh,,thats the one :)
and yes they are a burden,quite heavy !!
 
the one one the right will be going away i think,after i swap bars..
i cant see keeping two now that i have them :(
You're a stronger man than I. Can't see myself ever getting rid of any of the 750's, or any of my other '50s for that matter. If one could find pistons for these saws, they'd be few reasons I could ever imagine not to have as many as would fit on the shelves. Just my opinion of course.

Dan
 
I haven't found the 360 to be tough to work on. What part bothers you ?

I'm really not sure...I've had a couple of them and assumed they had the same boot problem as the 330. I don't especially like the 360 spark plug wire apparatus either. I basically just like conventional saws, not crazy about when they try to innovate. Don't like the Stihl flippy caps either.
 
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the one one the right will be going away i think,after i swap bars..
i cant see keeping two now that i have them :(

This statement sounds a lot like what my chainsaw hating wife would say, when she comes around I start hiding the good saws in boxes until she goes away. Good luck.
 

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