Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

The farmer down the road has a Homelite 707. It looks to be in good condition, still has most of the paint and decals. Feels like good compression. He bought it new in the early 60's, said the last time he ran it was over 25 years ago. He said to make him and offer. What is something like this worth? I don't want to insult him, but I also don't want to pay twice it's worth.

Is it a 707G or 707D? G stands for gear drive. D for direct. Pull the muffler apart so you can peek inside. If it's not scored and the P/C/Rings look good and it has a good bar and chain, then I'd offer $50-$100 depending on condition. As long as the internals are good, then just about everything else that'd keep it from running is easily/cheaply fixed. The carb will be a Tillotson HL, so a common RK-88HL kit will get you back in business. The points and condensor are the same what's on most large Homelites of the era. Easy to find. The coils don't usually fail, and are not hard to find if needed. The bar mount is the same as all the '60s and later large frame Homelites such as the C-Series and 1050 (not the XL12 thru 750).

A 'D' may have 1/2", 7/16", or .404" pitch chain in it, but is easily/cheaply changeable between pitches because they take the same clutch drums/sprockets as C-Series Homelites. A 'G' will most likely have 1/2" pitch chain. That's very expensive stuff now, and it's a bit more work/expense to change the saw over to .404 pitch. Because of that...................................the value of a 'G' will be more affected by the condition and length of the B/C. A really cherry 707G with a good, serviceable 30" or longer bar and chain would be worth a bit more (say $150-$200).........................especially if it has the rare .404 sprocket on it. A good, serviceable 42" or longer bar/chain is a 'value enhancement' too of course.

 

[leed3349]

looking for a full wrap handel for a 2100s thanks lee

 

[leeha]

looking for a full wrap handel for a 2100s thanks lee

I hate to say it, But good luck finding a good full wrap
for 2100. I need one for a Super 2100 with the rubber
covering. Been looking for a loooong time.
If you happen to get lucky and find one, Please keep me
in mind if you find more than one.



Lee

 

[Eccentric]

While you guys are lookin' for full-wrap handlebars for your 2100's......................keep an eye out for an 1100-1130G full-wrap handlebar for me. Doesn't need to be perfect. Mine's badly crunched up....

 

[crane]

26lcs

This seems to be the right place for this post. I've been working on a 26LCS for a long time now. The back story: picked this saw up in Montana. It was donated to the last owner after spending a long life as a firewood cutters saw. It was used to remove the last of the timber under what is today lake koocanusa, north of Libby MT. Engraved on the recoil cover is an estimate for 3 million log feet of lumber cut with the original engine. Now keeping that in mind, I have tried to restore this saw to running condition with the minimal of new parts. The tally stands at 1 new plug wire and plug, new loop of 1/2" .058 chain and sprocket, new fuel lines, but kept original brass filter(cleaned of course). new cylinder gasket, new steel cable for recoil.

I cannot get the saw to settle down. Get it all dialed in, and come back the next day and it won't idle, or it stalls when you hit the throttle. Now the saw was pressure/vac tested before tear down and passed with flying colors. I believe the problem to lie with the gaskets that seal the swivel at either end of the carb. Any ideas on how to test these.
I would like to keep this saw as original as possible, if only to preserve the history. I have been reluctant to add new decals or paint it for that reason. What say you all?

 

[crane]

Here's a close up of the engraving on the recoil cover as I received the saw:

 

[RandyMac]

Crane, keep it as is.

 

[crane]

I really want to........anyone have a line on a source for those swivel gaskets? P/n 71408A

 

[Eccentric]

Crane, keep it as is.

I agree. What a magnificent old veteran. In great shape too, considering the work it has done.

I really want to........anyone have a line on a source for those swivel gaskets? P/n 71408A

You will probably have to make your own. I don't have an IPL of that saw, so I don't know what those gaskets look like. There have been a surprising amount of NOS 26LCS parts on feebay over the last several months. You may get lucky there too. Whatever you do.............PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't repaint the saw...........PLEASE.:msp_thumbup:

 

[crane]

I will not be painting this saw. Any scars or chips were earned on this saw. Feebay has yielded nothing so far, but with three years into this saw(on and off), I'll keep looking. I like the fact that there is some tangible history behind this ol' war horse. If I can get the air leak nailed down, I have some wood with it's name on it.
This is what it looked like upon arrival.

 

[67L36Driver]

Here's a close up of the engraving on the recoil cover as I received the saw:

That is the coolest thing I've seen on this forum.

 

[67L36Driver]

I really want to........anyone have a line on a source for those swivel gaskets? P/n 71408A

Would they be like lip seals? I'm trying to build a picture in my mind of how you can seal a swiveling carb..

 

[cbfarmall]

I cannot get the saw to settle down. Get it all dialed in, and come back the next day and it won't idle, or it stalls when you hit the throttle. Now the saw was pressure/vac tested before tear down and passed with flying colors. I believe the problem to lie with the gaskets that seal the swivel at either end of the carb. Any ideas on how to test these.
I would like to keep this saw as original as possible, if only to preserve the history. I have been reluctant to add new decals or paint it for that reason. What say you all?

I matched up a set of quad o-rings to replace those seals. Can't even recall what the originals looked like. Far as testing, trying spraying carb cleaner (or ether) at those joints while the saw is running. Ought to make an appreciable difference.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

Would they be like lip seals? I'm trying to build a picture in my mind of how you can seal a swiveling carb..

The carb has flanges sandwiched between the intake pipe and the air cleaner housing. Pretty much flat surfaces, sealed with o-rings or something similar.

Chris B.

 

[Eccentric]

I matched up a set of quad o-rings to replace those seals. Can't even recall what the originals looked like. Far as testing, trying spraying carb cleaner (or ether) at those joints while the saw is running. Ought to make an appreciable difference.

Chris B.

Even something like WD-40 will usually make an RPM change when sprayed on an air leak.

 

[Arrowhead]

Is it a 707G or 707D? G stands for gear drive. D for direct. Pull the muffler apart so you can peek inside. If it's not scored and the P/C/Rings look good and it has a good bar and chain, then I'd offer $50-$100 depending on condition. As long as the internals are good, then just about everything else that'd keep it from running is easily/cheaply fixed. The carb will be a Tillotson HL, so a common RK-88HL kit will get you back in business. The points and condensor are the same what's on most large Homelites of the era. Easy to find. The coils don't usually fail, and are not hard to find if needed. The bar mount is the same as all the '60s and later large frame Homelites such as the C-Series and 1050 (not the XL12 thru 750).

A 'D' may have 1/2", 7/16", or .404" pitch chain in it, but is easily/cheaply changeable between pitches because they take the same clutch drums/sprockets as C-Series Homelites. A 'G' will most likely have 1/2" pitch chain. That's very expensive stuff now, and it's a bit more work/expense to change the saw over to .404 pitch. Because of that...................................the value of a 'G' will be more affected by the condition and length of the B/C. A really cherry 707G with a good, serviceable 30" or longer bar and chain would be worth a bit more (say $150-$200).........................especially if it has the rare .404 sprocket on it. A good, serviceable 42" or longer bar/chain is a 'value enhancement' too of course.

Thanks Aaron. At least now I have an idea. Thanks Again :msp_thumbup:

 

[Tomcurtis]

Homie 150

Hey guys i got a little homie 150 yesturday in a batch of part saws. these arent one of the saws i like so if anybody wants it i just wanna get my $ back on it. It has bad recoil spring. p and c look good gonna test fire monday. anybody interested pm me for more info. Thanks guys

 

[67L36Driver]

I may have a C5 tank in the parts saws pile.

Please take a look-see.

The more I clean, sand and Dremmel on this thing, the worse it looks. The crack in the cover is over 3/4 inch long. Tank itself looks usable.

 

[roncoinc]

Please take a look-see.

The more I clean, sand and Dremmel on this thing, the worse it looks. The crack in the cover is over 3/4 inch long. Tank itself looks usable.

If you dont see a pic here today PM me tomorrow.

 

[roncoinc]

Found this is all thats left of the C5 ,sorry.