Homelite Chainsaws

[theoctagon]

Super 2 problem

Hey guys i have a little super 2 here that once running starts and runs fantastic. The problem im having is that when it cools off it is an absolute bear to start. roughly 10 to 20 hard pulls. Then it runs and starts fine. New carb kit and has 150lbs compression. Just curious if there is something that jumps out at ya that is common to these little saws or if its possibly something as easy as a pin hole in a fuel line that leaks back over time.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Please take a look-see.

The more I clean, sand and Dremmel on this thing, the worse it looks. The crack in the cover is over 3/4 inch long. Tank itself looks usable.

Carl, I thought I was gonna be able to help you on this but I went out and looked at my spare C5 parts saw and it has a crack and a dent in it, so I'm no help. You may just have to fix it with JB Weld on the inside and do some body work on the outside of your tank to make it look good. It can probably be welded or brazed by someone who knows what they're doing. I've been reading up on this and I know it's possible. Joe

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hey guys i have a little super 2 here that once running starts and runs fantastic. The problem im having is that when it cools off it is an absolute bear to start. roughly 10 to 20 hard pulls. Then it runs and starts fine. New carb kit and has 150lbs compression. Just curious if there is something that jumps out at ya that is common to these little saws or if its possibly something as easy as a pin hole in a fuel line that leaks back over time.

Are you sure you have the carburetor set correctly? I think yours has the HDC if I'm right about it. I think you're supposed to align the plunger lever even with the flange and set the H and L screws at one turn each. There's nothing particular with these saws that would cause that other than normal maintenance items. Yes, the fuel line is old if it hasn't been changed. If it were my saw I would get a couple of feet of new fuel line and replace all the lines in the saw, one at a time so you won't get them turned around. Pay particular attention to the duck bill valves, one on the upper side of the gas tank and one in the line that goes right under the oil cap, if they're not in good shape your saw won't operate properly. You can buy all you need at a good small engine repair shop.

 

[Hoytster]

Does anybody know what the thread pitch is for a sparkplug hole on an SXL-925? I don't think I need to say why....

 

[67L36Driver]

Looks like Chainsawlady has me covered on the C5 tank cover.

Thanks fellas.

 

[67L36Driver]

Does anybody know what the thread pitch is for a sparkplug hole on an SXL-925? I don't think I need to say why....

14mm X 1.25mm pitch (eight threads/cm)

Just looked at my tap.

Auto parts stores have spark plug thread repair inserts and loaner tools.

 

[Hoytster]

14mm X 1.25mm pitch (eight threads/cm)

Just looked at my tap.

Auto parts stores have spark plug thread repair inserts and loaner tools.

Thanks!!!

 

[struggle]

I was cleaning the Homie E-Z auto from a day in the brush cutting out volunteer trees (this thing works awesome for that, actually used it over my MS261) and notice that rim drive is beyond worn out.

How or what tool do you use to remove the clutch on these? A picture would be great. Also where to get the tool?

 

[watsonr]

I was cleaning the Homie E-Z auto from a day in the brush cutting out volunteer trees (this thing works awesome for that, actually used it over my MS261) and notice that rim drive is beyond worn out.

How or what tool do you use to remove the clutch on these? A picture would be great. Also where to get the tool?

That the one with two holes in the clutch? IIRC...I used two Phillips screw drivers, one in each hole and a bigger one in between to turn them OR you can take a punch and give the edge of the hole a nice tap. Used the pull cord in the plug hole method as well.


Or is that an XL-12 clutch I did that with, I need someone to my mind is slipping!

 

[67L36Driver]

Clutch removal.

Of late, I have been drilling/tapping the spanner wrench holes for a socket head cap screw. I use a bronze bar and MFH (not a BFH) and wack it against the head of the cap screw. You get a more postive impulse to the L.H. clutch threads.

#12-24 tpi on the XL-101 clutch and the XL-12 is the same IIRC.

 

[67L36Driver]

Ebay junker XL-103(?)

This arrived this morning:
View attachment 200750

View attachment 200751

View attachment 200752

Rather ruff shape, the handle is broken at the bottom of the oil tank and the clutch cover has a couple large cracks but he blew 130. A kit in the carb and cleaning and seting the points got him to run off the 'funnel feed' for some twenty seconds. Even the oiler started pumping! More cleaning of the fuel tank and a new fuel line and we may get him to run longer. Never seen so much wood chips in a fuel tank before.

There is no builder tag so no telling what model of the 100 series this may be. Has to be 57 cc due to the compression release I guess. 101's don't have them.

 

[struggle]

That the one with two holes in the clutch? IIRC...I used two Phillips screw drivers, one in each hole and a bigger one in between to turn them OR you can take a punch and give the edge of the hole a nice tap. Used the pull cord in the plug hole method as well.


Or is that an XL-12 clutch I did that with, I need someone to my mind is slipping!

Yes it is the one with two holes and nothing else to attach to. I will try the screw driver method.

 

[struggle]

Also while I am here I got the Homelite XL running the other day and now it starts up fine but after a short bit it will rev up high and spin the chain like a crazy and then it will idle back down to normal for a while and then repeat:msp_unsure:

Any ideas:msp_confused:

If it were crank seals would it not run high idle all the time?

I have done is clean this unit and put it back together. No new seals. I replaced the oil pump lines. I left the fuel line alone. I will pull it back apart tomorrow and replace it as well. I had to slightly drill out by hand the oil pump holes as my lines were way to big to fit on the factory ones so the same for the fuel line as well.

 

[crane]

Never as much fun as the After picture.

Just for the curious...............I weighed the saws as they stand(no fuel)

26LCS 26" bar - 33lbs
20MCS 20" bar - 34lbs
17 18"bar - 26lbs
5-30 26"bar - 35lbs

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Great score on the Homelites crane.
They all cleaned up nice.

 

[67L36Driver]

Never as much fun as the After picture.

Just for the curious...............I weighed the saws as they stand(no fuel)

26LCS 26" bar - 33lbs
20MCS 20" bar - 34lbs
17 18"bar - 26lbs
5-30 26"bar - 35lbs

Really cool before/after pictures Drew.

Three of those weigh more than my grandson (3). I can only carry him so far.

Sigh, I need a pole barn.

 

[roncoinc]

Silly question but i have some good parts to a homie DM-50 cutoff saw.
was wondering what chainsaw this was close to and what parts could be used ?

 

[Brian VT]

Silly question but i have some good parts to a homie DM-50 cutoff saw.
was wondering what chainsaw this was close to and what parts could be used ?

Pretty sure 450.

 

[Ambull]

Pretty sure 450.

I think it actually is a 550 eingine, but most of the parts on these two saws are the same anyways. I think that even the crankcases are the same.

 

[Eccentric]

Silly question but i have some good parts to a homie DM-50 cutoff saw.
was wondering what chainsaw this was close to and what parts could be used ?

Pretty sure 450.

I think it actually is a 550 eingine, but most of the parts on these two saws are the same anyways. I think that even the crankcases are the same.

I thought the DM-50 was based on the 410. I have a buddy who owns a DM-50. Haven't seen it in a few years though. I'll have to check it out again...