Homelite Chainsaws

[Eecho]

Son of a #####. So I had to replace the fuel line on my SXL and purchased a new line/filter. The old setup was a tygon line with grommets. The new setup is a black rubber hose that requires no grommets to seal the tank. Unfortunately when I installed it this evening the inlet nozzle on the carb is too small for the size of the fuel line. Its not tight enough and sucks air when you hook everything up. So what do I do? I can't replace the carb nozzle so I guess I have to go back to a tygon line?

what about a tiny zip tie or another piece of old hose as a collar you can always twist a bread tie on if you split a fuel line in the field in a pinch they tend to draw in tighter . but that is just a temp fix.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

what about a tiny zip tie or another piece of old hose as a collar you can always twist a bread tie on if you split a fuel line in the field in a pinch they tend to draw in tighter . but that is just a temp fix.

I wonder if you can slip that Tygon line inside the black line and still use the line for a grommet.

 

[Eecho]

its worth a shot either that or a stack of rubber o rings till you can find the right sized tygon lines

 

[MEATSAW]

I'm going to try a zip tie. There is no reusing the old tygon line. Its stiff and inflexible. I could fit it inside the other line though, so maybe if the zip tie/hose clamp thing doesn't work out I can buy a small section of tygon and try that.

 

[67L36Driver]

Son of a #####. So I had to replace the fuel line on my SXL and purchased a new line/filter. The old setup was a tygon line with grommets. The new setup is a black rubber hose that requires no grommets to seal the tank. Unfortunately when I installed it this evening the inlet nozzle on the carb is too small for the size of the fuel line. Its not tight enough and sucks air when you hook everything up. So what do I do? I can't replace the carb nozzle so I guess I have to go back to a tygon line?

Maybe just me but, that carb. looks like it originally came on something else. The inlet spigot I've been seeing on XL-101 types and XL-12 would be snug in a 1/4" i.d. line.

What's the carb. number?

Bush the new line with a 1/2" length of the old tygon.

 

[Eccentric]

I've got a blue Super XL (LE) and don't know what the correct color of the air filter cover should be. It looks to be black but I see traces of a metallic blue. Just wondered what a clean original was supposed to look like.

Does it actually say "LE" or "Limited Eddition"? If so, then it's a late model saw (1980's or early 1990's) and would have had a black plastic AF cover. A blue 1960's Super XL would have had a metal AF cover painted the same color as the bulk of the saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Maybe just me but, that carb. looks like it originally came on something else. The inlet spigot I've been seeing on XL-101 types and XL-12 would be snug in a 1/4" i.d. line.

What's the carb. number?

Bush the new line with a 1/2" length of the old tygon.

I've got one just like it so I'd say some of them came that way..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I believe it's the Homelite bar that came with it when new. I'm pretty familiar with these saws and it's definitely a 240 bar but I haven't checked to see if that line is stopped up or not. It feels like the pump is stopped up. I should have soaked the pump in Simple Green or something when I had it off but I thought it might be ok. The diaphragm is good in the pump. Supposed to be warm again tomorrow, I'll probably tear it down again. At least it's running now. So far I've got about $2 in the saw and $15000 in labor. If I put this on ebay I'll have to start the bidding at about $800! LOL

Spent some of the morning on the 240, long enough to see that it wasn't gonna oil with the stock oiler. I checked the line to the bar and the opening by the bar and they were just fine so I'm doing the "pump bypass" on this item. I'll let you know when I get done if this works...if it doesn't work it'll mean there's no pulse from the (new) pulse line.

This evening I spent chasing saws and found three: They were a McCulloch 10-10 with fuel in it from when it was new, I think, a Husqvarna 261 and a Pioneer P39. I should have pics later after I clean 'em up. I never like to show pics of dirty saws.

 

[67L36Driver]

Spent some of the morning on the 240, long enough to see that it wasn't gonna oil with the stock oiler. I checked the line to the bar and the opening by the bar and they were just fine so I'm doing the "pump bypass" on this item. I'll let you know when I get done if this works...if it doesn't work it'll mean there's no pulse from the (new) pulse line.

This evening I spent chasing saws and found three: They were a McCulloch 10-10 with fuel in it from when it was new, I think, a Husqvarna 261 and a Pioneer P39. I should have pics later after I clean 'em up. I never like to show pics of dirty saws.

Phew! I know what your gonna smell like.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

phew! I know what your gonna smell like.

purple power?

 

[MEATSAW]

Just an update. I stole a zip tie from my wife's office since it was the perfect size. It works great. No leak and the ol' SXL is running great. Once I get the clutch nut tomorrow I should be able to get it all together (probably for the first time in several years its been that way!) This has been my first real project saw that was incomplete and crappy but now is complete and running strong.

 

[Eecho]

Just an update. I stole a zip tie from my wife's office since it was the perfect size. It works great. No leak and the ol' SXL is running great. Once I get the clutch nut tomorrow I should be able to get it all together (probably for the first time in several years its been that way!) This has been my first real project saw that was incomplete and crappy but now is complete and running strong.

What did you order a clutch nut , at first I was thinking you could use a nylock nut but then I remembered its left hand threaded if im not confusing my old one vs my new ones. Glad to hear the zip tie worked I have to completely tear mine down for a rebuild and powder coat in original blue and white.

 

[MEATSAW]

There was actually a NOS one on eBay (its part #81124) that I bought for a buck. I couldn't find any 3/8-24 nuts locally. I'm spending a day in the woods again this Sunday clearing a handgun range and you better believe this saw is going to do some work

 

[a. palmer jr.]

What did you order a clutch nut , at first I was thinking you could use a nylock nut but then I remembered its left hand threaded if im not confusing my old one vs my new ones. Glad to hear the zip tie worked I have to completely tear mine down for a rebuild and powder coat in original blue and white.

Some of the Homelites were right hand threaded, at least on the smaller saws. Super 2 and 240 series are. 3/8X24 is a standard size if right hand and should be available at any hardware store in the US.

 

[Eccentric]

The XL12/SXL series does indeed use a RH threaded clutch nut. The factory nut is a locknut. I guess they figured that was enough to keep 'em from spinning off. I've seen a LARGE number of XL12/SXL clutch covers with holes bored into them by loose clutch nuts, so I think they were in error here. The problem lies with people reusing the same clutch nut over and over. It looses it's locking effectiveness after several removal/instalation cycles. Best to use a new one.

 

[67L36Driver]

The XL12/SXL series does indeed use a RH threaded clutch nut. The factory nut is a locknut. I guess they figured that was enough to keep 'em from spinning off. I've seen a LARGE number of XL12/SXL clutch covers with holes bored into them by loose clutch nuts, so I think they were in error here. The problem lies with people reusing the same clutch nut over and over. It looses it's locking effectiveness after several removal/instalation cycles. Best to use a new one.

Note to self: Visit Ace hardware.:rolleyes2:

 

[MEATSAW]

Interesting the nut I got is a factory part #81124-A and it is not a lock nut. There is a lock washer though. I dug through every nut/bolt section at all nearby hardware stores. Never saw one that was a 3/8-24 in regular or locknut variety. But the one I got should work just fine. Thanks for the heads-up though its one of those routine checks I will do now when I run this saw.

 

[Eccentric]

The factory locknut isn't a nylock. One side is reduced diameter, and has a bunch of little slits. It's swedged down a bit on that end. Grips the last few threads on the crankshaft.

 

[Eecho]

The factory locknut isn't a nylock. One side is reduced diameter, and has a bunch of little slits. It's swedged down a bit on that end. Grips the last few threads on the crankshaft.

Yup mines that way on a super xl but nylock is probably the closest thing you can find readily available , I need to chain the wico flywheel points system out on mine to solid state flywheel and coil after I get the colored parts back from the powder coater.

 

[Pioneer fan]

Anyone have a useable Cylinder and piston (w/rings) for a C-5/C-51? Just picked one up, and the p&c is trashed, rest of saw looks good. Thanks for any help.