Homelite Chainsaws

[jerrycmorrow]

on the C5 tank. i tried the heat/cool cycling along with soaking it in kroil and then trying to drift it out. wouldn't come out. finally decided to drill it out. unfortunately the center of the bit didn't exactly coincide with the center of the broken screw. not too far off though. anyways, after using progressively larger bits - and the OEM screw - i got enough out to accept the OEM screw. it is slightly offset toward the center of the tank but only by about 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the screw. mocked it up using screws in the upper and bottom right corners then put the screw in. took the two corner screws out just to see if there was any bind left in the new screw hole; nope. the new hole allows the screw to draw the cover down as supposed to. thanks, guys for all the help. gonna try to get the tank together this weekend, let it cure for about a week, and see if there's any leaks. my plan is the tighten the screws down to what i feel is reasonable torque, let it cure for about a day, and retighten. we'll see. i'll let you know.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

having a bad day

Working on a non-running Homelite 240. Replaced the fuel lines, filter, cleaned carb. I had some new, never used carb kit parts laying around so trying to save some money I sorted out enough parts to make a "new" kit. I installed it, put everything back together and it would only run on choke, which was better than it was. After retracing my steps I noticed the big diaphragm didn't have the raised spot in the middle so I picked out one that did. Went to all the trouble to put it back together and now it's getting too much gas! I have the HL screws at 1 turn each and the inlet lever at level with the carb floor. Gas just pours out the muffler now, seems the lever is too high but don't think it is..so I put it back, save for another day.

I didn't mention, spark and compression are good.

 

[MEATSAW]

Anyone one know the threads of the clutch nut on an SXL? The one I just managed to get off is more stripped than Lindsey Lohan on a crack binge.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

C5 bar

got a bonehead question here. still outfitting my rebuild C5. got a real good opportunity to buy a 24" hardnose 0.063 bar at a great price. not meaning to insult the AS member i'm dealing with but i've never used a HN bar or 0.063 chain before; most all my other saws are 0.050. just wondering if this is a good fit for the soon-to-be rebuilt C5?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

got a bonehead question here. still outfitting my rebuild C5. got a real good opportunity to buy a 24" hardnose 0.063 bar at a great price. not meaning to insult the AS member i'm dealing with but i've never used a HN bar or 0.063 chain before; most all my other saws are 0.050. just wondering if this is a good fit for the soon-to-be rebuilt C5?

I don't know about your C5 but mine isn't overly endowed with power, starts easy and runs fairly good but isn't a powerhouse. Mine has a 20" bar on it and it seems plenty. Yours may be better?

I just looked it up and they're 77cc. Hmmm, maybe mine needs a little work...

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I don't know about your C5 but mine isn't overly endowed with power, starts easy and runs fairly good but isn't a powerhouse. Mine has a 20" bar on it and it seems plenty. Yours may be better?

I just looked it up and they're 77cc. Hmmm, maybe mine needs a little work...

yeah, i'm rebuilding mine from the ground up i.e.- seals, rings, gaskets, etc.; bearings appear to be in good shape. hoping its got good power. according to Acres it takes a 12" to a 30". won't know until i get it finished but don't want to bog it down with a bar too big.

 

[Eccentric]

Anyone one know the threads of the clutch nut on an SXL? The one I just managed to get off is more stripped than Lindsey Lohan on a crack binge.

5/16-24.

 

[Eccentric]

got a bonehead question here. still outfitting my rebuild C5. got a real good opportunity to buy a 24" hardnose 0.063 bar at a great price. not meaning to insult the AS member i'm dealing with but i've never used a HN bar or 0.063 chain before; most all my other saws are 0.050. just wondering if this is a good fit for the soon-to-be rebuilt C5?

I don't know about your C5 but mine isn't overly endowed with power, starts easy and runs fairly good but isn't a powerhouse. Mine has a 20" bar on it and it seems plenty. Yours may be better?

I just looked it up and they're 77cc. Hmmm, maybe mine needs a little work...

yeah, i'm rebuilding mine from the ground up i.e.- seals, rings, gaskets, etc.; bearings appear to be in good shape. hoping its got good power. according to Acres it takes a 12" to a 30". won't know until i get it finished but don't want to bog it down with a bar too big.

If you're rebuilding it with new rings, seals, etc........then a 24" bar will be fine. My C-5 wears a 21" hardnose and Oregon 27 .404-.063G semi-chisel. The largest bar I've ran on a C-5 is a 26". That was about the limit for that saw running .404 when burried. It was in good running condition, but not as fresh as when it left the factory. Grab that 24" bar. .063G is good on a hardnose as you can run either .404-.063G or 3/8-.063G chain just by changing sprockets. Both chain types are plentiful and relatively cheap still.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

If you're rebuilding it with new rings, seals, etc........then a 24" bar will be fine. My C-5 wears a 21" hardnose and Oregon 27 .404-.063G semi-chisel. The largest bar I've ran on a C-5 is a 26". That was about the limit for that saw running .404 when burried. It was in good running condition, but not as fresh as when it left the factory. Grab that 24" bar. .063G is good on a hardnose as you can run either .404-.063G or 3/8-.063G chain just by changing sprockets. Both chain types are plentiful and relatively cheap still.

thanks much. that's what i hoped.

 

[MEATSAW]

5/16-24.

Interesting, the IPL I looked at says 3/8-24. Did they change sizes like they did the bar studs?

 

[Eccentric]

Interesting, the IPL I looked at says 3/8-24. Did they change sizes like they did the bar studs?

I only checked one IPL (was a LATE one, for the saws with electronic ign and the all-plastic manual oiler plunger). I just now checked several earlier IPL's (down to 1965) and they all show the same 5/16-24 nut for the flywheel.


I'm thinking you may have accidentally looked at the listing for the bar nuts in the IPL. Like you said, they did change those early on...

 

[MEATSAW]

I see where the confusion might be. The IPL I have for UT #10045 on page 7-8 (ref #13, part #81124) shows the clutch nut as a 3/8-24. However as you said on page 11-12 (ref #5, part #81117) it shows the flywheel nut as a 5/16-24. I was looking for the clutch nut. Are they usually the same?

 

[Eccentric]

I see where the confusion might be. The IPL I have for UT #10045 on page 7-8 (ref #13, part #81124) shows the clutch nut as a 3/8-24. However as you said on page 11-12 (ref #5, part #81117) it shows the flywheel nut as a 5/16-24. I was looking for the clutch nut. Are they usually the same?

Oh crap. It's I who screwed up. I was answering a question you didn't ask. The CLUTCH side is indeed 3/8-24 for all the saws in this series. Regular RH thread (they get by with a locknut). I was looking at the flywheel side for some unknown reason....:bang:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Same problem-different day

Now that it's a warm day I decided to tear into that stubborn 240 again. I have it running now after shuffling carb kits around and about a half hour of adjusting, only to find the clutch sticking, runs the chain all the time even at idle. I tore into that and found the clutch springs missing, all of them, so I repaired that and now after running it for a few minutes I notice that the chain is not oiling. I took the oiler out, replaced the line going into the tank, cleaned the filter, took the oiler apart and cleaned it, put it all back together and noticed it's still not oiling! I replaced the oil with motor oil, cleaned the bar so I'm stuck on this project again. Does anybody know how that oiler is supposed to work? The nozzle on the pump from the tank is clear, you can blow through it but the one to the bar, you can blow through it a little but it isn't easy, and the big nozzle from the crankcase to the pump is clear. Before I tore into it I noticed a little bit of oil on the bar where the oil line goes but afterward I didn't see any on the chain. I'd like to repair it if I can but if I can't I may enter it in the "Wild Thing toss".

 

[gomlin]

So my XP 1020 had spark but no fuel flow. So I rebuilt the carb...now I have a wet plug and no spark. The plug boot was very loose so I took it off and am gonna replace it. While messing with the plug wire, I discovered it's sheathing was coming off. My question is anything special about that wire or standard plug wire? And how do I connect it to the spring thingy inside the replacement plug boot? I know to pull wire thru, just not sure if it goes between the spring coils or whatever before pushing it back into the boot.

Sent from my HTC EVO via Tapatalk

 

[Showme]

Super XL LE

I've got a blue Super XL (LE) and don't know what the correct color of the air filter cover should be. It looks to be black but I see traces of a metallic blue. Just wondered what a clean original was supposed to look like.

 

[8433jeff]

Now that it's a warm day I decided to tear into that stubborn 240 again. I have it running now after shuffling carb kits around and about a half hour of adjusting, only to find the clutch sticking, runs the chain all the time even at idle. I tore into that and found the clutch springs missing, all of them, so I repaired that and now after running it for a few minutes I notice that the chain is not oiling. I took the oiler out, replaced the line going into the tank, cleaned the filter, took the oiler apart and cleaned it, put it all back together and noticed it's still not oiling! I replaced the oil with motor oil, cleaned the bar so I'm stuck on this project again. Does anybody know how that oiler is supposed to work? The nozzle on the pump from the tank is clear, you can blow through it but the one to the bar, you can blow through it a little but it isn't easy, and the big nozzle from the crankcase to the pump is clear. Before I tore into it I noticed a little bit of oil on the bar where the oil line goes but afterward I didn't see any on the chain. I'd like to repair it if I can but if I can't I may enter it in the "Wild Thing toss".

The problem sounds as though its in the line to the bar. The pump will pump, but it won't push much. There is a kink or some other restriction there from your description. Try it without the bar, and if its better, you don't have the right bar or its not lined up. Your guess is as good as mine as to the cause of that.

 

[buzz sawyer]

So my XP 1020 had spark but no fuel flow. So I rebuilt the carb...now I have a wet plug and no spark. The plug boot was very loose so I took it off and am gonna replace it. While messing with the plug wire, I discovered it's sheathing was coming off. My question is anything special about that wire or standard plug wire? And how do I connect it to the spring thingy inside the replacement plug boot? I know to pull wire thru, just not sure if it goes between the spring coils or whatever before pushing it back into the boot.

Sent from my HTC EVO via Tapatalk

I've just used standard wire plugwires. Might make some noise in nearby AM radios. The spring contact should have a piece with an angle on it extending from one end - it pierces into the wire and the center of the coils go over the top of the sparkplug. You should be able to install the spring and then insert into the boot but you can also pull the wire through, install the spring, then pull it back into the boot. Use some dielectric silicone grease to allow the wire to slide more easily and go easy - the spring can come off while pulling the wire back through. That's why I like to install the spring contact first and then insert the wire.

 

[MEATSAW]

SXL still fighting me

Son of a #####. So I had to replace the fuel line on my SXL and purchased a new line/filter. The old setup was a tygon line with grommets. The new setup is a black rubber hose that requires no grommets to seal the tank. Unfortunately when I installed it this evening the inlet nozzle on the carb is too small for the size of the fuel line. Its not tight enough and sucks air when you hook everything up. So what do I do? I can't replace the carb nozzle so I guess I have to go back to a tygon line?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The problem sounds as though its in the line to the bar. The pump will pump, but it won't push much. There is a kink or some other restriction there from your description. Try it without the bar, and if its better, you don't have the right bar or its not lined up. Your guess is as good as mine as to the cause of that.

I believe it's the Homelite bar that came with it when new. I'm pretty familiar with these saws and it's definitely a 240 bar but I haven't checked to see if that line is stopped up or not. It feels like the pump is stopped up. I should have soaked the pump in Simple Green or something when I had it off but I thought it might be ok. The diaphragm is good in the pump. Supposed to be warm again tomorrow, I'll probably tear it down again. At least it's running now. So far I've got about $2 in the saw and $15000 in labor. If I put this on ebay I'll have to start the bidding at about $800! LOL