A little teaser for Aaron. Not me operating, but it is my 900G last spring. Look at how slow that chain is turning. 36" bar running 1/2" chipper and that monster saw makes it look small.
A great photo Chris.
Chris.
Homelite Chainsaws
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A great photo Chris.
Chris.
A little teaser for Aaron. Not me operating, but it is my 900G last spring. Look at how slow that chain is turning. 36" bar running 1/2" chipper and that monster saw makes it look small.
Wow, it looks like the chain isn't moving at all. :hmm3grin2orange:
still trying to rebuild my dumpster acquired C5. naturally keep running into problems which is totally understandable.
the latest problem regards the fuel tank. i'm on my second tank since the first one had the white death and a hole in it. i'm not ready to try to patch it with JB Weld; not yet anyway. so i got a second tank from an AS member. took it apart, cleaned it up, and began assembling. after applying the motoseal and getting all screws in except one i discovered that apparently that one screw had been broken off in the hole. prolly broke off when i unscrewed it since they all showed proper resistance when unscrewing. grrrrr!
these are small holes so the old ez out trick is going to be difficult at best. also, centering the drill bit is going to be tricky too. so, as i see it, i have four options:
1. drill through the screw and try to snug the tank cover up using a metal screw that fits the "new" hole (this would leave part of the existing screw in the hole which may or may not eventually move)(also don't have a drill press so would have to freehand the drill)
2. repair the existing tank with JB Weld
3. acquire another tank and try again.
4. leave the whole thing in the bucket and forget about it.
no. 4 is not really a viable option since i just can't leave things undone.
nos. 1, 2, 3 are viable but since i already have the tank no. 1 is preferable to me.
anyone got any comments, suggestions, or other useful input?
thanks much, jerry
the latest problem regards the fuel tank. i'm on my second tank since the first one had the white death and a hole in it. i'm not ready to try to patch it with JB Weld; not yet anyway. so i got a second tank from an AS member. took it apart, cleaned it up, and began assembling. after applying the motoseal and getting all screws in except one i discovered that apparently that one screw had been broken off in the hole. prolly broke off when i unscrewed it since they all showed proper resistance when unscrewing. grrrrr!
these are small holes so the old ez out trick is going to be difficult at best. also, centering the drill bit is going to be tricky too. so, as i see it, i have four options:
1. drill through the screw and try to snug the tank cover up using a metal screw that fits the "new" hole (this would leave part of the existing screw in the hole which may or may not eventually move)(also don't have a drill press so would have to freehand the drill)
2. repair the existing tank with JB Weld
3. acquire another tank and try again.
4. leave the whole thing in the bucket and forget about it.
no. 4 is not really a viable option since i just can't leave things undone.
nos. 1, 2, 3 are viable but since i already have the tank no. 1 is preferable to me.
anyone got any comments, suggestions, or other useful input?
thanks much, jerry
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Man that sucks Jerry. This is the one BIG flaw in the otherwise excellent C/XP series design. Which screw broke? I'd be inclined to run a good bead of motoseal, assemble the thing with all the remaining screws, use a clamp to apply preasure at the broken screw location, let it set up good, then run the sucker. If you have a good continuous bead of motoseal at that location and you let it propperly cure, my bet is the tank will hold fine. When I seal up my remaining C-5, that's what I'm going to do if one of those damn little screws breaks...
its one of those up near the top. still pondering how to handle it though.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I'd goop it, get is clamped and screwed together good, then run it after some cure time.
I'm also surprised it broke a screw, as somebody had that tank apart at some point. The home-made gasket that was in there makes that obvious. Looked like that 'fix' had been there for decades however....
C5 fuel tank leak.
A screw left out at the top will likely just seep a bit.
Mine has a tiny leak at the bottom putting him in the 'run and dump' catagory.
Aaron:
Had the chain too tight and it takes lots of pumping to get the oiler working after he sits a spell.
Will give him another try along with my XL-800 after my forearms recover.
A screw left out at the top will likely just seep a bit.
Mine has a tiny leak at the bottom putting him in the 'run and dump' catagory.
Aaron:
Had the chain too tight and it takes lots of pumping to get the oiler working after he sits a spell.
Will give him another try along with my XL-800 after my forearms recover.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
You may want to check the oiler pickup line in the tank (if you haven't already..........I can't remember). They have a tendancey to bung up with chips/tree needles and such.
corsair4360
ArboristSite Member
Broken C5/XP Gas Tank Screw
I would suggest using Yamabond or Hondabond (similar stuff) which is an anaerobic setting sealant used in cars motorcycles and that stuff sticks like no tomorrow. You can get the parts apart but not easily after assembly and curing. Especially at the top that should work fine.
I would suggest using Yamabond or Hondabond (similar stuff) which is an anaerobic setting sealant used in cars motorcycles and that stuff sticks like no tomorrow. You can get the parts apart but not easily after assembly and curing. Especially at the top that should work fine.
it was really clean inside and the shaped fuel line still felt firm. i replaced it and the filter anyway with new line and filter. prolly coulda been run just like it was. yeah, that gasket was kinda odd. someone coulda trimmed it anyway. looks like two of the screws aren't OEM and are a little bigger than OEM. one of those is the one that broke. that's why i'm thinking of drilling it out.
you think those are better than motoseal?
If you need to, because of stripped or buggered threads, you can take them out to #8-32 tpi. Use fillister head screws for clearence.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I was thinking about doing that same thing with my C-5, and using either fillister or socket head screws. The fillister head screws would look more 'correct' however. Either would work fine.
Fillister head are not easy to find.
If you need some, I must have a double handfull of them. Left over from something my dad once worked on.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Same stuff, six of one, half dozen of the other.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
I don't look at screws whilst making chips, specially with someone elses saw.
As we said in the home building industry, "It ain't gonna be a church, not until after the remodel anyway."
I have a C5 and a also have a C7 that I saved for parts. I lost a screw out of the C5 tank and though I'd use one out of the C7 and noticed the C7 screws were slightly bigger but would actually fit in the hole only tighter than the originals. The heads of the screws were about the same size.
MEATSAW
ArboristSite Guru
So this SXL I am putting together was leaking some serious fuel when I filled her up. At first I freaked out and got kinda pissed. After not even looking at it for a few days tonight I decided to try and figure out where it was leaking before any more frustration. Thankfully it turns out its something really simple and needing to be done anyway: replace the fuel line and filter. There is a little grommet where the line goes into the tank that is not sealed very well and fuel just easily leaks out. I have been searching the interwebz for a replacement but none of them have this double grommet (one on tank, one on carb box) set up. I attached a picture below. The IPL I have doesn't really show anything helpful. Suggestions?
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
There is a molded one-piece fuel line that replaces the line and grommet. Available from Oregon and Stens.
So this SXL I am putting together was leaking some serious fuel when I filled her up. At first I freaked out and got kinda pissed. After not even looking at it for a few days tonight I decided to try and figure out where it was leaking before any more frustration. Thankfully it turns out its something really simple and needing to be done anyway: replace the fuel line and filter. There is a little grommet where the line goes into the tank that is not sealed very well and fuel just easily leaks out. I have been searching the interwebz for a replacement but none of them have this double grommet (one on tank, one on carb box) set up. I attached a picture below. The IPL I have doesn't really show anything helpful. Suggestions?
I think the black fuel line that originally came on that saw was slightly larger in outside diameter than what you're using. An easy fix if you don't want to buy the molded line is a piece of heat shrink tubing placed over the line where it goes through the grommets, shrunk down over the line, use the "hair dryer" gun to shrink it down then a little silicone spray to allow it to easily slide through grommets.
