I've used Blue Locktite before on things like this, don't use the Red!
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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I've used Blue Locktite before on things like this, don't use the Red!
Nice I have a 360, I like that saw a lot. Some on the site don't, but I think its a fine 57cc saw.
corsair4360
ArboristSite Member
Super XL Nut
That is called a split beam nut, the splits are slots so the segments can be slightly pushed in so as to create a locknut. There are multiple kinds of nuts like that, and I do not recall seeing one in a long time. My old XP1000 had one to hold the drum and sprocket on the crankshaft.
Those kinds of nuts and nyloc's if you check on aviation specifications are one use only, which is not realistic for most uses, but gives you an idea that the "spring" or locking effect is not permanent. Five or six uses is all they should be trusted for on a chainsaw.
I do not have handy the thread per inch or diameter, but I am sure you can at places like MSC Supply find nuts of that nature. Here is one that is close to my recollection, all steel, most likely not the size you need, from MSC Industrial Supply product number MSC #: 67515882. The only challenge is that they are in quantities of 100 minimum.
That is called a split beam nut, the splits are slots so the segments can be slightly pushed in so as to create a locknut. There are multiple kinds of nuts like that, and I do not recall seeing one in a long time. My old XP1000 had one to hold the drum and sprocket on the crankshaft.
Those kinds of nuts and nyloc's if you check on aviation specifications are one use only, which is not realistic for most uses, but gives you an idea that the "spring" or locking effect is not permanent. Five or six uses is all they should be trusted for on a chainsaw.
I do not have handy the thread per inch or diameter, but I am sure you can at places like MSC Supply find nuts of that nature. Here is one that is close to my recollection, all steel, most likely not the size you need, from MSC Industrial Supply product number MSC #: 67515882. The only challenge is that they are in quantities of 100 minimum.
924w
Came home with this in my trunk today. Have'nt gone over it yet but it fires, and has a fuel leak somewhere. Its missing the spike and could probably use a new air filter, but it's pretty clean for almost 35 years old. It also has a full wrap to boot. Anyone fill me in on what the W designation is for? Now there are two 5ci saws in the stable. :msp_biggrin:
Came home with this in my trunk today. Have'nt gone over it yet but it fires, and has a fuel leak somewhere. Its missing the spike and could probably use a new air filter, but it's pretty clean for almost 35 years old. It also has a full wrap to boot. Anyone fill me in on what the W designation is for? Now there are two 5ci saws in the stable. :msp_biggrin:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Nice score! That's the first time I've seen that bottom outlet muffler with the 'solid' (unvented) cover. The clutch cover also has a chip chute extension cast into the back of it that directs the chips past the muffler. Cool. I see that the clutch cover has the hole bored into it by those damn little clutch plate screws that back out. Happens very frequently. You've got the full-wrap and the 'clutch cover extension' (finger protector) that goes with it. The extension is usually missing. Looks like your carb screws are a wee bit loose. Somebody must've been tinkering with the carb. Overall, that's a very clean saw. Congratulations. I believe the "W" stands for "Western". Saws built for the PNW market. That would explain the full-wrap, and possibly the unique muffler and clutch cover. Could be wrong however....
Homie 300
I've got a chance to buy a 300 for little money. Currently not running, probably fuel lines carb etc. I think I'll get it if the comp is OK. I don't know much about this saw other than what is on Acres site.
Any opinions out there? I've learned so much on this site all ideas welcome
Lee
I've got a chance to buy a 300 for little money. Currently not running, probably fuel lines carb etc. I think I'll get it if the comp is OK. I don't know much about this saw other than what is on Acres site.
Any opinions out there? I've learned so much on this site all ideas welcome
Lee
I've got a chance to buy a 300 for little money. Currently not running, probably fuel lines carb etc. I think I'll get it if the comp is OK. I don't know much about this saw other than what is on Acres site.
Any opinions out there? I've learned so much on this site all ideas welcome
Lee
Never seen one around here. I'd go for it! Looks like a nice saw, modern design, should be easy enough to work on.
Thanks for the info. I will have to find a spike for it, as they seem to be specific to that series and model of saw. The "W" at least. I will get a small one off here or ebay when i get a chance in the mean time. I have to cehck out this fuel system, it looks like someone reengineered the fuel pipe and inlet to the tank.
ETA: Someone put a new style tygon line in the tank and siliconed the 90 degree bend in the metal line to the hole where is goes into the tank. I came across some information about doing away with the small intermediate section of metal line mounted on the the clutch side of the case. Supposedly there is a TSB from homelite that describes how to eliminate the metal line and just run one standard fuel line from the filter to the carb. Anyone have a copy of the TSB or know where i can locate one?
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watsonr
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stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hate working on saws for friends
I have a homelite 240 that I'm fixing for a friend. He brought it to me with no spark. I had an electronic coil off of a trimmer that I swapped onto the homelite laminates. Pulled the rope with the plug laying on the muffer and it had a nice fat blue spark. Put the plug in and tried to start the saw. Every time the saw hits it almost rips the cord from my hand. It's like the spark is way too advanced. So I got another electronic coil from a friend that came off of a homelite and tried that. The saw is doing the same thing. I have never had this happen before when swapping an electronic coil. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I have a homelite 240 that I'm fixing for a friend. He brought it to me with no spark. I had an electronic coil off of a trimmer that I swapped onto the homelite laminates. Pulled the rope with the plug laying on the muffer and it had a nice fat blue spark. Put the plug in and tried to start the saw. Every time the saw hits it almost rips the cord from my hand. It's like the spark is way too advanced. So I got another electronic coil from a friend that came off of a homelite and tried that. The saw is doing the same thing. I have never had this happen before when swapping an electronic coil. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Did you try a coil off a 240 or something else? I think some of the trimmer engines are reverse rotation from a chainsaw engine.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have tried three coils now. One was off of a trimmer, another off another homelite saw (don't remember the model), and the last one came off a box store junk saw. I am getting the same results with all. I haven't removed the flywheel, but I am wondering if that has slipped on the crank....????
if all three coils are good, that would be a simple place to look. do the coil configurations match up with the one that came off the saw? ie - does the magnetic field from the flywheel pass through the coil with the same timing?
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I used the laminates from the 240 coil in all three coils that I have tried. So the flywheel still passed by the laminates at the same time as before. I guess that's what you mean by the magnets passing by at the same time.
i would quiz my friend for what happened immediately before spark disappeared. are you sure the coil that was on it is OEM? or just check the shear key. sounds plausible
It's possible it sheared the key and slipped a little, maybe you also could have some fuel build up inside the engine from it not firing, just guessing at this point. Sometimes I've found it easier to take the muffler off and try it. If the muffler is full of oil and fuel it pulls it back in the engine, taking it off eliminates that. After it's run awhile you can put it back.
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8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
I agree as far as the key. The muffler should already be off to make sure nothing else is in there causing mayhem or ruckus. If its sucking back through the muffler, there are other issues.
Generally, when these engines have a decent fuel system and it's not firing, the fuel ends up in the muffler. Two cycle engines do pull stuff in from the exhaust when the piston goes down and if the muffler has gas in it it tends to cause an over-rich condition.
MEATSAW
ArboristSite Guru
Finally got my SXL into some wood today! Its been 2 months since I bought it...yeesh about dang time. All the experts were right: it doesn't have the RPMs that the 10-10 does but it does have the bottom end grunt when you start burying the 20" bar. The SXL did better in the big wood, while the 10-10 prevailed in the small stuff. Man I love these things. The SXL has a totally different sound to it. Different feel. Doesn't seem that heavy actually. I might be grabbing the SXL a lot more now than anything else 
The SXL is a great saw. I picked up another one 3 weeks ago, has some light scoring but the saw is in too good shape to become a parts mule.
