Homelite Chainsaws

[ChainLightning]

Just paper? Not sand paper? What's points gap supposed to be set to?

Pull the motor out of the case and take out the spark plug. Put a piece of rope down the spark plug hole and leave a few inches of it out of the hole so you can pull it back out. (This stops the piston and crankshaft from moving) Then take off the nut that is holding on the flywheel. If the flywheel does not slide right off, then tap it a few times with a ball pein hammer on the NON MAGNETIC side. After this it should come off. Becareful not to knock off any of the fins.
To clean the points take a piece of printer paper and cut it into thin strips. Take the rope out of your cylinder and turn the crankshaft till the point opens, the stick that piece of paper in between the two openings. Turn the shaft till the point completely closes, then pull the strip of paper twords you. You should see a black or green residue on that paper. Repeat this step till the paper comes out white.
As what Palmer Jr. said, you might need to use some very fine sandpaper if the printer paper is not enough. But the paper usually is enough unless they are really dirty. As for setting the points...I have no clue what the proper setting is, but you will need a feeler gauge. Good luck. If you need any more help just give me a buzz.

Also, if you even get as much as a piece of sand or a drop of oil on those points, then they will not work. They have to be 100% clean. Metal to Metal. So check back and just make sure before you put it back together.

 

[wendell]

Finally snapped a couple pics of my new saw and was all excited to post them and then Fraser goes and post his new 650.

I was going to say I like my new saw because if I squint really hard I can pretend it is a 650 or 750 but that really doesn't work, does it? :msp_unsure:

 

[ChainLightning]

Finally snapped a couple pics of my new saw and was all excited to post them and then Fraser goes and post his new 650.

I was going to say I like my new saw because if I squint really hard I can pretend it is a 650 or 750 but that really doesn't work, does it? :msp_unsure:

And if I Squint hard enough, I can pretend that my 330 is your 360

 

[BroncoRN]

Pull the motor out of the case and take out the spark plug. Put a piece of rope down the spark plug hole and leave a few inches of it out of the hole so you can pull it back out. (This stops the piston and crankshaft from moving) Then take off the nut that is holding on the flywheel. If the flywheel does not slide right off, then tap it a few times with a ball pein hammer on the NON MAGNETIC side. After this it should come off. Becareful not to knock off any of the fins.
To clean the points take a piece of printer paper and cut it into thin strips. Take the rope out of your cylinder and turn the crankshaft till the point opens, the stick that piece of paper in between the two openings. Turn the shaft till the point completely closes, then pull the strip of paper twords you. You should see a black or green residue on that paper. Repeat this step till the paper comes out white.
As what Palmer Jr. said, you might need to use some very fine sandpaper if the printer paper is not enough. But the paper usually is enough unless they are really dirty. As for setting the points...I have no clue what the proper setting is, but you will need a feeler gauge. Good luck. If you need any more help just give me a buzz.

Also, if you even get as much as a piece of sand or a drop of oil on those points, then they will not work. They have to be 100% clean. Metal to Metal. So check back and just make sure before you put it back together.

I tried today. Still no dice.

 

[leecopland]

I just picked up 2 XLs and a Craftsman 2.3/38 for $25.00. The best XL has 150lbs comp but no spark. It is fitted with the Wico points ignition. I would like to check the points under the flywheel. Do you need a puller to remove the flywheel. I removed the nut that holds it on but it won't move. This one came with a 20"bar and a used up chain. It will need at least new lines, new filters and a carb kit. But don't want to invest if I can't get spark. The other XL has spark but only 90 lbs comp. It's ign is the Phelon version and I think I could do a swap if I can't get the Wico to work.

Are we having fun yet!


Leeuttahere2:

I still haven't been able to get the flywheel off, but I have ordered longer bolts for my puller. In the meantime I pulled the Zama off the one with lower compression, cleaned it, no kit to hand, put it back on with the reed box from the better one. It's reed box was filthy because they ran the saw without an air filter or H&L grommet, lots of filth! Put new line and filter in and after a few pulls away she went! Great feeling when a near freeby comes to life! The treads on the clutch shaft don't look very good so may have to part this one out once I get the better one going.

The fun continues. My sister just bought me a Super Mini for my birthday. Looks pretty good in the photo.
:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[watsonr]

Who got the 750 out of Boise ID... for $50???

 

[ChainLightning]

I tried today. Still no dice.

If this was in person then I could help you...but its not to easy over a screen . What was wrong with the electronic ignition Super 2?

 

[BroncoRN]

I still haven't been able to get the flywheel off, but I have ordered longer bolts for my puller. In the meantime I pulled the Zama off the one with lower compression, cleaned it, no kit to hand, put it back on with the reed box from the better one. It's reed box was filthy because they ran the saw without an air filter or H&L grommet, lots of filth! Put new line and filter in and after a few pulls away she went! Great feeling when a near freeby comes to life! The treads on the clutch shaft don't look very good so may have to part this one out once I get the better one going.

The fun continues. My sister just bought me a Super Mini for my birthday. Looks pretty good in the photo.
:hmm3grin2orange:

Remove nut and washer from flywheel. Hold saw up by handle and tap non magnet side of flywheel with hammer or tap threaded end of crank and flywheel will fall off.

 

[BroncoRN]

If this was in person then I could help you...but its not to easy over a screen . What was wrong with the electronic ignition Super 2?

Electronic flywheel is different than points. The shroud around points won't let flywheel seat properly.

 

[Eccentric]

Who got the 750 out of Boise ID... for $50???

Holy crap Randy. It'll be on feebay for $500 soon probably.....

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Remove nut and washer from flywheel. Hold saw up by handle and tap non magnet side of flywheel with hammer or tap threaded end of crank and flywheel will fall off.

if you tap on the threaded end of crank - BE SURE to put the flywheel retaining nut on first, run it on until it is even with the end of the crank, then "tap".
the nut does two things for you:
1. it keeps you from buggering up the end of the crank and threads
2. it keeps the flywheel from falling off and hitting the floor.
btw, tippy tapping never helps me. i use a 3# hammer and tap it with authority. never fails. just don't go nuclear on it. remember that the shock you impart to the crank is transmitted to the rest of the saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

if you tap on the threaded end of crank - BE SURE to put the flywheel retaining nut on first, run it on until it is even with the end of the crank, then "tap".
the nut does two things for you:
1. it keeps you from buggering up the end of the crank and threads
2. it keeps the flywheel from falling off and hitting the floor.
btw, tippy tapping never helps me. i use a 3# hammer and tap it with authority. never fails. just don't go nuclear on it. remember that the shock you impart to the crank is transmitted to the rest of the saw.

You'd better try tapping on the non-magnetic edge of the flywheel first with the nut about half on, that way the flywheel won't fall on the floor and break. Don't tap on the end of the crankshaft unless it's a last resort.

 

[C SAW 090]

Was moving things around in the garage and came across this old Homelite generator, It ran and made power last time I started it up, it runs backwards! I had forgot I even had it! Anyone know the vintage of this old thing? Thanx

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Super EZ

I have a saw that's been giving me a hard time, it's a Homelite Super EZ. The saw seemingly has good compression and will start but won't idle well and eventually quits but will restart and do the same thing. It seems to be a fuel problem so I cleaned the carb twice, put a new kit in it, blew through the fuel line and it was clear, filled it with fresh fuel and it did the same thing. I took care when rebuilding the carb to get the inlet lever right per the W gauge, turned the H and L screws one turn each and tried readjusting them a little both ways with not much better improvement. I looked through the muffler and the piston and rings look like new so I don't think that's the problem. What do you think I should try next. Someone told me to try a different carburetor so I may do that next unless someone has a better idea.

 

[psuiewalsh]

I have a saw that's been giving me a hard time, it's a Homelite Super EZ. The saw seemingly has good compression and will start but won't idle well and eventually quits but will restart and do the same thing. It seems to be a fuel problem so I cleaned the carb twice, put a new kit in it, blew through the fuel line and it was clear, filled it with fresh fuel and it did the same thing. I took care when rebuilding the carb to get the inlet lever right per the W gauge, turned the H and L screws one turn each and tried readjusting them a little both ways with not much better improvement. I looked through the muffler and the piston and rings look like new so I don't think that's the problem. What do you think I should try next. Someone told me to try a different carburetor so I may do that next unless someone has a better idea.

That sounds exactly like the xl-103 that I sent to Eccentric. I was hoping that he would find out what I was missing. I even put a known good carb on it and no difference. It just seemed to run out of fuel. I checked the impulse passage from the saw and it seemed like it was not blocked. Spark seemed good. It would just die out. I did have a new fuel line on it too and would see an air bubble that did not want to clear out which also led me to believe that it was not pumping gas into the carb the way that it should.

 

[Eccentric]

Was moving things around in the garage and came across this old Homelite generator, It ran and made power last time I started it up, it runs backwards! I had forgot I even had it! Anyone know the vintage of this old thing? Thanx

Looking at the tag I see it's pre-Textron, so that makes it early 1950's or older. My guess is early 1950's. IIRC, the WWII era Maxon Manufacturing Co built quad .50 cal anti-aircraft mount system used a Homelite generator similar to yours to power it when it wasn't being powered by an external power source (such as a vehicle).:cool2:

M45 Quadmount - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have a saw that's been giving me a hard time, it's a Homelite Super EZ. The saw seemingly has good compression and will start but won't idle well and eventually quits but will restart and do the same thing. It seems to be a fuel problem so I cleaned the carb twice, put a new kit in it, blew through the fuel line and it was clear, filled it with fresh fuel and it did the same thing. I took care when rebuilding the carb to get the inlet lever right per the W gauge, turned the H and L screws one turn each and tried readjusting them a little both ways with not much better improvement. I looked through the muffler and the piston and rings look like new so I don't think that's the problem. What do you think I should try next. Someone told me to try a different carburetor so I may do that next unless someone has a better idea.

That sounds exactly like the xl-103 that I sent to Eccentric. I was hoping that he would find out what I was missing. I even put a known good carb on it and no difference. It just seemed to run out of fuel. I checked the impulse passage from the saw and it seemed like it was not blocked. Spark seemed good. It would just die out. I did have a new fuel line on it too and would see an air bubble that did not want to clear out which also led me to believe that it was not pumping gas into the carb the way that it should.

I'll get to the bottom of it soon Keith. There are a few projects ahead of that one.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That sounds exactly like the xl-103 that I sent to Eccentric. I was hoping that he would find out what I was missing. I even put a known good carb on it and no difference. It just seemed to run out of fuel. I checked the impulse passage from the saw and it seemed like it was not blocked. Spark seemed good. It would just die out. I did have a new fuel line on it too and would see an air bubble that did not want to clear out which also led me to believe that it was not pumping gas into the carb the way that it should.

I looked at the fuel line today and didn't see anything wrong with it but replaced it anyway, the filter looked like a new one. Still haven't tried it again.

While taking the starter cover off to change the fuel line I noticed something different on the ignition system, now I'm wondering if someone put something like a module on the ignition. From the way the saw runs I'm still thinking it seems like something in the fuel system, maybe need to do a pressure test on the engine?

 

[ChainLightning]

I have a saw that's been giving me a hard time, it's a Homelite Super EZ. The saw seemingly has good compression and will start but won't idle well and eventually quits but will restart and do the same thing. It seems to be a fuel problem so I cleaned the carb twice, put a new kit in it, blew through the fuel line and it was clear, filled it with fresh fuel and it did the same thing. I took care when rebuilding the carb to get the inlet lever right per the W gauge, turned the H and L screws one turn each and tried readjusting them a little both ways with not much better improvement. I looked through the muffler and the piston and rings look like new so I don't think that's the problem. What do you think I should try next. Someone told me to try a different carburetor so I may do that next unless someone has a better idea.

Thats funny. I put in a new carb kit in my Super EZ Auto a year ago and gave it a tune up. After that it ran flawlessly. I only used it like 5 times since then. Busted it out 2 weeks ago because I had a small tree to cut. started up fine and ran very good except for idling. Every time I cut off a branch off and let off the gas, it would die. But after that, 1 pull and it would fire right back up. I didn't have time to mess with the idle screw because a storm was coming and I had to hurry. Ill have to pull it back out this weekend and mess with it. Hopefully the idle screw is only to far out. Hopefully... Another problem I had with it is where the handle bar mounts on is cracked. Still holds but wiggles quite a bit. Gonna either JB Weld it or buy a new assembly piece. Let me know what you find out is wrong with yours. Would like to know.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

what kinda carb you got on that? i'm replacing a carb on a different branded saw cause that's what the problem is. even after rebuilding and recleaning numerous times. mine was a walbro wt-20. if you've got a known good carb you might try swapping it.

 

[ChainLightning]

what kinda carb you got on that? i'm replacing a carb on a different branded saw cause that's what the problem is. even after rebuilding and recleaning numerous times. mine was a walbro wt-20. if you've got a known good carb you might try swapping it.

I think the one on my Super EZ was a HDC