Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

I think the one on my Super EZ was a HDC

That's what mine is too, Walbro HDC. I'll try to mess with it a little tomorrow, wife's got Saturday tied up for me and I go to look for chainsaws on Sunday bright and early. I had a Poulan 306 that wouldn't run well and it turned out to be a broken reed valve so I might look there also.

 

[ChainLightning]

That's what mine is too, Walbro HDC. I'll try to mess with it a little tomorrow, wife's got Saturday tied up for me and I go to look for chainsaws on Sunday bright and early. I had a Poulan 306 that wouldn't run well and it turned out to be a broken reed valve so I might look there also.

What year is yours?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

What year is yours?

The serial number is: 272370153. Is it 1977? I think I read the chart right..

 

[ChainLightning]

The serial number is: 272370153. Is it 1977? I think I read the chart right..

Then you know it has points. Mines a 1980 and it has points.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Then you know it has points. Mines a 1980 and it has points.

Except I don't think mine has points, I think it has been changed over. I noticed a little postage stamp sized module wired into it. I'm kinda wondering if that might be part of my problem.

 

[psuiewalsh]

That's what mine is too, Walbro HDC. I'll try to mess with it a little tomorrow, wife's got Saturday tied up for me and I go to look for chainsaws on Sunday bright and early. I had a Poulan 306 that wouldn't run well and it turned out to be a broken reed valve so I might look there also.

Now that is something I did not check. The reed block never had to come out on that saw by design to pull the carb.

 

[ChainLightning]

Except I don't think mine has points, I think it has been changed over. I noticed a little postage stamp sized module wired into it. I'm kinda wondering if that might be part of my problem.

Might be. I'd do some research on that.

 

[Arrowhead]

Super EZ Western kit

I picked up this NOS Western kit for a Super EZ. I've seen a couple EZ's with a full wrap before, but this is the first kit I've come across. I thought I'd share the info.

 

[ChainLightning]

330 Finally Finished

Hey guys, jut figured that i'd announce that I just finished my 330. It only needed the boot, but when I was tearing it down, I dropped some sawdust down the intake on accident. So I pulled it all apart. I noticed that the piston, cylinder, and rings almost looked new, but the crank seals were getting really worn. So I bought new seals while I was at it. After all that stuff came in the mail, I put her all back together. I was also surprised on how the lines were in good shape. The boot was melted though. Overall I paid $1 for the saw, $20 for the seals, $10 for the boot, and $3 for a new plug. So all together in in about $35. Still a better saw than any Poulan Pro or Wild Thing for $100 with a non adjustable carb.
I was also surprised on how much of a pain this thing was to put back together :bang: Just gonna take it to the Stihl dealer tomorrow to have em do a tune-up on it. Wanna keep that piston, cylinder, and rings looking new and not all scratched up!!! would post some pics but we have all seen over a million of them 330s.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Well, I didn't get as much done to the Super EZ today as I wanted to but I did manage to find a couple or three spare parts carburetors and I'm soaking them in carb cleaner right now, thinking about trying to make one good HDC to try on my saw. I've got a funny feeling that the saw may run the same as it does now when I'm finished but at least that'll be one thing out of the way.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hey guys, jut figured that i'd announce that I just finished my 330. It only needed the boot, but when I was tearing it down, I dropped some sawdust down the intake on accident. So I pulled it all apart. I noticed that the piston, cylinder, and rings almost looked new, but the crank seals were getting really worn. So I bought new seals while I was at it. After all that stuff came in the mail, I put her all back together. I was also surprised on how the lines were in good shape. The boot was melted though. Overall I paid $1 for the saw, $20 for the seals, $10 for the boot, and $3 for a new plug. So all together in in about $35. Still a better saw than any Poulan Pro or Wild Thing for $100 with a non adjustable carb.
I was also surprised on how much of a pain this thing was to put back together :bang: Just gonna take it to the Stihl dealer tomorrow to have em do a tune-up on it. Wanna keep that piston, cylinder, and rings looking new and not all scratched up!!! would post some pics but we have all seen over a million of them 330s.

After you did all the hard work why are you taking it to the Stihl dealer? They'll probably just do the same thing you or I would only charge you a bunch for labor.. There's not much to tuning a saw, new sparkplug, carb kit, cleaning and adjustment. I don't know if they have points or not, either way there's not much to the ignition...

 

[ChainLightning]

After you did all the hard work why are you taking it to the Stihl dealer? They'll probably just do the same thing you or I would only charge you a bunch for labor.. There's not much to tuning a saw, new sparkplug, carb kit, cleaning and adjustment. I don't know if they have points or not, either way there's not much to the ignition...

Just gonna have them adjust the jets. Thats all it needs. They only charge a few bucks to adjust them. Everything else on it I did. I am not good at tuning when it comes to jets. Just soon have a pro do it and do it right.

 

[Eccentric]

Just gonna have them adjust the jets. Thats all it needs. They only charge a few bucks to adjust them. Everything else on it I did. I am not good at tuning when it comes to jets. Just soon have a pro do it and do it right.

Where are you located? If you're close to one of us, we can help you learn to tune it yourself. It ain't hard once you know what to listen for. See my sig line. Teach a man to fish.....

 

[paccity]

question for the homie experts, what other models if any will the carb boot interchange with the super 650. thanks fraser.

 

[Eccentric]

question for the homie experts, what other models if any will the carb boot interchange with the super 650. thanks fraser.

Only the 750 Fraser. Randy Duncan on ebay has newly made boots for the 650/750 saws for sale. They're very high quality. A bit spendy at $25 plus shipping, but I still recomend them. He ships fast too. That's where I got the one I used recently. Other fellows here have used them too.

The smaller '50' series saws (and the 330) all used different boots than the 650/750 (most of which are also available from Randy D. 330 uses it's own boot. 350/360 use another. 450/550 use yet another. Then there's the 650/750.

 

[hoss]

Only the 750 Fraser. Randy Duncan on ebay has newly made boots for the 650/750 saws for sale. They're very high quality. A bit spendy at $25 plus shipping, but I still recomend them. He ships fast too. That's where I got the one I used recently. Other fellows here have used them too.

+1

 

[Eccentric]

Ian that 750's gettin' done today. Will be heading out to the shop (with water, it's HOT today) soon. The kind fellow that sent me the carb box/handle assembly will soon help a second 650/750 owner here with his generosity. I'm sending the comp release/throttle lock internal parts from the cracked carb box/handle assembly to Fraser for his 650 (since the replacement handle/carb box I received also has those parts). He can have the fun of putting them in his handle. Not sure why they were missing from his 650, but that's how he got it...


Fraser here's where those decomp lever/throttle lever parts are coming from. This was a dirty one. Didn't see the crack in the handle casting (or the worn out trigger) until after I got it cleaned up. Now that I have another complete carb box/handle casting assembly for the saw, I'll be back in business. Would've had the saw done last weekend, but life got in the way......

http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/101147-319.htm#post3653687

In that post linked to above, there's a pic of what was left of the old boot next to one of Randy D's new ones.

While I'm editing my post over and over...

Be careful with the AV buffers on that saw when you tear it down to replace the boot. They're complicated, somewhat fragile molded rubber units with a threaded steel cup on one end (threads into the carb box and the tank assemblies) that likes to tear off of the buffers. The other end is a steel plate (also molded into the buffer) with a threaded section in the middle of it. A screw fits through the saw drive cover or crankcase cover (depending on which side of the saw it's on) and then threads into that threaded section of the buffer. You can remove the carb box and tanks without removing the AV buffers (although the SM tells you to remove them).

Just remove the screws, then use a thin screwdriver to pry the steel ends of the buffers away from the part (pyr them towards the center of the carb box or tank assembly) until it slips past the bracket on the drivecase or crankcase cover. The SM tells you to put some grease on the threads of the threaded cup on the buffers before turning them into the parts. This is to prevent electrolitic corrosion.....which locks the threaded cup to the part so that the buffer cannnot be removed from the castings witout tearing. That's probably why they wanted the shops to remove the buffers when taking the saw apart............to grease those threads to prevent corrosion......

 

[paccity]

thanks Aaron, went down that road at 6am this morn.:smile2:. this is what mine looks like.

. oh yea this ran this morn . but not for long. and did your broke have an oiler button.

 

[Eccentric]

thanks Aaron, went down that road at 6am this morn.:smile2:. this is what mine looks like.

. oh yea this ran this morn . but not for long. and did your broke have an oiler button.

Pics didn't work for me Fraser. My broken handle casting had a good oiler button, but I had to use the whole oiler plunger assembly on the replacement handle assembly, as it was missing (the fellow that sent the handle to me used it on another saw). From what I saw in your pic, I believe your plunger is intact........but the button's missing. Maybe you can use a buttom from some other saw plunger (such as an XL-12). If you'd like, I'll carefully pry the button off of an XL-12 plunger and send it with your trigger lock/decomp lever parts.

 

[paccity]

Pics didn't work for me Fraser. My broken handle casting had a good oiler button, but I had to use the whole oiler plunger assembly on the replacement handle assembly, as it was missing (the fellow that sent the handle to me used it on another saw). From what I saw in your pic, I believe your plunger is intact........but the button's missing. Maybe you can use a buttom from some other saw plunger (such as an XL-12). If you'd like, I'll carefully pry the button off of an XL-12 plunger and send it with your trigger lock/decomp lever parts.

thanks Aaron but the shaft is broke off flush. hvn't looked at itclose but it looks like the assy un screws from the handle , am i correct? looks like the muff needs help to. i'll box up the 1120 parts this week end. and randy mc needs to answer his pm so i can send the carb for that monster yellow saw.:msp_wink: