Homelite Chainsaws

[pioneerguy600]

Hey you Homlite guys and especially you 900 series owners, did you guys see the thread I started on the carb troubles on my SXL-925?

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=148412

If not check it out and add your comments to the problem and tell me if anyone else has had any troubles like mine.

I also just posted a Homelite document that was sent to me from Chainsawlady that you guys might be interested in.

Mark! Dang blam it!! You made me pull one of them orange and black things out today and I pulled the carb. I can see right through that durn nozzle, nothing but a jet from what I can see but I got some ideas rolling around in my head now. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[Roanoker494]

26LCS I picked up today for $30

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark! Dang blam it!! You made me pull one of them orange and black things out today and I pulled the carb. I can see right through that durn nozzle, nothing but a jet from what I can see but I got some ideas rolling around in my head now. LOL
Pioneerguy600

Well, at least we know now. I never seen one like that before myself and it had me confused with Tillotson listing it as a check valve. I still don't know why these Homelite guys have not run into this before, or why my saw ran nomally for all that time.

Anxious to hear what those ideas in your head are.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Well, at least we know now. I never seen one like that before myself and it had me confused with Tillotson listing it as a check valve. I still don't know why these Homelite guys have not run into this before, or why my saw ran nomally for all that time.

Anxious to hear what those ideas in your head are.

It might take me some time to get this all ironed out in my head. I looked my carb over from all angles and that jet works pretty well like a govenor used on the Huskvarna saws like the 181. With the throttle plate set close to closed at idle there should be insufficient vacuum to pull fuel up through this jet and distribute it into the slow flowing airstream. The saw should idle running just off the idle jet forward of the throttle plate but it seems that the nozzle jet is supplying fuel at idle speeds thus causing the saw to run too rich at idle.
If the T or LA is set too high then the airflow might just become strong enough to pull a little fuel from this jet, I would set the LA just open enough for the engine to idle and the L just open enough to supply fuel to idle the engine. If these settings were balanced out at their lowest settings possible then that nozzle jet may not flow fuel at low speed. The H needle would still need to be set up so the engine would work properly at WOT and that may be set close to closed. I might be thinking all wrong on this but it seems to make sense to me right now.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Modifiedmark]

It might take me some time to get this all ironed out in my head. I looked my carb over from all angles and that jet works pretty well like a govenor used on the Huskvarna saws like the 181. With the throttle plate set close to closed at idle there should be insufficient vacuum to pull fuel up through this jet and distribute it into the slow flowing airstream. The saw should idle running just off the idle jet forward of the throttle plate but it seems that the nozzle jet is supplying fuel at idle speeds thus causing the saw to run too rich at idle.
If the T or LA is set too high then the airflow might just become strong enough to pull a little fuel from this jet, I would set the LA just open enough for the engine to idle and the L just open enough to supply fuel to idle the engine. If these settings were balanced out at their lowest settings possible then that nozzle jet may not flow fuel at low speed. The H needle would still need to be set up so the engine would work properly at WOT and that may be set close to closed. I might be thinking all wrong on this but it seems to make sense to me right now.
Pioneerguy600

Your making alot of sense. Look also how that carb is mounted metering side down so it wont gravity feed fuel from is as easy maybe?

I think the best idea yet is to just block the damn thing off like I ended up doing.

 

[donthraen]

Your making alot of sense. Look also how that carb is mounted metering side down so it wont gravity feed fuel from is as easy maybe?

I think the best idea yet is to just block the damn thing off like I ended up doing.

I had that problem tried everything new parts and everything then I changed the diofram it works great

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

26LCS I picked up today for $30

Nice saw and a real good deal.

 

[The Fix]

thanks guys!

I did go out and carb clean it with spray. and after some time pulling, I finally got it to light up. however the story isn't a happy ending. I did tune it, but when I turn it off and let it sit starting was a pain and when I went full throttle it bogs down and cuts out.... what went wrong?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Your making alot of sense. Look also how that carb is mounted metering side down so it wont gravity feed fuel from is as easy maybe?

I think the best idea yet is to just block the damn thing off like I ended up doing.

Your fix is probably the best idea, but you know I am a lot like you. If that setup was designed to work originally then I/we can figure out how it should work. The carb setting upside down was a clue to my thinking that the fuel needs to be drawn up by fast flowing air, velocity, so if the fuel level in the carb, governed by the metering diaphragm +needle valve is set correctly then the rest of my post #546 still makes sense to me.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Forgot to mention but I dug out one of the 900 series saws yesterday to pull the carb from it, cleaned up the saw a little and after replacing the carb I tried to start it up, now its been sitting 26 years with no fuel in it but it had a half cup of trans fluid in the gas tank, we all do that in my family when we store vintage chainsaws. Well I dumped that out and added some fresh mix, squirted some mix in the carb throat and it lit up on the second pull, a little smoke for 15 secs or so then cleared right up and runs like it never stopped back in 1984, the last year my FIL worked the woods. Iwill take a couple of picts and post them up.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Modifiedmark]

Your fix is probably the best idea, but you know I am a lot like you. If that setup was designed to work originally then I/we can figure out how it should work. The carb setting upside down was a clue to my thinking that the fuel needs to be drawn up by fast flowing air, velocity, so if the fuel level in the carb, governed by the metering diaphragm +needle valve is set correctly then the rest of my post #546 still makes sense to me.
Pioneerguy600

Yes it makes sense and should/will work fine except the hole in the nozzle was just a hair too big to suite me as it was just a little bit too rich even with the H needle closed.

Like a fixed jet carb, one size does not fit all elevations and such and is why most the time they make a different size jet/nozzle to correct that.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes it makes sense and should/will work fine except the hole in the nozzle was just a hair too big to suite me as it was just a little bit too rich even with the H needle closed.

Like a fixed jet carb, one size does not fit all elevations and such and is why most the time they make a different size jet/nozzle to correct that.

Yup, nothing better for someone that knows how to tune a saw than to have a fully adjustable carb.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Took a couple of picts of the saw I had out to check the carb on for Mark. This was my FIL last new saw before he retired, he is now 87 and has health issues.

Pioneerguy600

 

[Modifiedmark]

I just went out to the barn to play with the 923 and give a good once over.
The clutch looks a little strange, there is a cover screwed on to the area that one would expect to see the shoes...hmmm

I set the compression release and choke and pulled the rope out about 6 inches and the saw started. I pushed the choke back in and let it run for a minute or so. Then I shut it off.

It revs and sounds real good. It has not been a shelf queen the man I bought it from was using it to cut his fire wood.

I can't remember when I had a chain saw start that easy when cold.
I thought "I wonder how hard it is to pull over if I don't use the compression release".........real dumb idea....

I pulled the starter rope and it kind of almost fired, more like backfired....the handle came off in my hand.......82 cc's of high compression motor is no match for 36+ year old starter cord........

This must have happened many times before with this saw. I only have about 15 inches of usable starter cord left on it.

It did start right up after I put the handle back on it and used the compression release.....

Does anyone know how long a cord I should buy to replace the origional one?
:greenchainsaw:

No not off hand, I just wrap em around the pulley till it fills it up.

One other thing on these big saws is to use the correct diameter rope as well. One that is about as wide as the groove in the pulley.

If you use too small of dia of rope, the rope will not wrap on top of each other and will wad up and squeeze the sides of the pulley out and sooner or later will break it.

My 925 is a good example of this. Why these were ever made without a decomp is beyound me. Mine puts out a honest 180lbs compression.

 

[briantutt]

:agree2:

On the rope length

 

[Modifiedmark]

Took a couple of picts of the saw I had out to check the carb on for Mark. This was my FIL last new saw before he retired, he is now 87 and has health issues.

Pioneerguy600

Jerry, thats a nice looking saw!

I can't keep up with all the different model #s they used on the same basic saw!

I'm guessing that 922 might have been a canadian only model number?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry, thats a nice looking saw!

I can't keep up with all the different model #s they used on the same basic saw!

I'm guessing that 922 might have been a canadian only model number?

Mark, I have seen many different #`s 925,923,922,921 all on the same chassis. My FIL ran only homelite for 30 yrs. working the woods, he got them through the mill and logging company he felled for. He also looked after the maintenence on the 50 or so saws the mill owned. The next trip I make up to see him I an going to pick his brain on the Homelite saws although he really sick of running them for over 30 yrs.
Pioneerguy600

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Jerry, thats a nice looking saw!

I can't keep up with all the different model #s they used on the same basic saw!

I'm guessing that 922 might have been a canadian only model number?

That saw looks just like my 944. Seems like mine has a compression release but I'm not sure, been awhile since I had it out.
I just looked at the IPL and it shows a de-comp valve for the VI 944

 

[pioneerguy600]

That saw looks just like my 944. Seems like mine has a compression release but I'm not sure, been awhile since I had it out.
I just looked at the IPL and it shows a de-comp valve for the VI 944

The bigger bore saws probably need a compression release, even this saw could use one but us oldtimers were used to starting these high comp saws from the get go. The last one to rap my knuckles was the one I built up for Jeff, that Jonny is a brute, always was even when it had .035 squish , now at .020 squish its much worse on a brand new P&C that will break in and increase in comp.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Wildman1024]

Took a couple of picts of the saw I had out to check the carb on for Mark. This was my FIL last new saw before he retired, he is now 87 and has health issues.

Pioneerguy600

Thats a nice 922 Jerry. Sorry to hear about your FIL being sick. It's pretty cool that homelite is all he ran. Is that 922 still 82cc and electronic ignition?