Homelite Chainsaws

[Toolslinger]

XL-12 Help

This is an XL-12 that has been with my family since before I was with them... Its done a hell of a job over the years, but finally let us down last week. No fault of its own, between age, and crappy fuel, I don't blame the saw...

So its home with me now for a bit of a spa treatment... The plan is to round up a new plug, air filter, fuel line, and carb kit... Naturally I'll take a look at the bar and chain while its here too. I can't tell you what the compression is, but its more than enough to make one's hand sore pulling on the starter...

As another issue, the fuel cap is leaking like a sieve for some reason when the saw is on the side. I've seen a number of caps listed for XL-12's on a variety of sites, and they aren't this nice rounded lobe style... Are they all interchangeable across the XL-12 life, or do I need to find one of this style?

Ok, so , the air filter, plug, and fuel line I have found on a couple sites. I think I just need the carb ID'd so I can get the right kit as I understand they had a couple different carbs over the years...

What have I got?

 

[metalspec]

I know a lot of people who claim that they will work on any chainsaw but a Mini Mac. I have personally never seen one, but if I come across one i'd like to try and tackle it....if this sounds too crazy, someone try and stop me now!!! Na i'm always up for a challenge. Not too familiar with McCulloch's but I do have a Mac 2858 (or something along there) brush cutter and a old McCulloch generator with a 3 horse Briggs on it.

I might just have to send you one

 

[metalspec]

This is an XL-12 that has been with my family since before I was with them... Its done a hell of a job over the years, but finally let us down last week. No fault of its own, between age, and crappy fuel, I don't blame the saw...

So its home with me now for a bit of a spa treatment... The plan is to round up a new plug, air filter, fuel line, and carb kit... Naturally I'll take a look at the bar and chain while its here too. I can't tell you what the compression is, but its more than enough to make one's hand sore pulling on the starter...

As another issue, the fuel cap is leaking like a sieve for some reason when the saw is on the side. I've seen a number of caps listed for XL-12's on a variety of sites, and they aren't this nice rounded lobe style... Are they all interchangeable across the XL-12 life, or do I need to find one of this style?

Ok, so , the air filter, plug, and fuel line I have found on a couple sites. I think I just need the carb ID'd so I can get the right kit as I understand they had a couple different carbs over the years...

What have I got?

I may have a fuel cap that doesn't leak for you. I'll have to look. As for the carb, it's a walbro SDC. Kits are easy to find for it.

 

[Toolslinger]

Thanks for the lead on the cap...

I started punching numbers from the photo in, and came up with the kit... Cripes that seems like a whole lotta gaskets for that little carb... Note to self, must do this in a very clean situation where falling parts won't disappear...

If I am successful here, then I'll move on to the Super Wiz 80 and see if I can get that grumbling... Just gotta do one at a time so I don't get lost someplace...

 

[metalspec]

Thanks for the lead on the cap...

I started punching numbers from the photo in, and came up with the kit... Cripes that seems like a whole lotta gaskets for that little carb... Note to self, must do this in a very clean situation where falling parts won't disappear...

If I am successful here, then I'll move on to the Super Wiz 80 and see if I can get that grumbling... Just gotta do one at a time so I don't get lost someplace...

Ya, you'll definitely do best with the carb if you have a clean place to work. There are a bunch of small parts, but they're pretty easy to work on. Just make sure all holes are clear. Use carb cleaner and compressed air... And be sure to take note of what order the gaskets and diaphragm are in. If you haven't done one before, it can be easy to mix them up

 

[67L36Driver]

The later red or black hex shape fuel cap won't work in those early tanks.



Found that out this morning...................................................................:censored:

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Ya, you'll definitely do best with the carb if you have a clean place to work. There are a bunch of small parts, but they're pretty easy to work on. Just make sure all holes are clear. Use carb cleaner and compressed air... And be sure to take note of what order the gaskets and diaphragm are in. If you haven't done one before, it can be easy to mix them up

google up the walbro site. they'll have a diagram and other info to assist you.
don't worry about the number of parts in the carb kit. you won't need most of them. the kit is generic to several different carbs. cheaper to produce and stock than having a kit for every specific carb.
btw, be VERY careful with the spring. DO NOT loose it. DO NOT drop it. definitely work in a clean, well-lit area. study the diagram before opening the carb.
go forth and conquer

 

[jerrycmorrow]

C-5

do you need the inner clutch spacer on the "screw-on" clutch or just for the key-way clutch? didn't have one when i took it apart (a junk yard find with many missing parts). so when reassembling i noted the inner clutch spacer on the IPL so bought one. i'm thinking the sprocket sticks out too far and the nut on the crank has lots of threads showing.

also, anyone got any pix, or verbal description, of how the ground and high tension leads are routed?

 

[tilenick]

Xl12 manual oiler

How often should the manual oiler be pushed in the cut? I have a 16 inch bar and might be looking at a 20 inch. Is there a standard or is it just by feel?
Nick.

 

[watsonr]

I push once every 4" of wood.. give or take. Normally a couple to start each cut. You know your pushing about right if you run out of oil just a little before the fuel runs out.

 

[67L36Driver]

do you need the inner clutch spacer on the "screw-on" clutch or just for the key-way clutch? didn't have one when i took it apart (a junk yard find with many missing parts). so when reassembling i noted the inner clutch spacer on the IPL so bought one. i'm thinking the sprocket sticks out too far and the nut on the crank has lots of threads showing.

also, anyone got any pix, or verbal description, of how the ground and high tension leads are routed?

Just so happens........................................

One of mine is waiting on a replacement coil and the flywheel is off.

Pay no attention to the zip tie around the coil.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

do you need the inner clutch spacer on the "screw-on" clutch or just for the key-way clutch? didn't have one when i took it apart (a junk yard find with many missing parts). so when reassembling i noted the inner clutch spacer on the IPL so bought one. i'm thinking the sprocket sticks out too far and the nut on the crank has lots of threads showing.

never mind. had a great idea and looked at the shop manual. turns out that the later C-5's are the ones with the "screw-on" clutch and they don't require the inner clutch spacer. amazing what you can find when you read the instructions.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Just so happens........................................

One of mine is waiting on a replacement coil and the flywheel is off.

Pay no attention to the zip tie around the coil.

thanks much. turns out i was routing the wires on the outside rather than the inside. i'm guessing the flywheel might've snagged them.

 

[Eccentric]

The later red or black hex shape fuel cap won't work in those early tanks.



Found that out this morning...................................................................:censored:

Yep that sucks. The older XL-12 family saws use the same caps as the C/XP series saws.

Thanks for the lead on the cap...

I started punching numbers from the photo in, and came up with the kit... Cripes that seems like a whole lotta gaskets for that little carb... Note to self, must do this in a very clean situation where falling parts won't disappear...

If I am successful here, then I'll move on to the Super Wiz 80 and see if I can get that grumbling... Just gotta do one at a time so I don't get lost someplace...

As Jerry said, there are bits in that kit you won't need. Make sure you compare your pump gasket to the old one. There are usually two thicknesses of gaskets in the kit. There may be two metering chamber gaskets too. Match up to the right ones. Ignore the accelerator pump diaphragm(s) in the kit (if there) as they are used on other SDC's, but not yours. Install the diaphragms and gaskets in the right order. Make sure to place the metering lever 'forked' ends into the grooves on the inlet needle AND the 'tit' on the metal tab of the metering diaphragm. Set the metering lever per the Walbro SDC instructions ( be sure to download them as suggested).

 

[leecopland]

new xl923

A friend has just picked up an XL923 for me as it was just around the corner from him and a 100 miles from me. It apparently starts and runs but stalls when the choke is closed. Sounds like an adjustment or a carb kit. I'm thinking that it was $35.00 well spent.

My sister bought me a Super Mini for my birthday (spreading CAD through out the family) and it is a sweetheart. Very little use and a brand new Stihl chain! The chain alone is worth more than she paid for the saw. All it needs is a good carb cleaning, runs and cuts well.

Oh, I can't remember how to change my list of saws. It must be somewhere in my profile but for the life of me can't find it again.:msp_unsure:

Thanks,

Lee

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Yep that sucks. The older XL-12 family saws use the same caps as the C/XP series saws.



As Jerry said, there are bits in that kit you won't need. Make sure you compare your pump gasket to the old one. There are usually two thicknesses of gaskets in the kit. There may be two metering chamber gaskets too. Match up to the right ones. Ignore the accelerator pump diaphragm(s) in the kit (if there) as they are used on other SDC's, but not yours. Install the diaphragms and gaskets in the right order. Make sure to place the metering lever 'forked' ends into the grooves on the inlet needle AND the 'tit' on the metal tab of the metering diaphragm. Set the metering lever per the Walbro SDC instructions ( be sure to download them as suggested).

good advice aaron. one other thing that occurred to me. many people soak their diaphragms in mix before putting on the carb. helps soften the diaphragms.

 

[badhabit]

Anyway to turn up the oiler on my Homelite Super XL AO? Just picked it up the other day, the guy had a 22'' bar on it and it seems like it needs more oil when I start getting into a cut.

I'm thinking I'm going to drop the bar size down to a 20''. Seems like the 22" might be on the upper end of what the saw can handle.

Bump.

 

[Eccentric]

Bump.

There's no adjustment. The AO pump pickup may be clogged however. You can remove the pickup line from the top. It unscrews (the slotted head 'screw' next to the filler is it).

 

[watsonr]

It apparently starts and runs but stalls when the choke is closed. Sounds like an adjustment or a carb kit. I'm thinking that it was $35.00 well spent.

Oh, I can't remember how to change my list of saws. It must be somewhere in my profile but for the life of me can't find it again.:msp_unsure:

Thanks,

Lee

If you close the choke, it will stall, if you meant to say open the choke it stalls.. that means it needs a carb kit.

Change your saw list in "settings", then select "signature" from the left menu

 

[Eccentric]

Not something you see every day....

More info to follow this weekend. Didn't expect to find one of these. I stumbled upon it, and a very good friend did the legwork to get it here to me. These pics oughta get Randy off our backs for another 24 hrs.