Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That's a good looking 150. People will still look at you funny when you go into the woods with it. I kinda enjoy seeing the looks I get...I guess it's from the chainsaw!

Thanks. Most of the paint is gone tho. I got a quick question for you. I was tearing down a Super 2 today to replace all of the oil and gas lines, and I got mixed up on the oil tank. The oil tank has two lines coming out from it. looks like the main one, then a compression line or something. One line is on the very top of the tank, and the other is beneath it. Do you know which hole is for the main line where the oil goes through?
 
Thanks. Most of the paint is gone tho. I got a quick question for you. I was tearing down a Super 2 today to replace all of the oil and gas lines, and I got mixed up on the oil tank. The oil tank has two lines coming out from it. looks like the main one, then a compression line or something. One line is on the very top of the tank, and the other is beneath it. Do you know which hole is for the main line where the oil goes through?

If you just have 2 lines the bottom one goes to the bar mount. The upper comes from the case and has a duckbill valve on the end of it. You can see it when you open the cap. It pressurizes the tank and forces the oil out the other one. The other one should have a filter on it. These won't work if you loosen the oil cap, it releases the pressure.
 
If you just have 2 lines the bottom one goes to the bar mount. The upper comes from the case and has a duckbill valve on the end of it. You can see it when you open the cap. It pressurizes the tank and forces the oil out the other one. The other one should have a filter on it. These won't work if you loosen the oil cap, it releases the pressure.

Does that duckbill valve kind of look like a fuel filter? Because if not, there is no duckbill on it.
 
Does that duckbill valve kind of look like a fuel filter? Because if not, there is no duckbill on it.

In the oil tank, there will be a porus sintered bronze 'filter' looking thing (called a connector by Homelite) that fits in the end of the impulse line just inside the oil tank. The duckbill valve fits onto this connector. Changing how much of the connector is exposed (not covered by the impulse line or the duckbill valve) controlls how much pressure builds in the oil tank...................and this is how you adjust oiler flow on these saws. IIRC the shop manual instructs us to have between 1/16" and 1/8" of connector exposed. More exposed connector = less pressure (as the pressure bleeds back through the connector into the line rather than being retained).
 
In the oil tank, there will be a porus sintered bronze 'filter' looking thing (called a connector by Homelite) that fits in the end of the impulse line just inside the oil tank. The duckbill valve fits onto this connector. Changing how much of the connector is exposed (not covered by the impulse line or the duckbill valve) controlls how much pressure builds in the oil tank...................and this is how you adjust oiler flow on these saws. IIRC the shop manual instructs us to have between 1/16" and 1/8" of connector exposed. More exposed connector = less pressure (as the pressure bleeds back through the connector into the line rather than being retained).

I heard something rattle in the oil tank. I pray its the duckbill. That porus sintered bronze 'filter' looking thing was connected to the oil line that hooks up to the bar mount. Someone must have worked on it before me. This is all very confusing. Seems like a lot of stuff just for a automatic oiler. I wish everything was still manual oiled.
 
I heard something rattle in the oil tank. I pray its the duckbill. That porus sintered bronze 'filter' looking thing was connected to the oil line that hooks up to the bar mount. Someone must have worked on it before me. This is all very confusing. Seems like a lot of stuff just for a automatic oiler. I wish everything was still manual oiled.

The rattling was probably a piece of one of the lines. The duckbill valve is probably kaput. Good news is that they are still available from Stens and Oregon. The Homelite part number for it is 69451. Cheapest way to get them is in bulk. On feebay you can get a bag of 10 for $15 shipped. Time for me to order another bag. They're used in many Homelite fuel caps as well as the XL2 oiler system. They can also be used to fix some McCulloch and Poulan caps with a little work.


Edit:

Wait a minute....................there should be a screen type oil pickup filter for the line that goes to the bar pad. The sintered bronze connector goes in the impulse line from the crankcase (and you put the duckbill on the end of the connector). My guess is that the pickup is what you hear rattling around in there...
 
Last edited:
I heard something rattle in the oil tank. I pray its the duckbill. That porus sintered bronze 'filter' looking thing was connected to the oil line that hooks up to the bar mount. Someone must have worked on it before me. This is all very confusing. Seems like a lot of stuff just for a automatic oiler. I wish everything was still manual oiled.

I doubt if you'll find the duckbill valve. Usually they turn to mush pretty quickly and just look like a little black glob. The filter that's in the oil tank looks similar to a filter found in the fuel tank only smaller and all metal, silver colored. Luckily, they still sell the duckbills on ebay for about 2.50 each. Your saw should have two duckbills, one in the oil tank in the upper line and one in the side of the fuel tank, you can see it as soon as you remove the starter cover, it's toward the top. These old saws aren't usually guilty of over oiling so instead of the sintered connector I use a 3/4" piece of a ballpoint pen refill. Stick it in the line (less the ink) and stick the duckbill over it.
 
234933d1335048224-duckbill-valve-small-jpg
Here's a pic I posted some time ago of the duckbill valve in the oil tank. This one doesn't have the sintered connector, just the ballpoint pen tube section.
 
I doubt if you'll find the duckbill valve. Usually they turn to mush pretty quickly and just look like a little black glob. The filter that's in the oil tank looks similar to a filter found in the fuel tank only smaller and all metal, silver colored. Luckily, they still sell the duckbills on ebay for about 2.50 each. Your saw should have two duckbills, one in the oil tank in the upper line and one in the side of the fuel tank, you can see it as soon as you remove the starter cover, it's toward the top. These old saws aren't usually guilty of over oiling so instead of the sintered connector I use a 3/4" piece of a ballpoint pen refill. Stick it in the line (less the ink) and stick the duckbill over it.

Ok I think you just cleared it up for me. The duckbills in mine are orange. There is one on the side of the fuel tank..and the other one goes on the end of the impulse oil line. Then the metal oil filter thing goes on the end of the other oil line that goes to the bar?
 
Ok I think you just cleared it up for me. The duckbills in mine are orange. There is one on the side of the fuel tank..and the other one goes on the end of the impulse oil line. Then the metal oil filter thing goes on the end of the other oil line that goes to the bar?

I think you have it! Actually, my duckbills are orange also, the blue tint came somehow from using a flash bulb. Notice the saw is red and yellow? The saw is all red in reality. My photography isn't the best but thought you'd get the idea..
 
I think you have it! Actually, my duckbills are orange also, the blue tint came somehow from using a flash bulb. Notice the saw is red and yellow? The saw is all red in reality. My photography isn't the best but thought you'd get the idea..

Yea thanks I really appreciate it. I am planning on rebuilding this Super 2 to give it to my mom. She needs a light saw for occasional trimming. We sold her old Poulan Woodsman because it took forever to start and her Stihl MS190 (I think) quite running right.
 
Ok I think you just cleared it up for me. The duckbills in mine are orange. There is one on the side of the fuel tank..and the other one goes on the end of the impulse oil line. Then the metal oil filter thing goes on the end of the other oil line that goes to the bar?

There are two metal 'filter' type things here. One is the pickup screen for the oil line that feeds the bar pad. The other is a sintered bronze (looks like bronze 'pebbles' compressed together) connector that fits into the impulse line from the crankcase. The duckbill valve fits onto that. The purpose of that bit is to bleed a bit of pressure back from the tank into the crankcase to make oiling less 'severe'. You can indeed replace it with a metal tube (such as Joe's pen refil piece) and just have 'max oiling' since these saws don't really oil that much anyways. In any case, you'll want to 'burp' the oil tank cap after you shut the saw down for the day to keep the saw from drooling so much oil onto the shelf as the saw sits....

Here's links to the Homelite Shop Manual (4th and 5th Ed). You can read up on the XL2 saws and their oiler systems (including the 'connector' and recomended settings for it).

http://www.mediafire.com/?1dlkv4unh3tu5t1

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og
 
Wish I had found this thread a month or two ago. I am almost finished fixing a Super 2 and an XL2. I finally managed to get all the parts I needed, but it took a lot of internet time to find them. I had to replace 1 oil pump, 4 duckbills, two connectors, two sprocket thrust washers, rebuild two carbs and get new air dam and carb gaskets. I am awaiting one connector and one thrust washer. I got most of the parts from ebay. The comments in this thread were right on, wish I had seen them earlier.
 
Wish I had found this thread a month or two ago. I am almost finished fixing a Super 2 and an XL2. I finally managed to get all the parts I needed, but it took a lot of internet time to find them. I had to replace 1 oil pump, 4 duckbills, two connectors, two sprocket thrust washers, rebuild two carbs and get new air dam and carb gaskets. I am awaiting one connector and one thrust washer. I got most of the parts from ebay. The comments in this thread were right on, wish I had seen them earlier.

Picked up my very first saw, an XL-2, twenty years ago at a garage sale. It is remarkable how many ways you can hook up the oiler lines wrong. I tried most every one.
 
Wish I had found this thread a month or two ago. I am almost finished fixing a Super 2 and an XL2. I finally managed to get all the parts I needed, but it took a lot of internet time to find them. I had to replace 1 oil pump, 4 duckbills, two connectors, two sprocket thrust washers, rebuild two carbs and get new air dam and carb gaskets. I am awaiting one connector and one thrust washer. I got most of the parts from ebay. The comments in this thread were right on, wish I had seen them earlier.

I admire your patience. I have a couple of those saws, and I use them for door stops in the barn....
 
Back
Top