I think that is the correct replacement plug.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I think that is the correct replacement plug.
It will run fine on a CJ6 or a CJ7Y if you prefer one a half step hotter. Mine does.
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
Sprayed the clutch with a healthy dose of PB; clutch spins freely.
Saw is now boxed up and on headed to a new home in Missouri...
Sprayed the clutch with a healthy dose of PB; clutch spins freely.
Saw is now boxed up and on headed to a new home in Missouri...
No worries, it will just come all apart when it gets here.................................................................:hmm3grin2orange:
Have fun with that furrin' made plastic fantastic.:msp_thumbup:
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Carl thank you for saving me from myself....:msp_thumbup:
DANG! here i went snoozin again. hey marc, keep me in mind when you come across those again. wake me up. good on ya carl.
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
I'm not quite sure how I come across these things?!?! I don't really have an interest in them but I hate to see them just rust away. I'll keep dragging them in and posting them.
Toolslinger
ArboristSite Operative
Well... I figured out what was killing my XL-12... The carb kit came in a couple days ago, and I hope the fuel lines will be here today, so I thought I'd do the carb... There was a nervous moment figuring out how to get the carb out, but it did pop free with a little persuasion after the bolts were out.
Inside was immaculate. The diaphragms, and gaskets were still in excellent condition. Then I noted in the IPL that there was a screen for the incoming fuel... What screen? I don't see any screen... Oh, its that round area that is packed with fine sawdust slush... Well I cleaned all that crap out, and put the carb back together...
The fuel line had the structural integrity of a piece of soft taffy... It just ripped off the carb, and then broke off where it went in to the tank... When I pulled the remains out of the tank, the end was broken too... No filter... Dumped the tank and that dropped out too... Probably absolutely nothing wrong with the carb apart from that plug on the screen... Its just really old fuel line, and alcohol leading to starving the machine for fuel...
Well the mail guy just got here... I can go try to get the fuel line in after I order a new filter... I'm stealing the fuel cap from the SW80 as it looks good... I'll try to solve that problem next... At least I can see if she starts and runs if I can get the new fuel line in today...
-Tim
Inside was immaculate. The diaphragms, and gaskets were still in excellent condition. Then I noted in the IPL that there was a screen for the incoming fuel... What screen? I don't see any screen... Oh, its that round area that is packed with fine sawdust slush... Well I cleaned all that crap out, and put the carb back together...
The fuel line had the structural integrity of a piece of soft taffy... It just ripped off the carb, and then broke off where it went in to the tank... When I pulled the remains out of the tank, the end was broken too... No filter... Dumped the tank and that dropped out too... Probably absolutely nothing wrong with the carb apart from that plug on the screen... Its just really old fuel line, and alcohol leading to starving the machine for fuel...
Well the mail guy just got here... I can go try to get the fuel line in after I order a new filter... I'm stealing the fuel cap from the SW80 as it looks good... I'll try to solve that problem next... At least I can see if she starts and runs if I can get the new fuel line in today...
-Tim
Toolslinger
ArboristSite Operative
Good god I love the sound of that saw... Its dull as a kids saw with ball chain, but with a little tweak, it ran good, nice idle, smooth from idle up to ear shattering... The old fuel filter is ok for the moment (like if a tree falls tomorrow and my Poulan doesn't start) but I'll get one on the way...
Next up I think may be a Mighty Mite, so off to another sticky...
-Tim
Next up I think may be a Mighty Mite, so off to another sticky...
-Tim
Always, always, ALWAYS! Dump and rinse the tank on a 'new to you' saw.
That tiny screen is the carb.'s last line of defence against crap.
Toolslinger
ArboristSite Operative
Not a new to me saw... Been in the family longer than I've been on the planet, and until a couple weeks ago, it was a flawless performer... Never knew there was a filter on the line as we've never had to do a thing for the saw apart from fuel, oil, and sharpen/replace the chain... I doubt it ran without the filter for long, probably just broke off when I pulled the saw from its shelf then...
MMG
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Driver! I figure I may need a coil but I want to set the correct gap before I submit. Does more gap give more spark? Say about .020?
:msp_unsure:
Nope. Set flywheel/pole piece gap around .015" or tigher if your main bearings will allow it. You want the magnets to set as many electrons in motion as possible.
You do not want the flywheel to strike the pole ends! Makes a mess.
MMG
ArboristSite Operative
I set it at .011, .015 is better? Or should I just try to find a used coil?
Thanks again!
I set it at .011, .015 is better? Or should I just try to find a used coil?
Thanks again!
Close is good, closer is better and too close is just enuff.
If it don't spark at .011" and is grounded to the metal part of the engine then most likely the coil is junk.
Like I posted above, I have a 33 cc Ranger that had a bad coil when I got him and the next coil (used) lasted all of ten minutes. The coil on him now (also used) has lasted long enuff to cut down half an lilac bush and I can't hardly wait to send him down the road (while he still runs).
Maybe mail him to Arkansas with no return address........................................................................................From a post office in Topeka.
Or, to northern Kalifornia..........................................Sooooo many options.
Last edited:
There was a lot of oak harvested in the Ozarks for railroad ties back in the day. May have something to do with it.
Mono saws were built in Springfield Missouri.
MMG
ArboristSite Operative
I set it at .011, .015 is better? Or should I just try to find a used coil?
Thanks again!
Oops, I didn't see the "or tighter". Mabey I will try a smaller gap.
BTW, if I get it running, I will add it to my signiture line. Keep you Homelite boys happy and mabey more will answer my questions. Before my Dad bought his first Sachs Dolmar he was a Homelite Man all the way. Still remember how proud he was when he upgraded from a Super XL to a Super XL Automatic. He cut a lot of firewood with a Homelite. After he switched to Dolmar saws I have been faithfull to Dolmar since. Maybe because he gave me his old 117 six months before he passed. Sorry, too much info, thanks again for the help.
:redface:
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
:msp_scared::msp_scared::msp_scared:
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Homelite/Textron Homelite Super??????
Picked up this old top handle saw at a garage sale and am trying to figure out model #. UT Number is 105464. Tore saw apart but had to cut away muffler cover to free up mounting screw. Any ideas where I can pick up a muffler? Its small with one mounting screw that holds it in place.
Bob
Picked up this old top handle saw at a garage sale and am trying to figure out model #. UT Number is 105464. Tore saw apart but had to cut away muffler cover to free up mounting screw. Any ideas where I can pick up a muffler? Its small with one mounting screw that holds it in place.
Bob
Muffler removal xl2
I'm trying to get my muffler off. I see a hole in the center of the cover and three small holes around the perimeter. R there 4 small screws. Or what ? Can't find any info on how to remove it.
I'm trying to get my muffler off. I see a hole in the center of the cover and three small holes around the perimeter. R there 4 small screws. Or what ? Can't find any info on how to remove it.
