Homelite Chainsaws

[lesorubcheek]

XL2s, the little XLs and Super 2s all have a single bolt (or at least all I've ever seen) holding on the muffler. I've seen at least 3 types of mufflers, some with seperate halves and some one piece. I've also seen 'em with a flat head and with an allen head bolt. That hole in the middle is the one to start poking around in... just the question of what head is needed to fit the bolt.

Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Picked up this old top handle saw at a garage sale and am trying to figure out model #. UT Number is 105464. Tore saw apart but had to cut away muffler cover to free up mounting screw. Any ideas where I can pick up a muffler? Its small with one mounting screw that holds it in place.
Bob

Bob, is it a plastic Super 2 or a metal one? Some of the newer plastic ones take a bigger muffler that won't fit on the older ones.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Picked up this old top handle saw at a garage sale and am trying to figure out model #. UT Number is 105464. Tore saw apart but had to cut away muffler cover to free up mounting screw. Any ideas where I can pick up a muffler? Its small with one mounting screw that holds it in place.
Bob

Bob, is this what you're looking for? If so, PM me your address and it's yours.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...Mono saws were built in Springfield Missouri.

as were Barker's

 

[XPLRN]

Homelite Demo Saws..............

Back in the 450/550/750 era............what was 'standard' size saw used to make into a demo saw?? I'm presuming a 450/550 as a 750 seems a bit excessive for a v-belt drive setup!??? Any way of I.D.-ing a Homelite demo saw with no external markings on it?? Are the "electronic ignition" setups still available for them?

 

[watsonr]

I think they used the XL-925s more than anything else, called it an XL-98. Take a look at the XL-921-925 series saws and see if the body style matches. 82 cc's and they are good saws, can pick them up for $100 all day long and cheaper! Good air filter system on them, I have never seen anybody try to put it on a 925 yet.

Later versions were the D-50

 

[lesorubcheek]

I think they used the XL-925s more than anything else, called it an XL-98. Take a look at the XL-921-925 series saws and see if the body style matches. 82 cc's and they are good saws, can pick them up for $100 all day long and cheaper! Good air filter system on them, I have never seen anybody try to put it on a 925 yet.

Later versions were the D-50

The 98s sure had a run, with the later ones even getting revamped with a plastic fuel tank. I'd agree that I bet more of these were made than any other demos from Homelite. The DM-50 was based on a 450... same displacement but had thick ring pistons. Tons of differeneces between the demo and the chainsaw. The trigger module was tannish/brown on these with a lower RPM limit than the blue trigger used on the 450. Even the crankcase was molded without the drillings for the auto oiler system. Different air fillter setup too.

There was a DM-40 based on the 410 and a larger version based on the 540/8800. Think it was DM-54, but can't remember for sure. There was even a DM-20 based on either an XL-12 or Super XL. Not sure if there was a SEZ vairiant for demolition, but there was a debarker setup on those with some special name.

Dan

 

[XPLRN]

450/550/750 i.d.

I think they used the XL-925s more than anything else, called it an XL-98. Take a look at the XL-921-925 series saws and see if the body style matches. 82 cc's and they are good saws, can pick them up for $100 all day long and cheaper! Good air filter system on them, I have never seen anybody try to put it on a 925 yet.

Later versions were the D-50

I have deduced that the body style matches the 450/550/750 saws. Still looking for my luggage scale to weigh the powerhead as the AcresInternet/CSCC site indicates a notable difference between the 550(18 lbs.,6 ozs.) and the 750(23.1 lbs) powerhead weights.

*edit.......there are not weights for the 450's on AcresInternet/CSCC........they show four different models......but no weights.

 

[XPLRN]

The DM-50 was based on a 450... same displacement but had thick ring pistons. Tons of differeneces between the demo and the chainsaw. The trigger module was tannish/brown on these with a lower RPM limit than the blue trigger used on the 450. Even the crankcase was molded without the drillings for the auto oiler system. Different air fillter setup too.


Dan

Thanks, Dan, for the additional info.....sure fun to learn about the chainsaw variants/demo saws. The saw I'm looking at has the gas tank up front, on the top and has the exposed ignition module down low under the rear handle. From what you've mentioned it's probably a DM-50............if they didn't produce them in any bigger sizes. Is there any i.d. tag under the air filter assembly or any other place on the saw??

I've been told there was an issue with the "electronic ignition/coil pack"........I wonder if they are still available or !???

 

[hemiyota]

Found this at a scrapyard today....anyone know what model it is?

There are no stickers, left, to identify it. Has a 36" bar, and, after winding the recoil a couple turns, and squirting mix in the carb, it started on the second pull. Gas tank is pretty clean, and so is the carb area. The fuel line, in the tank, is mush. What's the best way to replace it...........

Not too bad, for a freebie...

 

[Eccentric]

Back in the 450/550/750 era............what was 'standard' size saw used to make into a demo saw?? I'm presuming a 450/550 as a 750 seems a bit excessive for a v-belt drive setup!??? Any way of I.D.-ing a Homelite demo saw with no external markings on it?? Are the "electronic ignition" setups still available for them?

The 98s sure had a run, with the later ones even getting revamped with a plastic fuel tank. I'd agree that I bet more of these were made than any other demos from Homelite. The DM-50 was based on a 450... same displacement but had thick ring pistons. Tons of differeneces between the demo and the chainsaw. The trigger module was tannish/brown on these with a lower RPM limit than the blue trigger used on the 450. Even the crankcase was molded without the drillings for the auto oiler system. Different air fillter setup too.

There was a DM-40 based on the 410 and a larger version based on the 540/8800. Think it was DM-54, but can't remember for sure. There was even a DM-20 based on either an XL-12 or Super XL. Not sure if there was a SEZ vairiant for demolition, but there was a debarker setup on those with some special name.

Dan

Good info as usual Dan. The XL800/900 based demo/concrete/cutoff saws were the XL88 and XL98 series. Later XL98's having "A", "B", "C", or "D" as model suffix's. There was the XL12 based DM20 as well as the 410 based DM40, 450 based DM50, and 540 based DM54. There was also an MP38 and MP88 (can't remember what they were based on). I THINK the MP38 was based on one of the Solo Homelites, and the MP88 was based on the 8800. Could be mistaken however. I have a buddy who has an XL98 and a DM54.

Usually if these machines were used much for cutting concrete they're CLAPPED OUT. Even if the P/C survived a dusting from poor AF maintenance, the bearings and seals are often whipped. Saws used for cutting cable, rebar, rails, and car bodies/frames are often in better shape. I think that's due to the lack of concrete dust, and the more intermittant use cycles for cutting those materials (which is more like 'regular' chainsaw use) rather than the LONG WOT grind when making a long concrete cut (especially if the saw was used on a cart).

The XL98 saws come up on CL here every once in a while, but they're usually either clapped out or listed for crazy money. The nice ones that are reasonably priced go QUICK. I'd really like to pick up an XL88/98, DM50, DM54, or DM20 to use for cutting up scrap auto parts and such. I have a good used XL800 P/C that's waiting to go into a clapped out XL88/98 should I get one cheap enough.

There are no stickers, left, to identify it. Has a 36" bar, and, after winding the recoil a couple turns, and squirting mix in the carb, it started on the second pull. Gas tank is pretty clean, and so is the carb area. The fuel line, in the tank, is mush. What's the best way to replace it...........


Not too bad, for a freebie...

Looks like a late production C-72. That bar is a really nice score. Free eh? You suck. Wanna quadruple your money on the whole thing???:jester:

 

[homelitejim]

found this xl-103 at the scrap for $5. I sharpened the chain and adjusted the carb and cut a few rounds, it sure is nice to find such a good runner.

 

[Ambull]

found this xl-103 at the scrap for $5. I sharpened the chain and adjusted the carb and cut a few rounds, it sure is nice to find such a good runner.

Those saws kick butt!!! Very light and powerful. Very well spent $5. Congrats!!

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

There are no stickers, left, to identify it. Has a 36" bar, and, after winding the recoil a couple turns, and squirting mix in the carb, it started on the second pull. Gas tank is pretty clean, and so is the carb area. The fuel line, in the tank, is mush. What's the best way to replace it...........

Not too bad, for a freebie...

I hate you... so bad right now....
Congrats!

If you would like to trade it for a newer saw send me a message!

 

[psuiewalsh]

The 98s sure had a run, with the later ones even getting revamped with a plastic fuel tank. I'd agree that I bet more of these were made than any other demos from Homelite. The DM-50 was based on a 450... same displacement but had thick ring pistons. Tons of differeneces between the demo and the chainsaw. The trigger module was tannish/brown on these with a lower RPM limit than the blue trigger used on the 450. Even the crankcase was molded without the drillings for the auto oiler system. Different air fillter setup too.

There was a DM-40 based on the 410 and a larger version based on the 540/8800. Think it was DM-54, but can't remember for sure. There was even a DM-20 based on either an XL-12 or Super XL. Not sure if there was a SEZ vairiant for demolition, but there was a debarker setup on those with some special name.

Dan

My father still has a DM54. It is hard to find parts for but he has patched it together 5 or 6 times.

 

[XPLRN]

My father still has a DM54. It is hard to find parts for but he has patched it together 5 or 6 times.

That's an even newer saw platform than the DM-50 I'm looking at. What kind of parts was he having availability problems with!??

Regarding this ignition module/coil pack on the sparkplug of the 450/550/750 series........I'm wondering if the newer automotive coil on plug designed coils would be adaptable?? Probably more cycling of the unit than designed for with automotive usage in mind.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

There are no stickers, left, to identify it. Has a 36" bar, and, after winding the recoil a couple turns, and squirting mix in the carb, it started on the second pull. Gas tank is pretty clean, and so is the carb area. The fuel line, in the tank, is mush. What's the best way to replace it...........

Not too bad, for a freebie...

looks like a C-7 or C-7xxx variant. fuel line is two parts.
take tank cover off the front to replace tank line. goes back together with yamabond or any fuel resistant gasket maker.
up top fuel line is pretty obvious.
nice find.

 

[Ambull]

I got that Homelite 2000 from Procarbine, and fixed it all up. Thanks man for the nice saw. It needed a new clutch, and I changed the 1/2" sprocket out for a 404. I fixed the crack in the starter with some JB weld, and it seems to work well. I added a west coast spike, and a full wrap handlebar. Mounted a nice 36" roller nose bar and chain. Made a quick vid. Enjoy!!!

[video=youtube;AhTx7ZJxMo4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhTx7ZJxMo4&feature=plcp[/video]

 

[hemiyota]

looks like a C-7 or C-7xxx variant. fuel line is two parts.
take tank cover off the front to replace tank line. goes back together with yamabond or any fuel resistant gasket maker.
up top fuel line is pretty obvious.
nice find.

Thanks! Do you usually have any problems removing the small screws to take the tank apart? I was doing the same thing, on a Poulan 361, and over half of the screws wrung off.:msp_scared:

 

[Ambull]

Thanks! Do you usually have any problems removing the small screws to take the tank apart? I was doing the same thing, on a Poulan 361, and over half of the screws wrung off.:msp_scared:

If you are really good you can replace the line without opening the tank. Run a thin wire through the hole and then feed the new line over the wire. The wire will guide the new line right to the fitting. You can then push it on with a medical clamp, or your fingers if they are small.

Bryce sells tank gaskets on Ebay if you open up the tank.

If you use the proper screwdriver, the tank screws usually come off pretty well.