Those saws sound so sweet and will idle forever
as long as it has gas. Got to love em.
Lee
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Those saws sound so sweet and will idle forever
as long as it has gas. Got to love em.
Lee
watsonr
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And that is my problem! Small leak around the lower carb gasket and needs a fuel line. You wouldn't happen to remember the fuel line size would you?
C5 bar/chain problem.
I have a 20" Windsor UXL hardnose I want to run on my 2nd C5. New loop of .404 and new rim sprocket.
When I tighten down the clutch cover the chain binds up. Can't move it. I also tried it without bar plates and it still binds up.
I had it on my other C5 without any problem.
Can the clutch cover be squeezing the guide rails enuff to clamp drivers on the chain??????
Next step is to swap clutch covers.
I have a 20" Windsor UXL hardnose I want to run on my 2nd C5. New loop of .404 and new rim sprocket.
When I tighten down the clutch cover the chain binds up. Can't move it. I also tried it without bar plates and it still binds up.
I had it on my other C5 without any problem.
Can the clutch cover be squeezing the guide rails enuff to clamp drivers on the chain??????
Next step is to swap clutch covers.
opcorn:
Just looked at Acre's website and it calls for an Oregon F014 or Windsor HO. They look larger in the tail which moves the groove away form the clamping area of the cover.
I guess I'll have to try finding a bar.
Carl.
watsonr
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or add spacers. If you have a spare pair of plates, cut them down.
I had a problem similar to yours on an old Homelite, not a C5. I think my solution was to change the bar. Yeah, it can bind the chain if it touches it after you clamp it down. I didn't try it without the bar plates but that might have worked. I think I might have been trying to put a 3/8 on mine if I remember correctly.
That, I'll have to try. I have several leftover plates from Remys that have the same dia. and spacing as the Homies.
The clutch cover on the one C5 has been 'modified' by a tossed chain or three is why it didn't cause any trouble.
whatscooking
ArboristSite Operative
I got to looking at things closer and found with the oil cap off there was still half a tank of oil and when i worked the manual button i could hear it making a sucking noise inside the tank and a little oil movement where the flex hose comes through for the pickup. Removed the brass line then pulled the fitting and found that the little flex hose had split and when oil got below that spot it would suck air instead of oil. The split was hidden inside a little cavity making removal of the fitting necessary to see the split.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Carl that really just is the wrong bar for your saw. In addition to the chain/bar plate/bar pad/clutch cover contact issues (which could be fixed with spacers), the oiler hole on those bars is in the wrong place (and that can't be fixed). The oiler slot on the large frame Homelite bar pad is too far from the stud centerline to work with D096/D196/UXL/TXL bars. Put the UXL bar on the studs and move it back and forth through the adjustment range. You will see that the oiler slot is uncovered through much of that range. The oil will just run down the drivecase to the ground. A little will dribble onto the cutters and sideplates, but that's not sufficient.
When Homelite enlarged the XL-series studs to 3/8" (and enlarged the bar slots to match) they created this problem of people trying to use XL-mount bars on large frame saws (since they could now be made to 'fit' on the C-series saws, unlike when they had 5/16" slots). I've seen people post that you can use these bars on C-series saws (here, on HoH, and on CSCF) either as-is or with a little modification of the adjuster hole or the saw's adjuster nut/peg. That is really bad advice in my book. I have seen many damaged sets of bar plates as well as damaged drivecases and clutch covers as a result of this bad practice.
Sometimes folks luck out and there's no damage done to the bar pad or clutch over (and not too much damage to the chain or bar from weak oiling). It's just not worth the risk in my book however. The correct bar for these saws really isn't that hard to find, especially if you're looking for a 24" or shorter hardnose that'd be 'appropriate' for a C-5. I have a nice 18"-ish (it's somewhere between 17" and 19"...I'll have to dig it out and measure it) .063G Homelite branded F014 mount hardnose bar that I will send you to run on your saw Carl. It still has much of the red stencil on it IIRC. It came off of a Buz parts saw. I have you address.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I had the same issue with my SXL-925. The oil pump on these saws isn't adjustable BTW. Glad you figured out your issue...
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Redneck Rigging Super XL Crankcase And Cylinder Gaskets
Ok, so I got it ALL apart. Was wondering if I could RTV the crankcase back together. And the Cylinder/Intake spot. Now the part that makes me wonder on the cylinder/intake side is that obviously you can only put the cylinder on first and by time I got the intake on, that RTV on the intake side would be dry. So if I can, could I just RTV the cylinder half and put the cylinder on. Then RTV the other half when I go to put the intake back on? Not sure if I can use this since they were originally paper gaskets? Any tips? Thanks. (I want to save as much cash on this as I can)
Ok, so I got it ALL apart. Was wondering if I could RTV the crankcase back together. And the Cylinder/Intake spot. Now the part that makes me wonder on the cylinder/intake side is that obviously you can only put the cylinder on first and by time I got the intake on, that RTV on the intake side would be dry. So if I can, could I just RTV the cylinder half and put the cylinder on. Then RTV the other half when I go to put the intake back on? Not sure if I can use this since they were originally paper gaskets? Any tips? Thanks. (I want to save as much cash on this as I can)
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Don't use RTV. Use Threebond 1194 (aka Hondabond/Suzukibond/Yamabond/Kawasakibond-4) or Permatex Motoseal. I use Threebond. Got my latest tube of Hondabond-4 from the local bike shop for about $8. Lasts a long time.
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Cool. I do have a tube of Yamabond that I used on my snowmobile a few years. Had been sitting in the garage. Hopefully its still good.
I had the same situation, broke that gasket taking the saw apart, luckily I had a parts saw handy which had a good gasket on it. I saw one of those gaskets on ebay for around $6 if you go that route. Moto Seal by NAPA would be a choice for sealer, NAPA stores around here don't stock it but it's sold on ebay also. It's similar to Hondabond and Yamabond I would imagine, it's fuel resistant.
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Your right, its $6 but with $5 shipping for a piece of paper that easily fits in a envelope
Super XL AO compression
I haven't posted on the Homelite stickie before but I have a line on a Super XL AO and it sounds like a good Homelite to start with. What kind of compression number should I be looking for on this saw?
(I know Eccentric, I've been dragging my feet on this one but that creamsicle MS260 got in the way)
Thanks
Tim
I haven't posted on the Homelite stickie before but I have a line on a Super XL AO and it sounds like a good Homelite to start with. What kind of compression number should I be looking for on this saw?
(I know Eccentric, I've been dragging my feet on this one but that creamsicle MS260 got in the way)
Thanks
Tim
What percipated the problem.
Homelite hardnose bar Serial number(!?) 10248734 is worn out in the groove. New 62 dl of .404 x .062 guage loop. Cut a ways and it curves left and binds/stalls the saw.
Like to find a good one as it would be less trouble.
Homelite hardnose bar Serial number(!?) 10248734 is worn out in the groove. New 62 dl of .404 x .062 guage loop. Cut a ways and it curves left and binds/stalls the saw.
Like to find a good one as it would be less trouble.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Is it Yamabond-4?
Carl lemme check my 'extra' F014 mount bars this weekend. I think at least one of them takes a 62DL .404-.063G loop. If I have a good one that's a match, it's yours.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Tim you need to move beyond the creamsicles. Don't be too hung up on a compression number. Anything over 110 pounds is fine, so long as the p/c aren't scored. That's the key. Pull the muffler cover and take a good look at the piston, rings, and cylinder for scoring and aluminum transfer. If compression is a little low but nothing looks scored, then you can probably get away with a set of rings or maybe just clearing the carbon out of the ring grooves.
