Homelite Chainsaws

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Your right, its $6 but with $5 shipping for a piece of paper that easily fits in a envelope :laugh:

I used to cut them out of gasket material but I imagine the one you have right now is too bad to trace around? I had thought about using the sealer on mine before I remembered the parts saw. That gasket is awfully thick so I considered that I might have problems fitting the saw back together without it.
 
Tim you need to move beyond the creamsicles. Don't be too hung up on a compression number. Anything over 110 pounds is fine, so long as the p/c aren't scored. That's the key. Pull the muffler cover and take a good look at the piston, rings, and cylinder for scoring and aluminum transfer. If compression is a little low but nothing looks scored, then you can probably get away with a set of rings or maybe just clearing the carbon out of the ring grooves.

Thanks for the tips.

Tim
 
Tim you need to move beyond the creamsicles. Don't be too hung up on a compression number. Anything over 110 pounds is fine, so long as the p/c aren't scored. That's the key. Pull the muffler cover and take a good look at the piston, rings, and cylinder for scoring and aluminum transfer. If compression is a little low but nothing looks scored, then you can probably get away with a set of rings or maybe just clearing the carbon out of the ring grooves.

I've actually seen them run down to 85psi and the Homelite manual states that rings are required when running condition deteriorates, scoring on the piston and rings is present or approximately 90psi of compression, and that all of these things help determine engine health and only YOU can truly determine when it s time for a rebuild.
 
Homelite XL flywheel

For what it's worth: I tried a Homelite Super XL points flywheel on a Super XL electronic ignition saw and although it ran, it didn't run smoothly at all, popped and cracked but would smooth out a little when revved up. I changed back to the electronic flywheel and it ran much better. I had previously thought the flywheels were all the same...
 
I've actually seen them run down to 85psi and the Homelite manual states that rings are required when running condition deteriorates, scoring on the piston and rings is present or approximately 90psi of compression, and that all of these things help determine engine health and only YOU can truly determine when it s time for a rebuild.

It depends on the usage of the saw and maybe other things...some of these old Homelites, such as the Super XLAO that I've been working on aren't really worth too much money to collectors because they are not rare, Homelite made lots of them. If the saw runs and you only use it for occasional firewood cutting it might be best to use it as is.
 
It depends on the usage of the saw and maybe other things...some of these old Homelites, such as the Super XLAO that I've been working on aren't really worth too much money to collectors because they are not rare, Homelite made lots of them. If the saw runs and you only use it for occasional firewood cutting it might be best to use it as is.

Wasn't my saw. Customer brought it in and said it didn't run very well and was having problems starting. Normal fuel system service and it was running like a top, just low on compression, no scoring and down on power. Didn't want to spend the money... I told him run it until it dies. Last check, its still running, I fixed it three years ago!
 
It depends on the usage of the saw and maybe other things...some of these old Homelites, such as the Super XLAO that I've been working on aren't really worth too much money to collectors because they are not rare, Homelite made lots of them. If the saw runs and you only use it for occasional firewood cutting it might be best to use it as is.

The one I'm looking at is something I want for for sentimental value. It's a Duramark branded Homelite for the T. Eaton Co.
A Canadian department store sadly now gone, that I have very fond memories of.
Nice thing is they were all black so it's easy to match the paint!
 
For what it's worth: I tried a Homelite Super XL points flywheel on a Super XL electronic ignition saw and although it ran, it didn't run smoothly at all, popped and cracked but would smooth out a little when revved up. I changed back to the electronic flywheel and it ran much better. I had previously thought the flywheels were all the same...

That's good to know. Thanks Joe. If I swap an electronic ign SXL-AO over to a points coil and a Nova module I'll also swap a points flywheel on at the same time (and swap flywheels back and forth to see which runs right). Same with my Super E-Z Autos. Right now I have an SXL-AO and a S E-Z with dead 'blue coil' ignitions. I have 'spare' used blue coils to swap on to them, but there's no guarantee that those used blue modules will work any better than the dead ones now on the saws.....:dizzy:
 
That's good to know. Thanks Joe. If I swap an electronic ign SXL-AO over to a points coil and a Nova module I'll also swap a points flywheel on at the same time (and swap flywheels back and forth to see which runs right). Same with my Super E-Z Autos. Right now I have an SXL-AO and a S E-Z with dead 'blue coil' ignitions. I have 'spare' used blue coils to swap on to them, but there's no guarantee that those used blue modules will work any better than the dead ones now on the saws.....:dizzy:

I suppose you could use either one if you leave the flywheel key out and time it with a light. I've had problems doing it this way on high compression saws, they want to keep moving the flywheel and throwing it out of time when you pull the rope. If it's a saw with a de-comp valve or rather low compression it would be okay.
 
I haven't posted much in this thread, but I keep building Homelites, lol.

Here is a nice 550 that I built out of a blown saw in good condition and a good motor off a saw that bounced around in the back of a pickup truck.

It runs perfect, with tons of compression.

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Picked up my first Homelite today

I've been watching this one for a while. Great saw. Fired right up. Oils well, piston is clean and compression is 145 lbs. Just needs a sprocket. It's in T. Eaton Co. colors, Duramark brand. What do you guys use to "renew" the plastic AF cover or am I looking at Krylon paint?

Thanks

Tim


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