Homelite Chainsaws

[67L36Driver]

With a lot of help with parts fron Diggers_Dad I got the saw running. Starts and idles great but it pours oil out like a wildman. I know it operates from crankcase pressure built up in the oil tank however w/o removing or loosening oil cap I don't see how to release the pressure. Don't think I gave the correct parts on the pickup line as I believe there should be some kind of checkvalve or something on the line. Any ideas?
Bob

Some scans from my Clymer book.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hey guys, I was wondering if you guys could tell me what crankshafts will interchange with a Homelite Old Blue. I have one a guy dropped off that sheared when a coil bolt fell out and got caught in the flywheel. Snapped it right off. Shame to because the saw is almost in mint condition.

I believe the Old Blue is the same as the Super XL so I'm sure they would interchange. The cheapest way out is to buy a parts saw and take the crank and whatever else you need from it unless you have a friend who'll sell you one cheap. Parts saws are around $10 around here.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I don't know a ton about Homelites, but I do believe pretty positively that there is a check valve.

Duckbill valve on the end of the line inside the oil tank right below the cap. If you take the cap off and look down in the tank you can't miss it unless it's not there anymore.

 

[Eccentric]

I only have one saw like those, runs good, but I have no idea what to do with it!

They're great ripping/noodling saws Joe. That big open clutch cover clears noodles well.

Darn straight bud. The one I have measures .076"-.077" on both sides. Yikes!

Poulan part make the trip?

Good deal Carl. The Poulan part made the ride just fine. Thanks again. Arrived on the Saturday, as I was running my McCulloch 740W1 (video in the Mac thread).

My poor postal carrier lady has had to haul many boxes of saws and parts to the doorstep. This time she could hear one of the saws she had to lug to the doorstep a while ago.

My family tried to abscond with the package...............as you put that Poulan part in a Girl Scout Cookies box...:jester:

Hey guys, I was wondering if you guys could tell me what crankshafts will interchange with a Homelite Old Blue. I have one a guy dropped off that sheared when a coil bolt fell out and got caught in the flywheel. Snapped it right off. Shame to because the saw is almost in mint condition.

I believe the Old Blue is the same as the Super XL so I'm sure they would interchange. The cheapest way out is to buy a parts saw and take the crank and whatever else you need from it unless you have a friend who'll sell you one cheap. Parts saws are around $10 around here.

A crankshaft from any SXL-AO, XL-Automatic, or Super XL Automatic will work fine for you. You need a crank from an auto oiler saw, as your "Old Blue" is just a specially labeled late production SXL-AO.

With a lot of help with parts fron Diggers_Dad I got the saw running. Starts and idles great but it pours oil out like a wildman. I know it operates from crankcase pressure built up in the oil tank however w/o removing or loosening oil cap I don't see how to release the pressure. Don't think I gave the correct parts on the pickup line as I believe there should be some kind of checkvalve or something on the line. Any ideas?
Bob

Duckbill valve on the end of the line inside the oil tank right below the cap. If you take the cap off and look down in the tank you can't miss it unless it's not there anymore.

I'm thinking that the duckbill valve is still attached and functional on that impulse line. If it was gone (or sitting on the bottom of the tank), then the oiler wouldn't work for beans. It's a check valve that keeps pressure from the crankcase impulse signal in the tank. The porous brass connector (as illustrated in the Shop Manual section that Carl posted) allows some of the pressure to bleed back into the impulse line. If that connector is gummed up, replaced by a solid tube, or pushed all the way into the impulse line (without the recomended 1/16"-1/8" exposed portion), then the oiler can work 'too well'. My guess here is that the connector is just completely pushed into the line, with no section exposed.

 

[redunshee]

Some scans from my Clymer book.

Something is amiss here as there is no pulse outlet on my carb. I have a impulse nipple on the crankcase which I assume attaches to the hose with the duckbill valve(which I do have). This would pressurize the oil tank to my thinking. In either case with the saw off would enough pressure remain in the oil tank to keep pushing oil out the saw? I guess that's my question.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

They're great ripping/noodling saws Joe. That big open clutch cover clears noodles well.



Good deal Carl. The Poulan part made the ride just fine. Thanks again. Arrived on the Saturday, as I was running my McCulloch 740W1 (video in the Mac thread).

My poor postal carrier lady has had to haul many boxes of saws and parts to the doorstep. This time she could hear one of the saws she had to lug to the doorstep a while ago.

My family tried to abscond with the package...............as you put that Poulan part in a Girl Scout Cookies box...:jester:





A crankshaft from any SXL-AO, XL-Automatic, or Super XL Automatic will work fine for you. You need a crank from an auto oiler saw, as your "Old Blue" is just a specially labeled late production SXL-AO.





I'm thinking that the duckbill valve is still attached and functional on that impulse line. If it was gone (or sitting on the bottom of the tank), then the oiler wouldn't work for beans. It's a check valve that keeps pressure from the crankcase impulse signal in the tank. The porous brass connector (as illustrated in the Shop Manual section that Carl posted) allows some of the pressure to bleed back into the impulse line. If that connector is gummed up, replaced by a solid tube, or pushed all the way into the impulse line (without the recomended 1/16"-1/8" exposed portion), then the oiler can work 'too well'. My guess here is that the connector is just completely pushed into the line, with no section exposed.

That could be the problem. I don't have that "connector" but simply have the duckbill valve inserted over a ball point pen tube which is then inserted into the impulse line(Someone here suggested that trick). Guess pressure can't release back into the line. NOw to find that part!!!!!
Bob

 

[67L36Driver]

That could be the problem. I don't have that "connector" but simply have the duckbill valve inserted over a ball point pen tube which is then inserted into the impulse line(Someone here suggested that trick). Guess pressure can't release back into the line. NOw to find that part!!!!!
Bob

Yup, porus bronze connector is there to regulate pressure in the oil tank.


On my Clymer scans, you have to disregard the primer (purge pump) if you have an early production saw.

 

[Eccentric]

Something is amiss here as there is no pulse outlet on my carb. I have a impulse nipple on the crankcase which I assume attaches to the hose with the duckbill valve(which I do have). This would pressurize the oil tank to my thinking. In either case with the saw off would enough pressure remain in the oil tank to keep pushing oil out the saw? I guess that's my question.
Bob

Not all of these saws have that line that goes to the carb. Many don't even have the diapragm pump. They only have the impulse line from the crankcase to the oil tank (with the porous connector and duckbill) and the pickup line that runs to the bar pad.

That could be the problem. I don't have that "connector" but simply have the duckbill valve inserted over a ball point pen tube which is then inserted into the impulse line(Someone here suggested that trick). Guess pressure can't release back into the line. NOw to find that part!!!!!
Bob

The 'ball point pen tube' deal will often work just fine..........but does sometimes provide too much oiling. Residual pressure can certainly be enough for the saw to continue oozing oil after the saw is shut down. Burping the oil tank after shutoff does help significantly. An exposed, non gummed up connector helps regulate 'excessive' oiler output (as it's designed to do) too.

 

[67L36Driver]

My family tried to abscond with the package...............as you put that Poulan part in a Girl Scout Cookies box...:jester:

I can fix you up with the 'real deal' as Carlee (7) is looking for cookie customers.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That could be the problem. I don't have that "connector" but simply have the duckbill valve inserted over a ball point pen tube which is then inserted into the impulse line(Someone here suggested that trick). Guess pressure can't release back into the line. NOw to find that part!!!!!
Bob

That probably was my suggestion. I've used it many times and never found a Super 2 or XL that oiled too much. You can eliminate the oiling after shutoff by loosening the oil cap. Since I'm a simple (minded) guy I usually bypass the diaphragm on the saws with one also. The same basic oiling system is found on the 240 based saws, you can bypass the oil pump on them and run them like a Super 2, at least it worked for me.

 

[JRHAWK9]

LX-30 Bandit????

I found an LX-30 Bandit, does anybody know the specs of these things? I can't seem to find them anywhere. I have an XL (26cc), how does this Bandit compare to the smaller XL's?

thanks!

 

[paccity]

couple more into the fold.

 

[mlydgy]

Homelite XL-MB engine was used on a backpack blower.

I just removed an identical engine from a military backpack blower that had a plastic hopper(about 3 gallon size, apparently for dust chemicals). The unit was probably used for mosquito control.

good rebuild!

does it have an NSN on it anywhere? would look like the following # pattern: 1234-12-123-1234

 

[ChainLightning]

1970s Homelite Chainsaw Brochure

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Found this while going through some old stuff. My grandpa must have got this brochure when he bought his Super EZ back in the 70s. Figured it was from the mid 70s since it says, "We have sold over 800,000 of these saws since we introduced them 10 years ago. They were referring to the SUper XL and XL-12. Will not let me post the other 3 pics so I will post them in another post. Enjoy. should have scanned them :msp_wink:

 

[ChainLightning]

Here's The Other 3

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found this while going through some old stuff. My grandpa must have got this brochure when he bought his super ez back in the 70s. Figured it was from the mid 70s since it says, "we have sold over 800,000 of these saws since we introduced them 10 years ago. They were referring to the super xl and xl-12. Will not let me post the other 3 pics so i will post them in another post. Enjoy. Should have scanned them :msp_wink:

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[mlydgy]

The engine appears in good condition, nothing missing, good compression, no noticable spark but that isn't unusual for a model with ignition points that has been sitting for a good while. The engine has the standard Homelite tag with serial no. 2504166 but no NSN number. I will check the entire backpack blower to see if there is a number on it and post it if it has one.

good rebuild!

does it have an NSN on it anywhere? would look like the following # pattern: 1234-12-123-1234

 

[ford832]

Model 17

Hi guys,I posted this over on chainsaw but didn't get much info.I did a search as well but no real luck.
I was looking for a little info on my latest acquisition-historical type stuff I guess-what they were known for in their day etc-good or bad,quirks etc.Any info appreciated.Thanks.


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[ChainLightning]

80CCs of Raw Ear Bleeding Homelite Power!

Great Runner. Piston is in very good shape. Picked this bad boy up for 20 bucks.
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[ChainLightning]

Hi guys,I posted this over on chainsaw but didn't get much info.I did a search as well but no real luck.
I was looking for a little info on my latest acquisition-historical type stuff I guess-what they were known for in their day etc-good or bad,quirks etc.Any info appreciated.Thanks.


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Model Profile: 17

 

[psuiewalsh]

Great Runner. Piston is in very good shape. Picked this bad boy up for 20 bucks.

Nice. Get the earplugs warmed up.