Homelite Chainsaws

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Randy the two saws with the big bars up on the log (on the other side of me) are a Husky 394XP and a Stihl 090AV. There were no Homelite gear drives ran at this GTG to my knowledge. Dave ran his 1-61 and 660 McCulloch gear drives. Charlie ran his Wright C70 direct drive, and the 'other' Bob (and I) ran his C-52 Homelite. I also ran my McCulloch 740W1 direct drive, McCulloch SP-81, and JP's Poulan Pro 655BP.

It was hard to tell what was behind you on the log.. I could see the 090 and something red'ish colored with a long bar... hoping it was a gear drive Homie:msp_tongue:

Any video of the 660 or the SP81? I got to get me one of them 80cc MACs!
 
It was hard to tell what was behind you on the log.. I could see the 090 and something red'ish colored with a long bar... hoping it was a gear drive Homie:msp_tongue:

Any video of the 660 or the SP81? I got to get me one of them 80cc MACs!

The 660 wasn't running right. A casting plug fell out in the gas tank and fuel was coming out of the bar oil hole and 'oiling' the chain! HD Bill sez he saw flames at one point. Dave and others ran the 1-61 quite a bit. Don't think there's any video of me running my SP-81. I didn't break it out until after the GTG festivities were over and we bucked up all the remaining logs to be split for firewood. The Tuesday before the GTG, I bucked these logs to length (with my SXL-925W....which I didn't bring to the GTG) to be placed on the bunk logs. That's a great saw too. You need one of those 82cc Macs...........and I need a 7 cube 2000/2100 Homelite!:D
 
I picked up a couple of blue saws today, a decent Super Wiz, and a XL 700 or similar as it does not have the plate on it, unfortunately both had bars but had been cut off with a torch about 4 inches out, blasphemy. Will post up some pics later.
 
New project...

Roomie went to an auction and came home with another saw for me to fix up... A $15 Homelite XP 1020 Automatic... Chains a bit 'sticky' from rust, fuel line in the tank looks OK but the line to the carb is rock hard (and carb leaks a little gas), starter occasionally slips so I expect the pawls need a clean&lube, manual oiler feels a little stiff... I expect it will need new duckbills in addition to a carb kit and changing the dried out fuel line... Anything else I need to watch out for? Has an odd S/N (A 2394354) that doesn't seem to jibe with the normal 8/9 digit S/N format and no sign of a U/T... Any idea of a year of mfg?

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Your pics.

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You did VERY well with your $15. I paid more than that for a rough looking parts saw with a scored P/C.........although it DID have a 31" Cannon roller nose bar on it.

Yours looks to be in very good shape, and is an XP1020A. That makes it around a 1968-1969 model IIRC. Before the usage of UT numbers and 8/9 digit SN's. It looks to be only missing the AF cover nut and muffler cover.

It also still has the MN/SN tag, unlike the four XP series saws that I have (XP1020, XP1020 parts saw, 1050A, and Super XP1130). Replace BOTH fuel lines and rebuild the carb. RK-88HL is the kit you'll need.
 
Seems like this thread in mostly for the older/larger magnesium case'd saws, but thought I would post this in here anyway. :msp_tongue:

I currently have an older XL and love it's size and weight for doing light limbing. I was keeping an eye out for another similar one and ran across this LX30 Bandit, which looks to have been never started. I guess it's a newer version of the Super2. Guy selling stated he never started it and the fuel system is clean as a whistle. I probably paid too much for it, but I wanted it and I couldn't buy a new decent top handle saw for what I did pay for it.

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Seems like this thread in mostly for the older/larger magnesium case'd saws, but thought I would post this in here anyway. :msp_tongue:

I currently have an older XL and love it's size and weight for doing light limbing. I was keeping an eye out for another similar one and ran across this LX30 Bandit, which looks to have been never started. I guess it's a newer version of the Super2. Guy selling stated he never started it and the fuel system is clean as a whistle. I probably paid too much for it, but I wanted it and I couldn't buy a new decent top handle saw for what I did pay for it.

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There's nothing wrong with the plastic cased saws...the engine inside is metal.
 
Roomie went to an auction and came home with another saw for me to fix up... A $15 Homelite XP 1020 Automatic... Chains a bit 'sticky' from rust, fuel line in the tank looks OK but the line to the carb is rock hard (and carb leaks a little gas), starter occasionally slips so I expect the pawls need a clean&lube, manual oiler feels a little stiff... I expect it will need new duckbills in addition to a carb kit and changing the dried out fuel line... Anything else I need to watch out for? Has an odd S/N (A 2394354) that doesn't seem to jibe with the normal 8/9 digit S/N format and no sign of a U/T... Any idea of a year of mfg?

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Yes I would agree with Aaron. Change both fuel lines. The one in the tank is a bit tricky. Nice score getting that saw.
 
Homelite XL-901, 903, 904 series saw manuals

If any of you have a shop manual you could share with me for the Homelite Super XL AO and the XL-901, 903, 904 series saws it would be much appreciated.
I tried in the Beg for Manuals stickie but had zero luck.

I have a XL-902 AM which is the same series. It has an outboard clutch like the 903 & 904

I would also like to ask if there is an rim sprocket for the 901 - 904 saws that is available for this series.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim
 
If any of you have a shop manual you could share with me for the Homelite Super XL AO and the XL-901, 903, 904 series saws it would be much appreciated.
I tried in the Beg for Manuals stickie but had zero luck.

I have a XL-902 AM which is the same series. It has an outboard clutch like the 903 & 904

I would also like to ask if there is an rim sprocket for the 901 - 904 saws that is available for this series.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

Gotcha covered on the manuals. PM sent.
 
Carb issue. Does this makes sense?

There is an air leak on my XL-902. The saw tests perfectly in a vacuum/pressure test.

The only issue that I can see is the throttle rod on the carb is very worn. It is worn down .020"
The saw returns to idle very slowly.

It makes sense to me that this would be the cause. Am I on the right track?

Tim
 
There is an air leak on my XL-902. The saw tests perfectly in a vacuum/pressure test.

The only issue that I can see is the throttle rod on the carb is very worn. It is worn down .020"
The saw returns to idle very slowly.

It makes sense to me that this would be the cause. Am I on the right track?

Tim

I'll vote that way.

Still suffering the effects of last election......................................................................:msp_w00t:

Got another carb. you can try on there?
 
There is an air leak on my XL-902. The saw tests perfectly in a vacuum/pressure test.

The only issue that I can see is the throttle rod on the carb is very worn. It is worn down .020"
The saw returns to idle very slowly.

It makes sense to me that this would be the cause. Am I on the right track?

Tim

I'll vote that way.

Still suffering the effects of last election......................................................................:msp_w00t:

Got another carb. you can try on there?

A worn throttle shaft/bushings could indeed cause that problem. Sometimes you can see if that's the cause by slathering some thick grease around the shaft at the bushings/carb body. Won't stay there for long, but can temporarily 'cure' the problem long enough for you to know what the cause is.
 

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