Homelite Chainsaws

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The XP's are basically the 'next evolution' of the C-Series. Larger bore, slightly longer stroke, and a few other changes. Many parts interchange. The 2000/2100/3100G saws are the final step in the series. Same basic layout. More detail changes. Some parts interchange with the earlier saws, but many do not. A great series overall (from 77cc direct drive 'farmer saws' through 114cc gear drive monsters).

Will parts from a C-5 work on the 1020? If I can free up the piston and all looks operational I have a couple laying around that would be proud to donate there parts, I may have to spray them red first.
 
I got the oiling problem fixed on the SXL12. The line to the manual oiler wasn't tight or had some trash in it or something that kept it from sealing. I discovered two new problems though. One, the saw is leaking fuel from somewhere, and two, the manual oiler leaks. I can deal with the oiler leaking a bit, but fuel leaks I won't tolerate. Guess I'm going to have to tear it apart and replace all the gaskets.

Noticed the muffler was loose, so I figured I might as well pull the cover off and have a look at the piston. There is a little scoring. :( I was running out of daylight so I tightened the studs and put the cover back on.
 
Some will. What parts are you planning to use?

It will mostly be body parts like filter cover and clutch cover but may need to swap in a good set of points or coil, this will all depend if I can free it up without breaking a ring, might need a newer muffler, I have a green saw that needs to be finished up then it will get some bench time.
 
This is gonna blow your mind

Check out this XL-12 my buddy just bought for 5 bucks. He also got that Lombard and Poulan 25 (with original power sharp bar, chain, and system still working) for 5 bucks a piece. He gave me the Micro 25 Deluxe for working on these for him. Anyways take a good luck at the plug and plug wire on the XL-12. it blew my mind. the gas line on it is copper, as well as there are sponge like material all in the gas tank. I tried and tried to get it off from him but he would not budge. Regardless to say for 15 bucks he got a hell of a deal. View attachment 293010View attachment 293011
 
Check out this XL-12 my buddy just bought for 5 bucks. He also got that Lombard and Poulan 25 (with original power sharp bar, chain, and system still working) for 5 bucks a piece. He gave me the Micro 25 Deluxe for working on these for him. Anyways take a good luck at the plug and plug wire on the XL-12. it blew my mind. the gas line on it is copper, as well as there are sponge like material all in the gas tank. I tried and tried to get it off from him but he would n ot budge. Regardless to say for 15 bucks he got a hell of a deal. View attachment 293010View attachment 293011

The wick fuel pickup and special sparkplug/plug cap are characteristics of the earlier XL-12 series saws. I like the wick style fuel tank setup. I once ran both my early XL-12 and a later SXL-AO together after draining the fuel tanks. The XL-12 idled for at least 10 minutes after the SXL ran dry.:D
 
It will mostly be body parts like filter cover and clutch cover but may need to swap in a good set of points or coil, this will all depend if I can free it up without breaking a ring, might need a newer muffler, I have a green saw that needs to be finished up then it will get some bench time.

Everything you mentioned except the muffler will interchange. Rings are easy to find if you should break them.
 
Xl-1ao

I was just running my XL1ao, very similar to a super EZ auto but without the de-comp. I was surprised that it started because it has been temperamental. Anyway started and ran well. However it seemed to be oiling far too much and the oil was not only oiling the chain be dripping off the saw in small pools. It was also black and I don't beleave I've put old engine oil into the saw, I never have used that. Oh and it doesn't leak just sitting.

Any ideas about the oil pump?

It is one with the plastic recoil cover and the dreaded blue coil.

I've finally put the snow blower away!!
:dizzy::dizzy:
Regards,

Lee
 
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I was just running my XL1ao, very similar to a super EZ auto but without the de-comp. I was surprised that it started because it has been temperamental. Anyway started and ran well. However it seemed to be oiling far too much and the oil was not only oiling the chain be dripping off the saw in small pools. It was also black and I don't beleave I've put old engine oil into the saw, I never have used that.

Any ideas about the oil pump?

It is one with the plastic recoil cover and the dreaded blue coil.

I've finally put the snow blower away!!
:dizzy::dizzy:
Regards,

Lee

Not sure why it's oiling so much but the black may be a rubber oil line crunmbling
 
your buddy deserves the he sucks comment....:msp_biggrin:

Well he helps me out and I help him out. I usually will fix a lot of his stuff for him if it's to dirty...:msp_biggrin:. We usually break it up into he does all the recoil rewinding and I do the carb work, points cleanings, gas line work...etc. Usually works out in my favor because he usually gives me saws for working on the stuff. Thats how I get so many saws. He did have about 300 saws but sold all of them at once because he had a kid on the way and needed some cash. he kept a older Poulan and his 306 that runs the chain backwards. Anyways he is building his collection back up again and wanted a few nice Homelite's in it. I figured I would not bug him too much about buying that XL-12 off from him because he deserves that XL-12 way more than me. I just got it all cleaned up for him and I sure hope it will run.
 
Well he helps me out and I help him out. I usually will fix a lot of his stuff for him if it's to dirty...:msp_biggrin:. We usually break it up into he does all the recoil rewinding and I do the carb work, points cleanings, gas line work...etc. Usually works out in my favor because he usually gives me saws for working on the stuff. Thats how I get so many saws. He did have about 300 saws but sold all of them at once because he had a kid on the way and needed some cash. he kept a older Poulan and his 306 that runs the chain backwards. Anyways he is building his collection back up again and wanted a few nice Homelite's in it. I figured I would not bug him too much about buying that XL-12 off from him because he deserves that XL-12 way more than me. I just got it all cleaned up for him and I sure hope it will run.

Surely it will. It looks far too good not to run.
 
Hey guys have a question. The air filter in my gas cap on my super xlao is brass? and I am havin bad problems with my tank pressurizing and killing the saw. How do i take out filter and check valve, and is there a way to restore either of them?

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Ive tried everything i know and i cant get the filter out....

I really dont want to have to replace the cap just bc i cant dig the filter out.

Any tips on how to remove said filter? Its so bad the gas almost looks to boil in the tank, and i think its due to overheating. So i rebuilt carb, new plug, new fuel and oil lines, and new fuel filter.
Has to be due to the valve right?

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Ive tried everything i know and i cant get the filter out....

I really dont want to have to replace the cap just bc i cant dig the filter out.

Any tips on how to remove said filter? Its so bad the gas almost looks to boil in the tank, and i think its due to overheating. So i rebuilt carb, new plug, new fuel and oil lines, and new fuel filter.
Has to be due to the valve right?

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

Plastic is more pliable when heated. If ya have a heat gun, warm the area around the filter insert, and this can help soften the cap so the insert filter can be worked out. Be careful not to get it so hot the cap melts, and since its the fuel cap ya may want to play it safe and rinse a few times with degreaser before heating it up. I have broken off a few and needed to then dig out the remainder and replace it. I usually grab long nosed vise grips, but keep thinking of using a tap wrench to see if it'll fit over the insert, just haven't replaced one since the idea started floating around. May not fit, but if it will, it'll grab from all sides.

Dan
 
Alright, had to try the tap wrench, and it does work fine.

P1000887_zps4b45eb24.jpg


...and of course after thinking, I made a big assumption of the style of gas cap you have. The newer caps have the insert on the side, not underneath in the center like the older type. The tap wrench won't do much good on the newer type caps. These can be dug out with a small screwdriver or pick starting from the under side. I jumped to the conclusion you had the older style, which may well not be the case. Any case, a little heat helps whatever style you have.

Dan
 
Mine is in the side of the gas cap. Its a '96 super xlao

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