Homelite Chainsaws

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The duckbill valve in the cap is NOT intended to keep the fuel tank from 'pressurizing'. It's a one-way valve to let air IN as fuel is drawn out while retaining fuel and pressure. There is almost always pressure in the tank, especially once the fuel warms up and vibrations 'shake it up'. As the other guys said, these saws will boil the fuel when they get hot. Clean the cylinder fins. Clean out the underside of the flywheel cover. BTW..............pressure in the tank will RAISE the boiling temp of the fuel. Lower pressure (like when you remove the cap) will lower the boiling temperature. That's why hot saws will suddenly boil the fuel when you remove the cap. Think of the radiator cap on your car....

Kinda the reason the more modern saws have the fuel tank back near the handle and made of plastic.
 
New dedicated saw workbench I have been working on.

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I can only imagine the rush of cutting something that big. Holly crap. I've cut some big tulips out here on the east cost, and they got the knees to bobbin. You gotta cut the saw of and listen to it fall. WOW!

I saw a tree almost that big when I was in Evansville last week, right in town! No way would I attempt to cut that one down..
 
Figured out where the reed valves were and checked them out. Seem good. Same problem. Can get a couple pops out of it then nothing. Very wet in the cylinder. Could gas be leaking through into the cylinder from somewhere. As well I'm going to pull the flywheel and make sure the key way Hansent sheared. Could be a timing problem.

Still scratching my head.

Ok I soaked it in acetone and put a new carb kit in and it's still flooding like crazy. Looks to be a issue with the carb itself to me. Unless the lever is set wrong. Needle not seating? A port still plugged? Damage to the carb? After I put the kit in dry it fire and ran for a couple secs till it flooded again.

Any ideas?
 
When I was waiting for parts to come for the Titans, I worked
on this saw. I got this saw a few weeks ago. It looked like a pig pen. :lol:
I was going to repaint the whole thing, but after cleaning it up it did not look to bad.
I just painted the the top cover and rear handle and put decals on it.

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Ok I soaked it in acetone and put a new carb kit in and it's still flooding like crazy. Looks to be a issue with the carb itself to me. Unless the lever is set wrong. Needle not seating? A port still plugged? Damage to the carb? After I put the kit in dry it fire and ran for a couple secs till it flooded again.

Any ideas?

Metering lever height set wrong.................or possibly you have the metering chamber gasket and diaphragm order wrong. Gasket should go on first, followed by the diaphragm. Other possiblility is that the needle isn't seating right with the seat (either grit holding it open, or the seat is damaged). With the carb all assembled, put a piece of fuel line on the inlet barb and presurize it with your mouth (or with a low pressure pump and about 5 pounds of air). Should hold. Is your carb a Walbro or a Zama (can't remember if you stated..........and that saw could have either)...

http://www.walbro.com/media/21907/WTseries.pdf
 
Does this conrod look alright to you guys???

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This came to me in a 240. The crank would only turn through a range of about 120 degrees.............and the piston stayed in one spot. All the rolllers are GONE. Cylinder and piston look to be just about undamaged (just some carbon staining). Rings look OK. The rod is discolored (blue) from a point about midway down the beam and all the way through what's left of the big end. Small end (and bearing) is fine. I'm going to scare up another crank/rod assembly and throw this bugger back together.
 
If any of you have seen mine I hope you forgot what it looks like...

Yeah, that is the only clean spot in the garage right now. Everything else cleared out for the photo. Still have to get my chain grinder and spinner/breaker mounted.

Bet he's even got heat and A.C. in his shop.

Pot Likker....................................................................................

Hey! I resemble that comment! :hmm3grin2orange:

Wish I had AC in there. That big metal box can get a little hot in the summer. Thought about adding a gable exhaust fan to help pull the hot air out.



The idea is to only use the bench for saws. We'll see if it works out that way.

Built some shelves for the saws and parts too. I'll have to post some pics of that later.
 
When I was waiting for parts to come for the Titans, I worked
on this saw. I got this saw a few weeks ago. It looked like a pig pen. :lol:
I was going to repaint the whole thing, but after cleaning it up it did not look to bad.
I just painted the the top cover and rear handle and put decals on it.

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All I can say is WOW! Those series of saws don't seem to exist around here. Perfect job restoring it:rock: The evidence of light wear you left on it really makes it attractive as far as I'm concerned.

What do you use on your bar to make it look so nice?
 
Metering lever height set wrong.................or possibly you have the metering chamber gasket and diaphragm order wrong. Gasket should go on first, followed by the diaphragm. Other possiblility is that the needle isn't seating right with the seat (either grit holding it open, or the seat is damaged). With the carb all assembled, put a piece of fuel line on the inlet barb and presurize it with your mouth (or with a low pressure pump and about 5 pounds of air). Should hold. Is your carb a Walbro or a Zama (can't remember if you stated..........and that saw could have either)...

http://www.walbro.com/media/21907/WTseries.pdf

It's a tillosten. The needle hads a Bit of rubber on the end which is supposed to make the seal? Don't remember seeing a gasket for the needle to seat against. I haven't popped out the plugs to clean under them. That's my next step I think.
 

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