Homelite Chainsaws

[sawnami]

All I've got left.:msp_rolleyes: Decided to keep some for the future.

 

[psuiewalsh]

have taken the oil pump off my SXLAO and cleaned it up real well. looks like the cam on the plunger is pretty well worn out. anyone got an extra, serviceable plunger?
also, should any of the components be greased when reassembling?
also, i'm guessing the worm gear is turned by friction from the clutch. correct? if not, how?

There is a plastic plunger assembly in the handle in the box with your name on it already. If you need the automatic pump I can get a bigger box and throw the whole carcass in there.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

All I've got left.:msp_rolleyes: Decided to keep some for the future.

so you saying these are NOT for sale or these ARE for sale. with that number of bars you need to live as long as methuselah to wear them out. hope you do.

 

[sawnami]

They're not for sale Jerry. Might trade certain ones if I come up in need of something some day. I sold 40 of them before I realized that I'd better keep some of them.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

They're not for sale Jerry. Might trade certain ones if I come up in need of something some day. I sold 40 of them before I realized that I'd better keep some of them.

well shoot. i musta been sleeping

 

[sawnami]

Naw, that was about 5 years ago. I came across them at an antique car swap meet. I saw a stack of Homelite bar sleeves under one of the vendor's tables. He didn't want to take them back home and I did. :msp_w00t:

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Naw, that was about 5 years ago. I came across them at an antique car swap meet. I saw a stack of Homelite bar sleeves under one of the vendor's tables. He didn't want to take them back home and I did. :msp_w00t:

Outstanding

 

[machinisttx]

yeah the ceramic was pretty clean whereas the rest of it was dripping.
right now i'm trying to decide if i want to customize some rings for this beast. measured everything last night. could only measure at the bottom of the bore since i only have dial calipers.
measured 90* apart i got 2.01 and 2.03 on the jug (51.3mm). i'm figuring its probly a little larger up in the working area so what i list below should probly be adjusted accordingly.
ring thickness - 0.061" (1.55mm)
ring gap is ~0.102"
pin dimension - ~0.065"
that leaves an effective gap of 0.102 - 0.065 = 0.037"
given the prevailing wisdom that ring gap should be jug diameter x 0.005 i should be getting ~0.0101"
my effective gap is over 3 times the "desired" gap.
is this normal for the C5?
could i expect to gain any noticeable compression by filing down a 51.3mm x 1.5mm caber ring to obtain an effective gap of 0.01"?
has anyone done this?
any issues?
will the bottom end take the extra compression?
also, has anyone modified a notched set of rings for this saw?
etc.

Pick up a set of telescoping gages from a machine tools supplier like this one. Enco The bore may not be worn evenly.

 

[Junorr500]

Yep I've read it. Still don't know what to do. Time to throw it it the spare pile I think. Could it still be a problem with the reed valves?

Ok I cheked the needle seat and cleaned it up a bit. needle seat was worn to a cone. I had to ream it flat again. Needle should be seating fine now but it still floods out. Could I have a problem with the crank seals and would that cause flooding and a falilure to fire.

 

[sawnami]

I think it's been mentioned before, but have you tried putting about 5psi. of pressure in the fuel inlet of the carb to see if it holds? I had a McCulloch flat back that took several times to get a needle and seat set up that wouldn't leak. It looked great but would still leak down when I put pressure on it.

By "failure to fire" do mean no spark when you pull the wire and check it?

 

[homelitejim]

I am a sucker for the 1960's Homelite gear drive saws, which I consider the sexiest saws ever made. I almost passed on these 2 model 17's as I have a few in my shop but I just can't stand knowing that they may get shredded so I brought them home, they will go in the pile until I can get to them.

 

[machinisttx]

Picked up a complete 150(I think, haven't gone over it well yet) and a metal cased XL today for about $4 each. The XL went to my uncle for parts.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Picked up a complete 150(I think, haven't gone over it well yet) and a metal cased XL today for about $4 each. The XL went to my uncle for parts.

Don't listen to the anti-150 crowd...they can be made into decent saws if done right.

 

[Junorr500]

I think it's been mentioned before, but have you tried putting about 5psi. of pressure in the fuel inlet of the carb to see if it holds? I had a McCulloch flat back that took several times to get a needle and seat set up that wouldn't leak. It looked great but would still leak down when I put pressure on it.

By "failure to fire" do mean no spark when you pull the wire and check it?

I'm not set up with a gauge or a pump to put pressure on the inlet. I should get the stuff so I can do that though. It fires once or twice then quits. If the carb is completely dry it might run for a few seconds till it floods again.

 

[sawnami]

Might test the condenser or swap it out and see what happens for your spark loss concern. They can really mess with you sometimes. Still sounds like the needle and seat may still be leaking.

 

[huck01955]

I am a sucker for the 1960's Homelite gear drive saws, which I consider the sexiest saws ever made. I almost passed on these 2 model 17's as I have a few in my shop but I just can't stand knowing that they may get shredded so I brought them home, they will go in the pile until I can get to them.

Nice score :msp_thumbup:

 

[5speed]

Hey guys just got some spare time and an idea, but running a file along the spikes on my XL 12.

Was wanting to give the saw a break when goin in hard so I figured I would mod spikes to go in and come out easier and cleaner.

So 25 min later and lots of swearing, heres a start.

View attachment 294821
View attachment 294822

Im filing a triangular point on each tooth. Im hoping that if it looks really nice when complete, i may re-paint and badge my saw, and paint the spikes black, then hit each angle with a file untill the teeth gleam. Make her look as mean as she sounds.

~5-Speed~

 

[machinisttx]

Don't listen to the anti-150 crowd...they can be made into decent saws if done right.

The paint is flaking off the saw, but I'm almost certain that it still has the original B/C on it. The inspector's tag is still on the plastic handguard, and it has the stupid little bar nose guard thing to prevent kickback. Unfortunately, no pull rope or starter handle, but those are easy to replace.

 

[leecopland]

Rule #1

Picked up a complete 150(I think, haven't gone over it well yet) and a metal cased XL today for about $4 each. The XL went to my uncle for parts.

Rule #1 -No pics - Didn't happin!!:hmm3grin2orange:

Lee

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Don't listen to the anti-150 crowd...they can be made into decent saws if done right.

I have two of different color schemes and almost snagged a blue version but would have had to buy a couple other saws as a batch to get it, so I passed. I just like em because of their odd ball shape/design.:cool2: