Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

I thought I knew the answer to this but I'll ask it anyway...does a Homelite Zip have automatic oiling? I didn't think so but I started mine up after it sat for over a year and after a few seconds of running the chain had a bunch of oil on it and I didn't use the manual oiler any, actually I forgot. If it is a manual oiler only I wonder how it oiled the chain....

 

[machinisttx]

It's a tillosten. The needle hads a Bit of rubber on the end which is supposed to make the seal? Don't remember seeing a gasket for the needle to seat against. I haven't popped out the plugs to clean under them. That's my next step I think.

I've only ever seen two styles of needles and seats in small engine carbs. One uses a rubber tipped needle to create the seal, and the other uses a replaceable rubber gasket at the bottom of the needle bore with a steel needle. Sometimes the carbs with the rubber tipped needles will end up with some corrosion on the bearing surface and then the needle can't form a seal as it should.

 

[Junorr500]

I've only ever seen two styles of needles and seats in small engine carbs. One uses a rubber tipped needle to create the seal, and the other uses a replaceable rubber gasket at the bottom of the needle bore with a steel needle. Sometimes the carbs with the rubber tipped needles will end up with some corrosion on the bearing surface and then the needle can't form a seal as it should.

I'll have to pull it apart and check the surface. It's the welch plugs I have to pull and clean behind. Never one it before so should be educational.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

All I can say is WOW! Those series of saws don't seem to exist around here. Perfect job restoring it The evidence of light wear you left on it really makes it attractive as far as I'm concerned.

What do you use on your bar to make it look so nice?

Thanks.

I sand the bar down real good then paint it. I know if I were to saw with it the paint would wear off after awhile. This time I used Dupli-color Medium Marblehead Met.

 

[Eccentric]

It's a tillosten. The needle hads a Bit of rubber on the end which is supposed to make the seal? Don't remember seeing a gasket for the needle to seat against. I haven't popped out the plugs to clean under them. That's my next step I think.

Which model Tillotson carburetor does it have? Most of the smaller 'cube' carbs have a metal needle and a metal seat. The tapers are different for the needle tip and the seat 'hole' (like with automotive intake/exhaust valves and seats). If there's any grit down in there the needle/seat won't close. Also, if either surface is damaged then it won't close off.

I thought I knew the answer to this but I'll ask it anyway...does a Homelite Zip have automatic oiling? I didn't think so but I started mine up after it sat for over a year and after a few seconds of running the chain had a bunch of oil on it and I didn't use the manual oiler any, actually I forgot. If it is a manual oiler only I wonder how it oiled the chain....

No auto pump on those Joe. The oil tank is up high above the manual oiler pump and the bar pad, so it may just be vibrations and gravity making things flow here, especially if the outlet check valve is being held off its seat by some grit/mung.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Which model Tillotson carburetor does it have? Most of the smaller 'cube' carbs have a metal needle and a metal seat. The tapers are different for the needle tip and the seat 'hole' (like with automotive intake/exhaust valves and seats). If there's any grit down in there the needle/seat won't close. Also, if either surface is damaged then it won't close off.



No auto pump on those Joe. The oil tank is up high above the manual oiler pump and the bar pad, so it may just be vibrations and gravity making things flow here, especially if the outlet check valve is being held off its seat by some grit/mung.

Thanks, Aaron. I assumed it didn't have auto oiler but when I saw the oil on the bar it made me wonder.

 

[5speed]

This saw has no markings left except the homelite sticker on the air filter cover.

UT 104453
SN 380250007

Can you all tell me make and year model please? Got it for $40 and runs like a top!

~5-Speed~

 

[leecopland]

Picture would help

This saw has no markings left except the homelite sticker on the air filter cover.

UT 104453
SN 380250007

Can you all tell me make and year model please? Got it for $40 and runs like a top!

~5-Speed~

:msp_smile::msp_smile:

Lee

 

[5speed]

I think SN says 1978 built Jan 25th? And UT is xl12?

~5-Speed~

 

[Acornhill]

Super XL Blue

Hello, first time posting in the Homelite sticky, i live in the Poulan sticky most of the time and venture over to the Pioneer sticky as well.

I have several Homelites but never had time to mess with them until this weekend. This is a exceptionally clean Super XL that runs great. i cleaned her up and added fuel line and new filter and she fired up after 5/6 pulls. can some tell me what the adjustment screws are by the handle and oil cap?

Not a bad saw from the sound of it.

View attachment 293917 SuperXL.jpg (304.0 KB)

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hello, first time posting in the Homelite sticky, i live in the Poulan sticky most of the time and venture over to the Pioneer sticky as well.

I have several Homelites but never had time to mess with them until this weekend. This is a exceptionally clean Super XL that runs great. i cleaned her up and added fuel line and new filter and she fired up after 5/6 pulls. can some tell me what the adjustment screws are by the handle and oil cap?

Not a bad saw from the sound of it.

View attachment 293917 SuperXL.jpg (304.0 KB)

If you're talking about the screw by the oil cap it's not an adjustment. The XL isn't an adjustable oiler. I think it's just a cap or a way to get to the guts of the oiler.

Those Super XLs are almost bullet proof. I think I still have 3 or 4 of them, very reliable saws..

 

[Eccentric]

Hello, first time posting in the Homelite sticky, i live in the Poulan sticky most of the time and venture over to the Pioneer sticky as well.

I have several Homelites but never had time to mess with them until this weekend. This is a exceptionally clean Super XL that runs great. i cleaned her up and added fuel line and new filter and she fired up after 5/6 pulls. can some tell me what the adjustment screws are by the handle and oil cap?

Not a bad saw from the sound of it.

View attachment 293917 SuperXL.jpg (304.0 KB)

If you're talking about the screw by the oil cap it's not an adjustment. The XL isn't an adjustable oiler. I think it's just a cap or a way to get to the guts of the oiler.

Those Super XLs are almost bullet proof. I think I still have 3 or 4 of them, very reliable saws..

That large sloted screw lookin' thing next to the oil fill cap is the oil pickup. It's a long threaded plug body with ports on the side, and the pickup line attached to the bottom of it. This weekend I took this out of my SXL-AO as it wasn't oiling for beans. Expected to see the pickup screen clogged. Instead, the pickup line was collapsed flat like a tape worm. Line had deteriorated. Swapped in a new length of line and it's good to go. Should have taken a pic...

Here's an example I found on ebay in a quick search. I'm not endorsing the auction.........just using it for the pic. He calls it an "oil adjustment pickup". It doesn't have anything to do with adjustment...

Homelite Super XL XL 12 Oil Pick Up Hose Assembly New W | eBay

This is what it looks like without the rubber tube in between the strainer and the pickup body. The later pickup bodies like this one are plastic. The older ones are metal. Again, I'm not endorsing the auction...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-Su...141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41717fefed

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That large sloted screw lookin' thing next to the oil fill cap is the oil pickup. It's a long threaded plug body with ports on the side, and the pickup line attached to the bottom of it. This weekend I took this out of my SXL-AO as it wasn't oiling for beans. Expected to see the pickup screen clogged. Instead, the pickup line was collapsed flat like a tape worm. Line had deteriorated. Swapped in a new length of line and it's good to go. Should have taken a pic...

Here's an example I found on ebay in a quick search. I'm not endorsing the auction.........just using it for the pic. He calls it an "oil adjustment pickup". It doesn't have anything to do with adjustment...

Homelite Super XL XL 12 Oil Pick Up Hose Assembly New W | eBay

This is what it looks like without the rubber tube in between the strainer and the pickup body. The later pickup bodies like this one are plastic. The older ones are metal. Again, I'm not endorsing the auction...

Homelite Super XL Automatic Oil Pickup Tube and Strainer | eBay

Thanks for the help Aaron. I knew they weren't adjustable but didn't explain the rest too well. I'm not endorsing ebay, they keep getting worse every year for buyers and sellers alike...

 

[Acornhill]

Thanks for the help Aaron. I knew they weren't adjustable but didn't explain the rest too well. I'm not endorsing ebay, they keep getting worse every year for buyers and sellers alike...

i have two more Red Super XL's and two blue XL-12's and one red XL 12 as well as a Super 2 and a XL Auto. i should be able to get 5 more good saws out of them all.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

i have two more Red Super XL's and two blue XL-12's and one red XL 12 as well as a Super 2 and a XL Auto. i should be able to get 5 more good saws out of them all.

With a little investment you could have 7..

There's a fellow down the street from me with a bunch of the Super XL and XL12 type parts saws and he's wanting to sell me all of them..trouble is, we're not meeting halfway on the price yet.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Zip with not much Zip

I fired up my Homelite Zip for the first time in about a year and tinkered with it a little and noticed it's a little low on power. I tried a 24" bar on it first and it bogged down really bad in a tree stump, so switched to a 20" bar and it seemed a little better. I adjusted the carb every way I could but it just doesn't seem to have much zip. I have a lawnmower muffler on it and I drilled a few holes in the front of it hoping to ease the backpressure and it did a little. Maybe I need to check the compression? The thing starts easy and idles like a new one just doesn't have much power in the wood...

 

[Eccentric]

If you have it too lean on the H side it will fall on its face in the cut. They like to run rich.

Comp could be low. At 90 PSI it will start and idle fine, but not have much 'zip'.

 

[fossil]

If you have it too lean on the H side it will fall on its face in the cut. They like to run rich.

Comp could be low. At 90 PSI it will start and idle fine, but not have much 'zip'.

That sounds like a description of me.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you have it too lean on the H side it will fall on its face in the cut. They like to run rich.

Comp could be low. At 90 PSI it will start and idle fine, but not have much 'zip'.

I'll check the compression in a day or two and let you know. The way it runs I'd bet the compression is a bit low, after all the thing is 40 some years old and I don't think it's been apart.
I said 40 some, I guess mine is over 50 years old. It really doesn't matter if the saw won't cut with power, I'll probably keep it as is, it's mainly for display anyway but it sounds interesting with it's modified lawnmower muffler. I forgot to mention I've already cleaned and kitted the carburetor and it has great spark.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

finally getting around to replacing the p&c on my C5 (thanks aaron for the new p&c) and this is what i found. rebuilt saw has about 4 - 5 hours on it. the plug doesn't look that bad but is still oilly. the p&c are both real oily. the combusion chamber was spotless when previously assembled. this was rebuilt with new rings and new base gasket. some questions
any problem putting it back together w/o base gasket? (this one came apart during disassembly) i haven't checked new squish yet but assuming it is > 0.02"????
is the apparent blow-by due to not being broken in or some flaked off cylinder liner or large ring gap or lean mix or ????
when i checked the ring gap on the new rings prior to assembly it was rather large. even considering the extra space for the pins (sorry, didn't remeasure yet). is it possible to get some new oversized rings and file them down to obtain a real tight gap? what would be a good gap.
i know these are sposed to have pretty good compression so the torque can present itself. this one tended to bog when leaned on, hence the quick teardown and rebuild.
or, is this saw just a money pit?
really like it but can't put up with a ##### saw.
whatchuguys think?