A Homelite assembled from US parts in Canada. Some models were sold in Canada only, differ slightly from US models and have a Canada specific model number.
It looks like a 900 series, could be 77 or 82cc
Homelite Chainsaws
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A Homelite assembled from US parts in Canada. Some models were sold in Canada only, differ slightly from US models and have a Canada specific model number.
It looks like a 900 series, could be 77 or 82cc
Clarkbug
ArboristSite Operative
So does anyone happen to have the owners' manual for a 360 or a Super 1050? I feel like Im going to ask a lot of questions that would be easily answered if I had that as a reference....
For instance, Im just trying to determine the right way to pull the sprocket from the 360. Also, trying the JB Weld on the starter cup since the only one I see for sale on eBay is more than I paid for the saw. Figure I should see if it fires up before I spend too much money on the worn bits and pieces...
For instance, Im just trying to determine the right way to pull the sprocket from the 360. Also, trying the JB Weld on the starter cup since the only one I see for sale on eBay is more than I paid for the saw. Figure I should see if it fires up before I spend too much money on the worn bits and pieces...
Chick your PM. I sent you a repair manual
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yep. The US equivalent model would likely be an XL-921 through XL-925. Looks to have handlebar & bracket from an earlier model swapped on.
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Clarkbug
ArboristSite Operative
Great, thanks!
Warped5
WingNut
Yup, by the UTF number, an XL925.
Maybe it's just me
I'm still having trouble getting the Super 2 to run right so I parked it for awhile. Went to the local shop to see if they had any fixer upper saws for sale and they showed me a Super 2 that looked just like new and he said all it needed was the recoil fixed so I repaired it and tried to start it. It ran kinda lousy and I noticed the duckbill valve was missing from the oil tank so I took it apart and did a few things that I thought it needed like cleaning plus installed the db valves. Went out to start it today and it wouldn't hit a lick! Fuel poured out of the exhaust so I checked the spark and it was still there. I'm not sure what happened this time. I didn't do anything to the carburetor except clean the outside of it...
I'm still having trouble getting the Super 2 to run right so I parked it for awhile. Went to the local shop to see if they had any fixer upper saws for sale and they showed me a Super 2 that looked just like new and he said all it needed was the recoil fixed so I repaired it and tried to start it. It ran kinda lousy and I noticed the duckbill valve was missing from the oil tank so I took it apart and did a few things that I thought it needed like cleaning plus installed the db valves. Went out to start it today and it wouldn't hit a lick! Fuel poured out of the exhaust so I checked the spark and it was still there. I'm not sure what happened this time. I didn't do anything to the carburetor except clean the outside of it...
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
On that latest saw, it sounds to me like a bad (or dirty) needle/seat. Carb cleaning/rebuild should do the trick...
I went out to mess with them a little this morning, not expecting much, I pulled the rope on the latest saw and it fired right up and ran just fine! I adjusted the idle a small amount and now it idles and runs just about perfect. I guess there's no adjusting the high speed but it four cycles anyway so I at least have the best one running. I assume I had it flooded before because I didn't hear it hit so I didn't turn off the choke in time.
The second one started also but I adjusted it in every direction and I just couldn't get it to idle down. I think I will look for an older carburetor for it that has the two mixture screws instead of the one. I couldn't find anything else wrong with the saw, both of them oil the bar great. Going to the flea markets tomorrow, someone usually has an old XL or Super 2 for sale so hopefully I'll find one with a carb I can use.
I don't think the first one has an air leak because I can make it go slow, it just dies when I try to idle it.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Air leaks don't always make the saw impossible to adjust the idle down.
Clarkbug
ArboristSite Operative
So I got some time to play with the new pair of Homelites today. The 360 starter cup with JB Weld didn't stand up to a pull, so I'm going to hunt one of those down. Otherwise looks OK to me. Want to see if she is a runner before I go too crazy. Will need to try and fab up a clutch wrench I think. No good holes in the spider to use to help me get it off. Sprocket is pretty wasted.
Attached are a few other pics of the 1050. You guys didn't warn me how hard it would be to pull over! Im not that old but DAMN. Wouldn't fire, and the culprit was... no fuel line left in the tank. Ut oh. Line under the air filter is like iron. Pulled the carb and its glued together with yellow bad gas. Yeech. Time for a rebuild. Chain is pretty flat spotted (its a Stihl chipper or semi-chisel in .404 I think) on the bottom of the links. Also some deep grooves on the bar tip. Not sure how they will pan out yet.
Time to read up some in the shop manual.
Attached are a few other pics of the 1050. You guys didn't warn me how hard it would be to pull over! Im not that old but DAMN. Wouldn't fire, and the culprit was... no fuel line left in the tank. Ut oh. Line under the air filter is like iron. Pulled the carb and its glued together with yellow bad gas. Yeech. Time for a rebuild. Chain is pretty flat spotted (its a Stihl chipper or semi-chisel in .404 I think) on the bottom of the links. Also some deep grooves on the bar tip. Not sure how they will pan out yet.
Time to read up some in the shop manual.
watsonr
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Have you looked the the clutch spring. Maybe why it won't idle down.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Slowly pull the rope until the engine rolls just past TDC and STOP. Carefully reset the rope (without rolling the engine further past TDC), focus, and pull like you mean it. Makes it much easier to start high compression engines without compression releases.
Homelite410
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I gots me one of those.
Its a good gtg saw.... too heavy for firewood and my poor hands can only take a couple cuts before they tingle.
If I remember correctly these little saws have the "S" shaped clutch that doesn't have springs. I'm a little stubborn I guess thinking it has something wrong with the carburetor instead of an air leak but I don't know where it could be leaking except from the crankcase and I'm not seeing any oily places. I have another project I think I'll tackle first, going to try to turn my Super EZ parts saw into a runner then I'll get back to the remaining Super 2.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
:deadhorse:
If the throttle shaft bushings/holes in the carb body are worn it can suck air past them (and idle high) as well...
Clarkbug
ArboristSite Operative
I knew there had to be a trick to getting that beast to pull over!
Any one happen to know the right size fuel line for this saw? I dont trust measuring the one on there, its pretty swollen and funky, and I wanted to get some replacement line for it.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Any value to Homelite branded chain? Ended up with a few loops out of the bucket I got from Definitive Dave.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Depends on which tank fitting you have. Tank to carb line should be 3/16" ID in any case. I've used 3/16" automotive fuel line for this piece, as it's OD seals nicely in the pass-through hole of the carb box. Gotta oil the outside of the line a bit to get 'er through that hole. I did work on one saw that must've had a smaller pass-through hole, as 3/16" ID automotive line would NOT go through. Ended up using 3/16"x5/16" Tygon type line on that one.
In-tank line could be 1/8" ID or 3/16" ID. I've seen both types of fittings. One type has barbs for 3/16" lines on both ends............and the other has the large barb on the outside end and a long skinny barb for 1/8" line on the inside end. 1/8"x1/4" or .117x.211" line will work fine on the long/skinny barb. 3/16"x5/16" line will work fine on the 'big barb' version.
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