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Super 2

I got back on to the Super 2 today after taking time away from it because it was driving me crazy(er). I was told it might not be the carburetor since I've cleaned it numerous times and it still wouldn't idle. Here's what I did, I first did my little unofficial pressure test and vac test which showed nothing wrong. I took the carburetor off the saw and dipped it in carb cleaner for a couple of hours then put it in hot water then blew it out with compressed air, then I replaced the engine! I replaced it all except the carburetor because I didn't have another one. Fired it up and it ran just as before....So this week I'm going on a search for a carburetor for it. My little Super EZ is the same way but it may have an air leak, I haven't checked anything but the intake and it's sealed up pretty good. I know it's not the carb on it because I did have an extra to try..
 
when i pressure tested my super ez the leak was around the cylinder base gasket. surprised me. everything else was good except the comp release ,and it still leaks a little, even after lapping.
 
Been looking for an early XL12. May be getting closer. Picked up this "barn find".
9edatymu.jpg
a5ajujuz.jpg
 
Been looking for an early XL12. May be getting closer. Picked up this "barn find".

Looks like an early one indeed. Has the 'button' starter cover, wick style fuel tank, and the black/white badging on the starter cover (instead of red/white). Probably has the smaller diameter PTO snout on the crank (which takes different clutch parts). It'll have 5/16" bar studs too. Still has the early style spark plug and cap (many were retrofitted with a 'regular' cap to take CJ8 type plugs). Stack muffler. Oughta clean up pretty well. If you need parts for it let me know. I have spares of most everything on that saw except for P/C's. 5/16" slot bars too....
 
And another prime example here. I've had the gear drive for some time now and thanks to a fellow friend and member... Aaron, he had the saw and was searching for a drive. So being that they needed put together to actually work, a trade was made. Aaron, very nice job on the saw, it ran great and started on the 4th pull from dry.


It needed the normal clutch removed to add the gear drive, what a pain to mount the drive on this beast! I am surprised that it only has three shoes. Can anybody say this is normal for an XL-15?


Remove the drum and nut, slide the drive on, but not before the spacers and bar. Trying to hold it all together at once was the chore.


Tighten it all down


and replace the chain cover


Filled with oil to the fill hole and fired up.. if you notice, the rakers are almost flat. I can pull up on the bar as hard as I can and not slow it down with a 16" bar! I'll be mounting a larger bar after I run it good this weekend, probably a 24" roller nose. Seems to cut almost as fast as a normal XL-12, wonder what the drive ratio is... anybody?

I've been chasing this saw nearly since I joined, thanks Aaron.. I'm happy, happy, happy today!
 
And another prime example here. I've had the gear drive for some time now and thanks to a fellow friend and member... Aaron, he had the saw and was searching for a drive. So being that they needed put together to actually work, a trade was made. Aaron, very nice job on the saw, it ran great and started on the 4th pull from dry.


It needed the normal clutch removed to add the gear drive, what a pain to mount the drive on this beast! I am surprised that it only has three shoes. Can anybody say this is normal for an XL-15?


Remove the drum and nut, slide the drive on, but not before the spacers and bar. Trying to hold it all together at once was the chore.


Tighten it all down


and replace the chain cover


Filled with oil to the fill hole and fired up.. if you notice, the rakers are almost flat. I can pull up on the bar as hard as I can and not slow it down with a 16" bar! I'll be mounting a larger bar after I run it good this weekend, probably a 24" roller nose. Seems to cut almost as fast as a normal XL-12, wonder what the drive ratio is... anybody?

I've been chasing this saw nearly since I joined, thanks Aaron.. I'm happy, happy, happy today!

2.91 to 1 and I believe it's supposed to have 6 shoes.

6b6b89df0b34d644a811319613b5cd16.jpg


Very nice RARE saw. Great combined effort to make a complete running saw!
 
Looks like an early one indeed. Has the 'button' starter cover, wick style fuel tank, and the black/white badging on the starter cover (instead of red/white). Probably has the smaller diameter PTO snout on the crank (which takes different clutch parts). It'll have 5/16" bar studs too. Still has the early style spark plug and cap (many were retrofitted with a 'regular' cap to take CJ8 type plugs). Stack muffler. Oughta clean up pretty well. If you need parts for it let me know. I have spares of most everything on that saw except for P/C's. 5/16" slot bars too....

Thanks for the offer! I'm afraid it will go on the "to do" pile for the time. Couldn't pass it up.

is that the one that was on the springfield cl off and on for a month?

Probably, Jerry. I decided to wait him out until he dropped the price and he did.

And even has the stack muffler, Plus all
those old cob webs.




Lee

The cobwebs are what sold me. :D
 
Hey today I cut a load trailer of standing dead elm and figured I would try out the Super XL I bought this spring for $10:hmm3grin2orange: I poured the old syrup out of the fuel tank and put fresh in and primed it with a little bottle feed of mix and it took off and ran. I did notice after a while though it would slightly idle up after a cut and then settle back down. Further inspection by laying it on its side it would almost die if recoil side is laid down.

I'm guessing it needs a flywheel seal. Does anyone have an after market seal number for this saw or do I have to go with some type of OEM seal?

I was rather impressed at how well it runs though. Strong saw for its age. Kind of makes sense why there are so many of them still out there.

I stopped running it out of fear of running it too lean. It was still four stroking out of cut but not taking the risk on it.
 
Hey today I cut a load trailer of standing dead elm and figured I would try out the Super XL I bought this spring for $10:hmm3grin2orange: I poured the old syrup out of the fuel tank and put fresh in and primed it with a little bottle feed of mix and it took off and ran. I did notice after a while though it would slightly idle up after a cut and then settle back down. Further inspection by laying it on its side it would almost die if recoil side is laid down.

I'm guessing it needs a flywheel seal. Does anyone have an after market seal number for this saw or do I have to go with some type of OEM seal?

I was rather impressed at how well it runs though. Strong saw for its age. Kind of makes sense why there are so many of them still out there.

I stopped running it out of fear of running it too lean. It was still four stroking out of cut but not taking the risk on it.

If your IPL PN is PTO and F/W 58308A or 12282A. SKF 6119 double lip. SKF 6120 single lip. National
253747.
 
Was just looking at saws on Acre's site. Back in the day we used EZ's for our climbing saws. I think all of ours were red. I really like the blue ones. Anyway, I couldn't remember for sure if ours were Super EZ's or just EZ's. Then I started looking at other models. What made a Super, a Super? What's the difference between an XL923 and a Super XL923? Thanks, Joe.
 
:deadhorse:



If the throttle shaft bushings/holes in the carb body are worn it can suck air past them (and idle high) as well...

Since I've replaced the engine in this saw (everything but the carburetor) and it still does the same thing, I'm betting the problem is in the carb. One day this week I need to go see a friend of mine who has a bunch of Homelite parts and see if he'll sell me a carb to fit it.
 
Was just looking at saws on Acre's site. Back in the day we used EZ's for our climbing saws. I think all of ours were red. I really like the blue ones. Anyway, I couldn't remember for sure if ours were Super EZ's or just EZ's. Then I started looking at other models. What made a Super, a Super? What's the difference between an XL923 and a Super XL923? Thanks, Joe.

Super for the E-Z series meant a crank driven auto oiler pump and a larger bore. On the XL-923.......................'Super' may have just been a badging/marketing thing. For the XL-12/XL-15/SXL/etc family, Super meant a larger bore, and sometimes a four petal 'pyramid' reed block (instead of the single 'flat' reed setup).
 
And another prime example here. I've had the gear drive for some time now and thanks to a fellow friend and member... Aaron, he had the saw and was searching for a drive. So being that they needed put together to actually work, a trade was made. Aaron, very nice job on the saw, it ran great and started on the 4th pull from dry.


It needed the normal clutch removed to add the gear drive, what a pain to mount the drive on this beast! I am surprised that it only has three shoes. Can anybody say this is normal for an XL-15?


Remove the drum and nut, slide the drive on, but not before the spacers and bar. Trying to hold it all together at once was the chore.


Tighten it all down


and replace the chain cover


Filled with oil to the fill hole and fired up.. if you notice, the rakers are almost flat. I can pull up on the bar as hard as I can and not slow it down with a 16" bar! I'll be mounting a larger bar after I run it good this weekend, probably a 24" roller nose. Seems to cut almost as fast as a normal XL-12, wonder what the drive ratio is... anybody?

I've been chasing this saw nearly since I joined, thanks Aaron.. I'm happy, happy, happy today!

I am so happy to see that saw once again wearing a gear drive clutch cover Randy. That is REALLY cool. All I did was clean it up, rebuild the carburetor, replace the fuel line, and sort out the ignition. It's a strong, low-time runner. Decided that I'd most likely never find a good gear drive setup for it................and it'd probably just sit on the shelf. Glad our deal came together.

Looking at Steve's Super XL-15 brochure, I can see why your gear drive clutch cover was blue/white instead or red/white. Must've come from a Super XL-15. IIRC, Cliff or Ric posted scans of the XL-15 brochure a while back. It was red/white (unlike the blue of the Super). Can't recall if the specs showed a three or six shoe clutch. The shoes are probably 'standard' XL-12 shoes. I have a good clutch out of an early (blue/white) Super XL-12. Can send you three shoes from it if ya'd like. Are you going to paint that gear drive unit red to match the saw?

2.91 to 1 and I believe it's supposed to have 6 shoes.

6b6b89df0b34d644a811319613b5cd16.jpg


Very nice RARE saw. Great combined effort to make a complete running saw!

Thanks for posting that Super XL-15 brochure Steve. I'd never seen the Super XL-15 before. I've seen XL-15, XL-Automatic Gear Drive, and Super XL-Automatic Gear Drive brochure scans before. IIRC those last two versions are also red/white for the 'regular' XL-Automatic Gear Drive and blue/white for the 'super'. They're in Cliff's Chainsaw Literature thread if I'm not mistaken. I have IPL's for those two. Interesting that the Super XL-15 was 3.55ci and had a pyramid reed setup. My early Super XL-12 (sadly had to part it out due to corrosion.............though it did help several saws in death) was 3.55ci but had the single 'flat' reed.

Randy's XL-15 is 3.3ci and has the single 'flat' reed setup. It pulled a 16" .404-.058G bar/chain with a .404-7 sprocket surprisingly well when I tested it. I see that the Super XL-15 in the brochure has a 3/8-8 sprocket. Funny that they list the bar range as 12-24". Dunno why anyone would want to run a 12" bar on one of these. I'd bet that these gear drives would run a 28" bar without trouble. A healthy SXL-AO can run a 24" bar (although a 20" is better on it).
 
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Super for the E-Z series meant a crank driven auto oiler pump and a larger bore. On the XL-923.......................'Super' may have just been a badging/marketing thing. For the XL-12/XL-15/SXL/etc family, Super meant a larger bore, and sometimes a four petal 'pyramid' reed block (instead of the single 'flat' reed setup).

Thanks, it's funny, my Dad switched from Macs to Homelites in the late 60's, so I've pretty much used nothing but Homelites my whole life. But, all I ever did was grab it and use it. Now that my interest is saving them, I've got a lot of learning to do, just to know a little about them. There were 3 XL12 series saws in the bunch my friend gave me Sat. I'm gonna look at them, and my others, and see if any are Supers. Thanks again, Joe.
 
If your IPL PN is PTO and F/W 58308A or 12282A. SKF 6119 double lip. SKF 6120 single lip. National
253747.

need to see if i've got this right. you're saying that the skf 6119 (or skf 6120, or national 253747) fits both the pto and flywheel sides? even though there're two different OE part numbers?
 
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need to see if i've got this right. you're saying that the skf 6119 fits both the pto and flywheel sides? even though there're two different OE part numbers?

I don't know on the IPL number but the way I understood it is some seals have one lip and some have two one for impulse side of pressure and the other for vacuum. The double lip seal is the better one to get from what I understand but I think ether one will work. Provided the part numbers listed cross to the ones needed.
 
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