Homelite Chainsaws

[roosterhog]

Would this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Angle-Tip-S...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a8cb920bc

Mr. Bow Saw: I really don't think that one will work. If I use snap ring pliers, they are going to have to be super narrow. The tips are going to have to get into a gap that looks to be less than a 16th of an inch.

 

[hans53]

Anyone know where I can order an air filter for a homelite model 6 22. It was my grandfathers and would like to bring back to running condition.

 

[fossil]

You might want to try a member here who goes by chainsawlady

 

[67L36Driver]

Some jackass tried to pull the clutch off a 360 with a three leg gear puller. Broke the 'S' clutch and bent the sprocket/drum beyond use.

Out in front of God and everybody is an arrow pointing to 'ON' and 'OFF'.

 

[fossil]

Think of it this way Carl; idiots are an important part of society. They provide jobs for those who work because someone needs to fix their screw ups. They also serve to keep the prices of the saws we want down because no shop will work on those older saws and the idiots give up soon after they break something.
Be thankful for them. I was always thankful that some of them managed to escape their public service jobs and find their way to the private sector to keep me employed.
On the other hand, it's nice to free of them now that I'm retired.

 

[67L36Driver]

I've got to agree with you. Thanks to the fubared clutch and a broken bit on the bar adjuster I got a 360 with monster compression and a new air filter.

I've been trying to score one but didn't want to deal with ignition issues.

Edit: It runs! Just a bit of priming and pulling.

And, maybe not monster compression. The starter pulley is a couple sizes undersmall. But, with the hokey ignition, I'm not messing with the plug to test it.

The fuel tank leaks................................Dang.

 

[madhatte]

I just now revived the old 909D I've had for awhile. It runs pretty well; next thing in the order of business is to get a good chain. The one on there now is an embarrassment to metallurgy.

 

[hans53]

Thanks I will give it a try.

You might want to try a member here who goes by chainsawlady[/quote

 

[67L36Driver]

One thing on the 360 refurb. stands out. The starter pulley is way undersize for 57cc. That gives him an advantage should he want to bite.

Bout broke my fingers on the XP-1000 last week.

 

[leecopland]

Some jackass tried to pull the clutch off a 360 with a three leg gear puller. Broke the 'S' clutch and bent the sprocket/drum beyond use.

Out in front of God and everybody is an arrow pointing to 'ON'.

View attachment 338627

But sadly not OFF. I'm envious of your big Dawgs!

Lee

 

[67L36Driver]

What is the trick to get the pistol grip rubber off a 360. Won't slide off. All kinds of crud has messed up the function of the presence lever and fast idle latch.

 

[sawnami]

On the 650's and 750's, I've used a heat gun to make the grip more pliable so it has a little stretch and run a long thin screwdriver around under it to loosen it up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[lesorubcheek]

Yep, heat is your friend. Another tip is push back from the top, instead of pulling from the back. Same idea as those chinese finger things. Pushing will expand it, but pulling will draw it tighter. There's small detents up front. Once you've lifted those out of grooves and get it moving a little, it'll just get easier.

Dan

 

[67L36Driver]

Ended up cuting it off. Some one had glued it. Now looking for a replacement.

On the plus side, disasembled and cleaned the trigger/presence lever/fast idle latch jazz and now it mosly works like it should. So much trash in there that nothing worked right.

 

[edownr]

Yep. The XL-12 takes the same seal on both sides of the saw according to the IPL. That's Homelite # 12282A. The SKF interchange utility shows that it crosses over to 6120 (which you can substitute a 2-lip 6119 for if ya want.................most 'modern' saw crank seals are 2-lip).

Put "12282a" in this utility and it'll spit out "Homelite" and "6120".
http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm

The 6119 is .002" larger on the OD than the 6120, but I seriously doubt that it'd be an issue. Both are specified to fit a .875" bore.

http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=6119
http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=6120

According to the IPL's, the SXL-AO takes a different seal on the PTO side (Homelite #58308B) than the 12282A on the FW side.........................but I've seen where folks have said that the same seal can be used on both sides. I have also seen (in another seal interchange chart that I cannot find right now) that the National/Timken 253747 interchanges with the Homelite 58308B seal. Several charts show that SKF 6119 interchanges with the National 253747......................so we could use the "A=B, B=C, therefore A=C" logic to say that they're interchangeable. I haven't tried it myself yet however. I did recently tear down an SXL-AO..................so I should measure the shaft diameters, housing bore diameters, and seal depths to make 100% sure that it CAN be done without issues. That's a project for next weekend methinks....

In any case, for Jerry's XL-12 question..............................the seals that Tim stated will indeed work on both sides. The SXL question will have to wait for another day unless somebody here already has the answer (and that is highly likely). Jerry any XL-12 tank should work for your saw. The XL-Auto/SXL-AO/etc saw tanks will not work on your saw however.

Only thing you'll have to deal with (that I'm aware of) regarding the running production changes is that the fuel line size/type may be different. That's because the early XL-12 saws have the 'wick' tank pickups (with large copper fuel oultet tubes). These take 3/16" line. Later saws have a 'normal' in-tank like with a 'normal' clunk type filter. Those saws will either have a grommet in the 'pass thru' hole of the tank (with small diameter line passing through that grommet).............or a one-piece molded line with a 'fat' section that seals against the 'pass thru' hole. Both styles had identical tanks, and you can switch between the 'grommet' type and molded type line setups. Only real issue here is making sure that the fuel line size matches the barb on your carburetor.

Good news is that you do NOT need to remove the cylinder or split the crankcase from the drivecase on your saw to swap tanks. You do need to remove most everything else however. The three screws that hold the tank to the crankcase are under the points/coil bracket. Don't forget to disconnect the oil lines. You'll also have to remove the carb, intake manifold, carb box (remember those oil lines too), flywheel cover, flywheel, ignition parts, etc. Be prepared to deal with a LOT of 'saw cake' that will be tucked into all sorts of places.............especially under the FW cover, around the jug, and between the tank assembly and the crankcase....

New poster, but have been a lurking member for awhile. I also have been trying to find an interchange for the SXL-AO crank seals. For the flywheel side, I also believe that the SKF 6119, SKF 6120 and National 253747 are correct for Homelite part no. 12282-A. For the clutch/pto side, the IPLs I have show Homelite 58308 to 58308-A to 58308-B. The SKF interchange finds no matches, except for Homelite 58308A which shows interchanging to SKF 6120 - which is clearly in error. The clutch/pto side bearing and seal are larger in OD and ID.

I do believe, as stated above, that the SKF 6119, SKF 6120 and National /Timken 253747 are all correct for both sides of the XL-12 crankshaft and the flywheel side only of the SXL-AO (caged needle bearings).
The clutch/pto side seal remains a mystery to me. Does anyone have OD and ID measurements for the seal areas or know a correct seal interchange number? I would greatly appreciate any help.

By the way, I have gone thru all the Homelite postings and greatly enjoy this site.
Edownr

 

[67L36Driver]

360 all healed up thanks to Mo. Jim and Chainsawlady.

This is an early production with the 90 deg. gear drive on the bar dog adjust. The 'S' clutch likes to slip with just a 16" bar.

 

[lesorubcheek]

360 all healed up thanks to Mo. Jim and Chainsawlady.

This is an early production with the 90 deg. gear drive on the bar dog adjust. The 'S' clutch likes to slip with just a 16" bar.

Those 'S' clutches aren't the best in the world, but lots of times they'll grip better if they're clean and you use some course sandpaper/emory cloth cross-ways on the clutch face and the inside of the sprocket where it contacts.

Dan

 

[watsonr]

Homelite XL-500 video. Needs an air filter cover, a longer bar and runs pretty good. Enjoy!

 

[Jeff Lary]

Well it seems to run pretty good ? You will beat me but... the guy wanted me to take off the bar you have now and put on the 30" +/_ bar he had on the floor. I thought 3' bar are you nuts !!! that saw will have all it wants with a 16" bar. Sorry egg on my face. But the guy has a knife on my bench right now I am making for him. When I take it down I will see if he still has that bar. Excuse me now while I crawl under a loose floor nail.... Jeff

 

[67L36Driver]

Those 'S' clutches aren't the best in the world, but lots of times they'll grip better if they're clean and you use some course sandpaper/emory cloth cross-ways on the clutch face and the inside of the sprocket where it contacts.

Dan

Present clutch has some ridges on the outer ridge. My see if there is a way to chuck it in a lathe and true it up. Or, just knock off the high spot for more contact area.