Homelite Chainsaws

[Beavers]

They had many color combinations, sometimes different color schemes on the same models.
Not sure why. We'd have to find a marketing guy that worked there. I think many of their saws were painted up pretty nicely. Lots of two tone saws.

This paint scheme is one of my favourites.

 

[Beavers]

Tim are the colour schemes a combination of Paint & decals on those saws? the 2 tone is nice.

Brian

 

[fossil]

Nope. That's all paint. The model designations on the XL and 700, 800 & 900 series were silkscreened until near the end. A lot of time (and money) went into decorating those saws.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Snapped this picture of some of my larger Homelites I could easily get to this morning.

 

[Acornhill]

What cylinder do you guys think this is, a 650 piston will slide in but it is tight

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What piston do you guys think this is...,

Looks like a cylinder to me.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Sure looks like a 650 cylinder. 750s besides obviously being a little bigger, had removable covers over the transfers. 650 cylinders didn't have the removable covers. That decomp setup is unique to 650s and 750s.
Dan

 

[Acornhill]

i think it is 650 as well, thanks for the info.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Got my C5 out yesterday to drop a tree and it would only sputter and run ragged like it was missing. Last used it bout two months ago when it was hot and it ran great. Turned off colder here so am wondering if coils are affected by the cold as well as heat. Had the same symptoms on my XL 12 couple months ago; was the coil. So, without checking, I'm assuming coil. Course I will check all components when I tear it down.
Question still remains regarding coils and cold.

 

[Red97]

Got my C5 out yesterday to drop a tree and it would only sputter and run ragged like it was missing. Last used it bout two months ago when it was hot and it ran great. Turned off colder here so am wondering if coils are affected by the cold as well as heat. Had the same symptoms on my XL 12 couple months ago; was the coil. So, without checking, I'm assuming coil. Course I will check all components when I tear it down.
Question still remains regarding coils and cold.

Check the plug wire. My friend has an old c-5 that had those symptoms and the wire was rotted out of the boot push the wire in and it ran fine.

 

[67L36Driver]

Jerry: Be very careful with the 'C' type coil. I ruined two trying to change the plug lead.

I have since resorted to splicing on a length of wire rather than disturbing the coil connection.

 

[Red97]

I scored a nice example of the xl923, needs fuel lines and carb kit. Curious to see how it compares to my sxl925.

 

[fossil]

i think it is 650 as well, thanks for the info.

I scored a nice example of the xl923, needs fuel lines and carb kit. Curious to see how it compares to my sxl925.

Nice saw. Not many hours on that judging by the plate left on the muffler.

 

[Red97]

Nice saw. Not many hours on that judging by the plate left on the muffler.

Thank you, Im just excited to have a 80cc saw with a decomp. lol p/c looks good and compression is good. fuel line and carb kit and I will have to do a 80cc comparison. sxl925 vs xl923 vs c7.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Jerry: Be very careful with the 'C' type coil. I ruined two trying to change the plug lead.

I have since resorted to splicing on a length of wire rather than disturbing the coil connection.

So Carl. You saying the Lead on the C coils doesn't screw on or off? What, it's glued in?

 

[67L36Driver]

So Carl. You saying the Lead on the C coils doesn't screw on or off? What, it's glued in?

Yup pushed in on the tiny nail in the center bottom and glued. The trouble is, if you pull it out, the secondary to nail connection is broke. At least it happened to me twice.

Several times now I've used a 16 ga. butt splice to connect a new length of plug wire to the old. Make the gap very short. Use a 1 1/2 " length of 1/4" rubber hose and slide it over the splice for insulation. Goober some sealer over the splice first. I use Liquid Tape from Lowes.

Plan ahead so the splice has plenty of room to clear it's surroundings.

 

[fossil]

Thank you, Im just excited to have a 80cc saw with a decomp. lol p/c looks good and compression is good. fuel line and carb kit and I will have to do a 80cc comparison. sxl925 vs xl923 vs c7.

looking forward to see how they compare.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Yup pushed in on the tiny nail in the center bottom and glued. The trouble is, if you pull it out, the secondary to nail connection is broke. At least it happened to me twice.

Several times now I've used a 16 ga. butt splice to connect a new length of plug wire to the old. Make the gap very short. Use a 1 1/2 " length of 1/4" rubber hose and slide it over the splice for insulation. Goober some sealer over the splice first. I use Liquid Tape from Lowes.

Plan ahead so the splice has plenty of room to clear it's surroundings.

10-4 but seems like using the butt splice would preclude a short gap since they're typically 1/2 - 3/4" long. Ever tried twisting the ends, soldering, and then liquid tape?

 

[67L36Driver]

I trim the 16 ga. butt splice down to less than 3/8" long. Strip back the insulation on the plug wire and lap it over in the splice. End up with a very short gap to fill.

Soldering will work just as good but I'm not an accomplished solder iron jockey.

 

[crazy4saws]

Reporting back on my crank seal problem. I installed the skf 6119 seal with high temp silicon on the edge. Let it cure, reassembled, pulled a few times, started right up idling nice. I think my high and low were around 1.25 turns. Here is a pic of the seal job.

My XL12 is a manual oiler only. So before I put it in wood I checked the oiler. Nothing. Oil was full. I unscrewed the oil pump. Everything looked good except the o ring, it looked as if it was well used or not the right size. Gonna go to the hardware store and pick one up. Is there anything else I should check on those oilers?
Everyone thanks for helping me identify the saw and advice on the seal. Fossil a big thanks to you man really appreciate it!