Homelite Chainsaws

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Reporting back on my crank seal problem. I installed the skf 6119 seal with high temp silicon on the edge. Let it cure, reassembled, pulled a few times, started right up idling nice. I think my high and low were around 1.25 turns. Here is a pic of the seal job.

My XL12 is a manual oiler only. So before I put it in wood I checked the oiler. Nothing. Oil was full. I unscrewed the oil pump. Everything looked good except the o ring, it looked as if it was well used or not the right size. Gonna go to the hardware store and pick one up. Is there anything else I should check on those oilers?
Everyone thanks for helping me identify the saw and advice on the seal. Fossil a big thanks to you man really appreciate it!

Glad to hear it's running well. On most of the Homelites I've bought the oil lines, were plugged with gunk. Blow the lines out from the pump to the outlet and make sure the pick up in the tank and one way valve are cleaned out as well. The only other thing that will keep it from pumping is if someone has over tightened the compression fittings on the oil lines which let's them suck air. I had that issue on an XL-700.
If that's the case, I think that tubing and fittings may be available at a hobby shop that caters to gas powered model planes etc.

Let us know how you make out.
I kind of like the manual oiler saws. Auto Homelites pump a lot of oil and leave a puddle when they sit for a minute idling.
I don't see any reason you couldn't use plastic line if you can't get copper.
 
Some of you may have noticed I keep having coil issues. First the XL 102. Then the XL 12. Then the XL 123. Then the C 5.
Now my EZA. got three points type coils for the EZA; one never works and two are sporadic. I tested continuity with an ohmmeter. Both with and without the HV lead

Need points type coil for a homelite EZA.
 
Jerry: maybe it's time to check your ohm checker with a known good checker.

That many bad coils is way over the allowed limit for a single checker operator.
not a bad idea but the fact is that none of the coils make spark. I agree with your assessment though. I think its a coil conspiracy
 
Some of you may have noticed I keep having coil issues. First the XL 102. Then the XL 12. Then the XL 123. Then the C 5.
Now my EZA. got three points type coils for the EZA; one never works and two are sporadic. I tested continuity with an ohmmeter. Both with and without the HV lead

Need points type coil for a homelite EZA.
bump
 
What can you guys tell me bout these NOS P/C's?
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I think they are for the 540 & 8800 but can't really confirm that. There are both dual and quad transfers but other than that they are all 4 nearly identical.....
 
What to watch for on XL-101 types: The 'magneto backplate' on early production were held in with three screws which always got loose.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418850576.260416.jpg

You can tell right away from the backside of the flywheel.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418850643.930054.jpg

These came out with my fingers. No Phillips required.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418850710.236196.jpg

The fix is to drill/tap the holes 1/4" deeper and use longer hex socket flat head screw (1/4-20) with a dose of Loctite blue.

Really lean on the Allen wrench.
 
Hi guys,
I went to a few flea markets the other day and ran across this old metal logging hat. I think I have only seen one Homelite hat compared to the McCulloch hats. I don't remember what the Homelite hat looked like i saw a long time ago but this one looks pretty old. Are there a few different types of these? What doed the oldest hat look like?

I think it has FC McDonald company stamped on it along with a bunch of patent dates. Anyway it is in real good shape besides the one dent on the top but that adds character to it and tells a story. I'm glad I ran across it as I collect anything Chainsaw related. Pretty nice.

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I have TONS of NOS Homelite. Come down to the shop and browse if you need parts. I don't have time to dig through the shelfs and racks.
 
Can anyone point me in the right direction I got a homelite 360 started having problems with it. Here's the info new intake boot, rebuild carb, new crank seals cleaned everything new plug ect. Problem is starts up fine idles let it warm up start cutting after log or two just dies wont restart have to take transformer off and plug out let it air out. Is this a fuel issue should get a new carb or coil heating up taking a crap?
 
I put new fuel line and filter I checked the breather put some steel wool in temp so it breathes and also tried with cap unscrewed a little bit. I rebuilt the carb new kit checked metering height everything its got me confused I just can't figure it out.
 

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