Homelite Chainsaws

[67L36Driver]

In a pinch, I suspect the 2 1/16" rings could be filed down? As long as the other dimensions are the same, of course. Are these rings hard to come by?

Nope. Check evilbay seller Dandikrop AKA 'The Greek'. Shop his listings by size. Pay attention to end gap configuration (locator notch).

I suspect that 50mm x 1.5 mm thick will be close enuff.

I would not attempt to file the 2 1/16" to fit.

 

[towingace]

Nope. Check evilbay seller Dandikrop AKA 'The Greek'. Shop his listings by size. Pay attention to end gap configuration (locator notch).

I suspect that 50mm x 1.5 mm thick will be close enuff.

I would not attempt to file the 2 1/16" to fit.

I keep hearing about him. I'm gonna take a peek as soon as I hang up here. Thanks for the tip & info.

 

[67L36Driver]

Homelite 410 is a Solo made??

All I have is this phone right now so can't look it up on Acres.

 

[sawnami]

Homelite 410 is a Solo made??

All I have is this phone right now so can't look it up on Acres.

That would be correct. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-N910V

 

[fossil]

The one you have should have a 2" bore and is 77cc. They are a very powerful saw. 16" is a bit of a joke. If I had one I would put a 24" on it but it wears the Canadian standard 20" bar. Both mine plus a VI 922 came with 8 pin rims on them.

Since you've pulled the plate which holds the seal and bearing, make sure the "O" ring behind it is in good shape or you'll have a vacuum leak.

The piston pin will slide out easily once the pin clip(s) are removed.

Seals on both sides are the same as the 3400, SKF 6119 or National 253747. I've been finding the Nationals to considerably tighter and therefore harder to get into the seal pocket so I'm just using SKF 6119's or the single lip SKF 6120 seals. The double lip seals have only one sealing lip. The outer is a dust shield. There are double sealing lip seals but very limited in size so either the 6119 or 6120 will work equally as well.

I also find that most of the Homelites I've bought have plugged up oil systems and while you have it apart you should clean it all out well including pulling the tank fittings and pick up hoses.
Working properly, they will oil heavily.

I find the larger XL's (700 - 900) very easy to work on and well worth the effort. Following the manual is good advice.

Good advice from Carl on the piston. Find a new or used one 2" piston.
I just changed a P&C out on a Super XL-922 and used one of the 902 P&Cs The 922 broke a ring as well and it ended up in the combustion chamber and out the muffler I assume. It wrecked the piston and cylinder. Make sure the wrist pin bearing in the piston is in good shape.

The locating pins in the ring lands should be opposite the exhaust port.

 

[Hoggwood]

The one you have should have a 2" bore and is 77cc. They are a very powerful saw. 16" is a bit of a joke. If I had one I would put a 24" on it but it wears the Canadian standard 20" bar. Both mine plus a VI 922 came with 8 pin rims on them.

Since you've pulled the plate which holds the seal and bearing, make sure the "O" ring behind it is in good shape or you'll have a vacuum leak.

The piston pin will slide out easily once the pin clip(s) are removed.

Seals on both sides are the same as the 3400, SKF 6119 or National 253747. I've been finding the Nationals to considerably tighter and therefore harder to get into the seal pocket so I'm just using SKF 6119's or the single lip SKF 6120 seals. The double lip seals have only one sealing lip. The outer is a dust shield. There are double sealing lip seals but very limited in size so either the 6119 or 6120 will work equally as well.

I also find that most of the Homelites I've bought have plugged up oil systems and while you have it apart you should clean it all out well including pulling the tank fittings and pick up hoses.
Working properly, they will oil heavily.

I find the larger XL's (700 - 900) very easy to work on and well worth the effort. Following the manual is good advice.

Good advice from Carl on the piston. Find a new or used one 2" piston.
I just changed a P&C out on a Super XL-922 and used one of the 902 P&Cs The 922 broke a ring as well and it ended up in the combustion chamber and out the muffler I assume. It wrecked the piston and cylinder. Make sure the wrist pin bearing in the piston is in good shape.

The locating pins in the ring lands should be opposite the exhaust port.

Thanks for the detailed reply Tim.
I will begin the search for an appropriate piston and/or wait until one shows up. I see an AM one on ebay but am naïve with respect to such matters and purists might cringe. It will also need a new sprocket. I just realized that spur is actually an 8 and is pretty much shredded. I can afford to spend a few $ as it came my way pretty cheap. Just looking to get another sleeper going.

 

[towingace]

Just for eye candy, did you see the xl 925 on the Trading Post? Just posted this am along with a buttload of other saws. Group pic looks like, maybe 2 of 'em.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Homelite 410 is a Solo made??

All I have is this phone right now so can't look it up on Acres.

Not sure this has ever been conclusively proven. The 290 and 340 are without a doubt Solo and have equivalent models 647 and 654. The 410 and 540 (8800 too) seem to have influences that could well be from Solo, but don't think there's any equivalent Solo models that match. It may well have been that Homelite contracted with Solo to design and/or build these models, but don't think anyone has turned up any actual evidence. It'd be good to find out the scoop on these, either from an old article or someone who was around that dealt with them at the time. I still consider the answer ot this question as a "maybe".

Dan

 

[fossil]

The first time I opened your post, I couldn't see pics. I've been trying to ID a saw that I just picked up. I was thinking it might be a xl-923, because of the manual oiler being on the side instead of the rear. Now that I see yours, I'm thinking I better keep researching, because the muffler, along with the side-mounted oiler, looks the same. I need to figure out my bore size to narrow it down. As near as I can tell, there were quite a few very similar models, but only a couple different bore sizes. The 82cc saws have a 52mm bore.

Any chance you could post a few pics of that saw? The 923 should have the manual oiler mounted near the on/off switch like a 925. It should have a decomp as well. It may be a Canadian version as they continued to use the side mounted oilers on the later style rear handles after the US saws changed to the rear mount oiler.

 

[rocketnorton]

Hi folks,

I am looking for a bit of guidance on a xl-902 I picked up. Any help would be great as I am always learning as I go along.

It appears as though someone before me had pulled the jug and reinstalled the piston backwards (locating pins should face intake right???) The rings have broken when they got hung up on the exhaust port I figure. One of the broken pieces is holding good and well within the ring groove. The other missing piece....? The saw had decent compression and I could get it to fire. I pulled the points assembly plate not realizing it actually housed/supported the crank, bearing and seal. The inside crankcase looks really nice so I would prefer to not split the case. Aside from the generous gouge on the piston there is no other scoring I can detect with my nails on the piston itself. The cylinder is very clean aside from the two nicks right at the bottom and top of the adjacent ports. Everything above the transfers/exhaust port is clean and the chrome shows no Al transfer. I don't have a proper set of calipers to measure the piston diameter but arcing my small digitals across the crown came up with 50.64mm.

I would like to track down some appropriate rings (perhaps from The Greek?) if there is a part number. Is there a preferred direction to pushing out the wrist pin (assuming that is the best way to flip the piston)? Any heat needed? I'll need to somehow get out that broken section of ring without damaging the landings. Tips? I might add this was a cheap pickup so if I can keep and run that piston I would.

I am certain to have a few more Q's so I will leave it at that.

Thanks in advance. I am looking forward to seeing how this will manage the 16" bar the PO was running!
View attachment 401178 View attachment 401179 View attachment 401180 View attachment 401185

have a 24ish bar for that yer welcome to...

 

[towingace]

Any chance you could post a few pics of that saw? The 923 should have the manual oiler mounted near the on/off switch like a 925. It should have a decomp as well. It may be a Canadian version as they continued to use the side mounted oilers on the later style rear handles after the US saws changed to the rear mount oiler.

You bet, I was hoping to do that yesterday. I didn't know about the decomp, I don't think it has one. When I get to the shop today, I'll get some pics up.

 

[Hoggwood]

have a 24ish bar for that yer welcome to...

Thanks for the offer Pete that is very generous. Set it aside. I aim to stop by if it works this summer when off to the Island Salmon fishing. I'd like to drop off a couple 6 cubes that need wraps welded. You can make some chips with them for a few days and I'll bring you back a nice Spring.

 

[rocketnorton]

sounds good, its just hangin there, not advertised. don't fit the only homie I got 990g. will put yer name on it

 

[towingace]

Pics are here I had more, but the pics are too big & got cut off. Has that clutch cover been modified, or did some come like that? The front bar stud hole has been elongated to fit this saw.

 

[fossil]

I can't tell a lot from the pics but here goes my half azzed guesses.

It looks like an early saw and I'll bet the fuel tank vent is not in the cap but is a check valve vented to the carb box. If so you will see an aluminum fitting with a small hole in it to the left of the carb sticking through a hole in the carb box.
The clutch cover does not look like it is original to the saw. It may be from a VI944 / VI955. Those saws don't have the clutch cover that covers the oil & fuel lines as part of the anti vibe system covers them.
The front handle bar is an older design.
The spacing and size of the carb mixture screws look like it may be an early saw HS 26.

I can't see the oil line plumbing to tell if it has an auto oiler.

I'm going to guess it's an XL-901

There are many older Homelites that I have no access to an IPL for so I may be way off base but I really doubt it's a 923.

And there you have the ramblings of a guessing idiot.

Some good side shots of the whole saw case and handles with the clutch cover off might help a bit.

That whole series of saws are good stout machines whatever it is.

 

[huck01955]

Hear is a new one for my collection

 

[fossil]

Wow Joe!. Where did you scoop that? (Get your nephew on the end of that one)

 

[fossil]

Pics are hereView attachment 401748 View attachment 401751I had more, but the pics are too big & got cut off. Has that clutch cover been modified, or did some come like that? The front bar stud hole has been elongated to fit this saw.

Sorry, I didn't see the note about the front hole on the clutch cover.
You could always post the pics in a few replies if you like.

 

[towingace]

Sorry about the pics, still learnin" how to do this. I did take another look at the saw, it has a vented cap & a HS26A Tilly. The clutch cover is identical to the one off of my VI955. Shouldn't the bar stud spacing be the same on the two saws? The 901(?) has a 5/16" stud on the front & a 3/8" one on the rear. I believe some kind of repair has been done there & something isn't right. Also, it has an auto oiler. Gonna try a couple more pics here.

 

[towingace]

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