Homelite Chainsaws

[Don Ens]

SKF 6119 double lip. SKF 6120 single lip. National
253747.

Realize this thread is quite old, but still very relevent.
I have a Homelite XL1 AO which should be the same as the Super EZ. Order the 6120 seals from local bearing and seal distributor. The seals are too big! The ID seems fine but the OD is larger. Looked at the original thread again, and was confused whether these numbers reference tmessenger request or other posts for other model saws. Please clarify.

 

[fossil]

That was in reference to an old XL-12 not XL-1. If the seals you are looking for are Homelite 65019 the replacement seals would be SKF 4913.

The 6120's and 6119's do fit in a number of the older Homelites but not the XL-1, Mini, EZ

 

[Don Ens]

That was in reference to an old XL-12 not XL-1. If the seals you are looking for are Homelite 65019 the replacement seals would be SKF 4913.

The 6120's and 6119's do fit in a number of the older Homelites but not the XL-1, Mini, EZ

Thanks alot, especially for the quick reply and considering the original thread is quite old! Thought perhaps I misread the reference! Yes, it is the 65019 seal, I need. Guess I'll search for the proper seal. Are you aware of a comparable seal by National?

 

[fossil]

From Timken's cross reference catalog,
SKF 4913 seal crosses to National 340847

My experience is showing that the National's tend to be a little tighter fit in the bore than the SKF's. Both perform well but it is easier to ruin a National on installation due to the tighter fit. Just my 2 cents.

I just put SKF 4913's in my Super Mini

 

[Don Ens]

From Timken's cross reference catalog,
SKF 4913 seal crosses to National 340847

My experience is showing that the National's tend to be a little tighter fit in the bore than the SKF's. Both perform well but it is easier to ruin a National on installation due to the tighter fit. Just my 2 cents.

I just put SKF 4913's in my Super Mini

Thanks for the heads up! Not sure how much trouble it will be to find either locally, as had problems finding this kind of seal and on the web the costs are can be out of this world, primarily due to the shipping cost. $20-$30 shipping for a $6 seal!!!
Thanks again.

 

[towingace]

Thanks alot, especially for the quick reply and considering the original thread is quite old! Thought perhaps I misread the reference! Yes, it is the 65019 seal, I need. Guess I'll search for the proper seal. Are you aware of a comparable seal by National?

The benefit of this type of thread is, it only gets better with age! That's the whole idea.

 

[fossil]

Thanks for the heads up! Not sure how much trouble it will be to find either locally, as had problems finding this kind of seal and on the web the costs are can be out of this world, primarily due to the shipping cost. $20-$30 shipping for a $6 seal!!!
Thanks again.

It may be of some help to know that the 4913 seal is used in many GM transmissions so you may be able to pick it up at NAPA. If you are in rural SK that may be tough.

I get mine from an industrial supply house who orders them for me. If you can, shop around as some of the bearing houses are rip off artists.

Factory Number Cross Interchange Type for SKF 4913
TIMKEN 340847 Direct Cross Interchange 8
NOK AD0436E0 Direct Cross Interchange 6
VICTOR 63092 Direct Cross Interchange 6
L&S Bearing 714913 Direct Cross Interchange 6
NATIONAL 340847 Direct Cross Interchange 6
DT Components 340847 Direct Cross Interchange 2
Precision Seals & Bearings 340847 Direct Cross Interchange 2
Precision Seals & Bearings 43095S Direct Cross Interchange 1
TROSTEL B48322 Direct Cross Interchange 1
MACK 14584913 Direct Cross Interchange 1
DT Components 43095S Direct Cross Interchange 1
TRANSCOM 050716TC Direct Cross Interchange 1
TRANSCOM 05071TM Direct Cross Interchange 1
TRANSCOM 05071TZ Direct Cross Interchange 1
NAVISTAR CR4913 Direct Cross Interchange 1
FORD 96584913 Direct Cross Interchange

 

[Don Ens]

Thanks for the heads up! Not sure how much trouble it will be to find either locally, as had problems finding this kind of seal and on the web the costs are can be out of this world, primarily due to the shipping cost. $20-$30 shipping for a $6 seal!!!
Thanks again.

Should have checked grammar! Anyway, have you had any problem putting the seals in just taking the flywheel and clutch assemblies off, leaving the crankcase intact? Otherwise this little XL1 needs to torn down to bare bones.

 

[towingace]

Thanks for the heads up! Not sure how much trouble it will be to find either locally, as had problems finding this kind of seal and on the web the costs are can be out of this world, primarily due to the shipping cost. $20-$30 shipping for a $6 seal!!!
Thanks again.

Why is shipping so high to your area? I got a quote for shipping a small part (076 oiler) from the UK yesterday. It converted to approx. $7.00. I do need to get a confirm though, as they stated "shipping to US". I'm on the west coast. I provided my zip in the email, so you would assume the quote would be to there, maybe they have a flat rate. That quote is only about 1lb ($1.50) more than the "shipping to UK" price. Seems pretty cheap. I THINK I'm doing the conversion right!

 

[fossil]

No trouble getting either side off. I use a steering wheel puller (see type in pic below) for the flywheel and depending upon which clutch the XL-1 has I use a modified socket to get the clutch off. If you have an "S" clutch, be careful as they are fragile. Remember the clutch has left hand threads so turn it clockwise to get it off.
I'll PM you a link to a service manual in case you don't have one. Check your inbox.

 

[Don Ens]

No trouble getting either side off. I use a steering wheel puller (see type in pic below) for the flywheel and depending upon which clutch the XL-1 has I use a modified socket to get the clutch off. If you have an "S" clutch, be careful as they are fragile. Remember the clutch has left hand threads so turn it clockwise to get it off.
I'll PM you a link to a service manual in case you don't have one. Check your inbox.
View attachment 397691

First, towingace: check out skf 4913 seal at http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from...H0.Xskf+4913+seal&_nkw=skf+4913+seal&_sacat=0
This is the norm for small engine parts, under 1 lb, for our postal code. On top of that, this can increase if Customs levies import and/or taxes. Not sure why! This is not the case for anything coming from Asian countries, mostly just the US.
Now fossil:
Thanks again. Got your link in an email! Haven't looked yet! No problem getting the flywheel and clutch off. For the clutch, made my own spanner wrench and with the piston stop pin in the spark plug hole comes off easy. The main thing is whether I need to disassemble the cylinder, crank bearing to remove the crank, to remove and install the seals. Never tried that before, so would like to know from someone who has actually done it.

 

[fossil]

Nope. When you pull the flywheel the points plate needs to come out (three screws) to expose the seal. On the clutch side the oil pump needs to come off to expose the seal.

I just ground a screwdriver tip down to a hook to remove the seals but you can carefully drill a small hole in the seal case and insert a drywall screw and pop it out that way.

It's better to use some starter rope down the spark plug hole rather than a piston stop as the stop can damage your piston. Just make sure the piston is above the ports so the rope doesn't get into them.

 

[towingace]

First, towingace: check out skf 4913 seal at http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xskf 4913 seal&_nkw=skf 4913 seal&_sacat=0
This is the norm for small engine parts, under 1 lb, for our postal code. On top of that, this can increase if Customs levies import and/or taxes. Not sure why! This is not the case for anything coming from Asian countries, mostly just the US.
Now fossil:
Thanks again. Got your link in an email! Haven't looked yet! No problem getting the flywheel and clutch off. For the clutch, made my own spanner wrench and with the piston stop pin in the spark plug hole comes off easy. The main thing is whether I need to disassemble the cylinder, crank bearing to remove the crank, to remove and install the seals. Never tried that before, so would like to know from someone who has actually done it.

I see what you're saying. That's god awful. Even in the States, especially on complete saws, the shipping can be a deal breaker.

Good luck with your project. Sounds like you're in good hands.

 

[Don Ens]

Nope. When you pull the flywheel the points plate needs to come out (three screws) to expose the seal. On the clutch side the oil pump needs to come off to expose the seal.

I just ground a screwdriver tip down to a hook to remove the seals but you can carefully drill a small hole in the seal case and insert a drywall screw and pop it out that way.

It's better to use some starter rope down the spark plug hole rather than a piston stop as the stop can damage your piston. Just make sure the piston is above the ports so the rope doesn't get into them.

My XL1 has solid state ignition (factory). Forgot about the oil pump, as the clutch side is already all removed to the seal. Good advice on the piston stop! I'll keep that in mind. What do you used for installation? Shop press with lots of lithium grease?

 

[fossil]

No presses. They go in fairly easily. They must go in square so take your time and don't cock the seal. If you do, pop it back up with your finger and start again. I use an appropriate size deep socket, piece of pipe or whatever that will slip over the crank snouts and is close to the seal OD. Put them in at the same depth they are now. Some cases have a chamfer on the case pocket so they should be just past that.

Make sure you get the seal lip over the step in the crank on the clutch side before you start tapping it in. Grease the lip(s) on the seal.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A large washer under the socket also helps to achieve proper alignment during installation and eliminates the possibility of driving the seal too deep into the bore when a flush fit is required.

 

[sawnami]

Well, the combination of 3 C-clamps, a pair of Channellocks, and a small screwdriver got the clutch springs on. Most I can roll right on but not these. [emoji37]

Sent from my SM-N910V

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Well, the combination of 3 C-clamps, a pair of Channellocks, and a small screwdriver got the clutch springs on. Most I can roll right on but not these. [emoji37]

Sent from my SM-N910V

wimp. glad you got it on. be curious to know how you held all those tools at the same time.

 

[sawnami]

wimp. glad you got it on. be curious to know how you held all those tools at the same time.

Has something to do about the analogy of a monkey and a football.

Sent from my SM-N910V

 

[jerrycmorrow]

need to do over so we can have pix. ya know its easier the second time anyway