JT78
ArboristSite Guru
Still not sure what saw it is but I think it has 923 xl on the side.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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Looks like a 923 to me as well. It should have an HS 92D carb on it. It should also have a decompression valve on it.
Glad to hear you got it running.
Is it oiling OK?
Glad to hear you got it running.
Is it oiling OK?
JT78
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah oils fine I actually got the saw about 5-6 years ago rebuilt the carb ran it a few times in some big oak and it Sat tried to play with it at a festival a couple years back and it kept trying to go lean on me so I figured the crank seals were shot. It does have a decomp at the trigger. I broke the clutch spider getting it off ordered another that should be in soon.
Any other problem areas for an air leak I should be checking on this saw?
Any other problem areas for an air leak I should be checking on this saw?
Typical places would be the carb adapter as sometimes ham fisted owners crack them.
Others might be the cylinder base gasket, and maybe the decomp as Homelite has some issues with them. The crank seals are the only ones you need to check with vacuum. All the other leaks should show up if you can pressurize the crankcase and check with soapy water. Use about 8 psi of air.
The HS carbs also had very strong throttle return springs on them which caused the throttle rod to wear. Air leaks there (there is always an air leak there but it will not be consistent with a worn shaft so you can't tune it out) may only show up at certain positions of the throttle. If you can wiggle the rod up - down or front to back it's shot. You can very likely get a replacement rod from Chainsawlady. The carb body itself is not usually worn.
Others might be the cylinder base gasket, and maybe the decomp as Homelite has some issues with them. The crank seals are the only ones you need to check with vacuum. All the other leaks should show up if you can pressurize the crankcase and check with soapy water. Use about 8 psi of air.
The HS carbs also had very strong throttle return springs on them which caused the throttle rod to wear. Air leaks there (there is always an air leak there but it will not be consistent with a worn shaft so you can't tune it out) may only show up at certain positions of the throttle. If you can wiggle the rod up - down or front to back it's shot. You can very likely get a replacement rod from Chainsawlady. The carb body itself is not usually worn.
JT78
ArboristSite Guru
Anybody have a link to a cheap clutch removal tool for the 900 series homelites?
Blue XL-12, inboard clutch. It's still reverse threads to get the clutch off, right?
Thanks in advance!
--JC
Thanks in advance!
--JC
JT78
ArboristSite Guru
The xl12 should still be reverse thread for the clutch. Sometimes the clutches can be hard to break loose, I recently learned the hard way it's better to use the correct tool to get the clutch off.
I've had good luck dropping a couple of allen keys, that just fit, into the removal holes. Either clamp them in a vice and turn the power head or use a claw tooth hammer to lever them. Hammer works for me. The head behind one and the claw behind the other.
In either case, use a rectangular chunk of hardwood to block the piston.
I usually use the punch and BFH method. Vice with twist drill shanks as the alternate.
I usually use the punch and BFH method. Vice with twist drill shanks as the alternate.
Hey guys I stumbled across a sxl 925 by accident. Has 150 psi but really weak spark. Would this be coil? I have one of those inline light bulb testers and barely got a light. It's weak enough saw won't fire with mix down carb.
Solid state ignition? Check coil/module to flywheel gap, clean electrical connections.
Not sure what the technically correct spec is, but yes, I've always done .010 coil gap.
My dad taught me on Briggs-type small engines (all we had), to remember "10, 20, 30". Meaning .010 coil, .020 points, .030 plug. It's been my experience that most saws seem a little happier at .010, .018, .025. For whatever that's worth. Not sure how much timing advance that extra .007 equates to.
My dad taught me on Briggs-type small engines (all we had), to remember "10, 20, 30". Meaning .010 coil, .020 points, .030 plug. It's been my experience that most saws seem a little happier at .010, .018, .025. For whatever that's worth. Not sure how much timing advance that extra .007 equates to.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I picked up a 330 in a trade this weekend. Anybody know about these? Are they electronic ignition, good runners, worth keeping? I know it has anti-vibe. Any info or opinions appreciated.
I believe that by that time, all the Homies were electronic. But I could be wrong.
Have never run a 330, so I don't know much about them.
Have never run a 330, so I don't know much about them.
54cc, pyramid reed valve, electronic, anti-vibe. Impulse activated oil pump runs off crankcase. As with these diaphragm/impulse oilers, the diaphragm can stiffen. The rubber intake boot below the carburetor, that is held against the reed seat, is prone to deterioration. The movement of the av tends to tear them.
Mine came via a throw away. It runs surprisingly well. It came with a 20" full comp set-up. The build quality is not like the xl-12/sxlao/xl-76 etc. But, the av/chain brake/and size make it a decent saw for firewood and such.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check the intake boot.
Cleaned up the coil and wow the contacts were caked! Pulled it about a dozen times and hot damn it popped then popped a few more times with mix down carb. It'll need a carb rebuild but I think we've got a runner.
