Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I'll get pics after work. I need a bolt, a spacer, a cup washer, and 4 rings. Also need one bolt that holds lower housing to upper housing. Thanks
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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Chainsawlady might have the parts you need. You can also try here http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/c15/Homelite_330_Chainsaw.html
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
Thanks, I sent her a PM and she has what I need.
Anybody ever change the rear handle on a Homelite EZ saw? I have a broken one and a parts saw...Looks like everything back there has to come off?
Easy job. Basically bolts in the air box, carb, (reed block maybe), bolts from the side. Oil and fuel lines will pull through.
It's a good chance to get all the gunk out of the cylinder fins.
It's a good chance to get all the gunk out of the cylinder fins.
I'll give it a try pretty soon, hot in the shop right now, just doing what has to be done..
Did the job today, not quite as hot in the shop but still pretty warm. The handle replacement was a fairly straightforward job and would be even better for someone with small hands. I ended up taking out the carb, all the lines, bottom one was hard to get started threading straight, aluminum of course. Anyway I got it back together and running. Thanks, Tim.
PICS or it didn't happen
Those little carb boxes give me fits.
KYsawman
Mr XL-12
Here is my latest homelite to add to the collection. I am excited to have this one still has original homelite chain.
Does anyone have or know where to get a carb repair kit for a Homelite xp1020? I would like to get this big guy up and running. I can get it to run just not well, but I'm pretty sure the carb could use a new kit. No telling how old the one in it is.
It should have a Tillotson HL carb on it. The specific HL will be stamped on the flange that bolts to the saw. Like HL-222A or something like that. The kits are still made today and you should be able to buy one on line or get one from a decent small engine repair shop.
There are a number of specific kits.
You can find the kit number here
http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Repair-Kits-HL.pdf
Finally got this SXL 925 running. It had the Walbro WJ carb. But H adjust seems very very rich. I did some searching and found issues with the Tillotson carb but no mention of the Walbro with this same issue. Metering lever is level with carb body. Where else would extra fuel be coming from?
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I've been putting my 330 back together. Bought a used crankcase assembly after discovering a scored piston and cylinder. Changed all the lines, inspected the reeds and carb. boot. Took the carb. apart and pump side was full of trash. I had a kit for it, but found something that puzzles me. It's a Zama C1S and it had 2 diaphragms on the pump side. The normal pump and check valves next to carb body, then the gasket, then a diaphragm with one small chamber next to the cover. Is this right or did someone use too many parts out of a kit? The picture shows the 3 parts that came out. All of them are in the kit, but I hadn't come across a carb set up like this. Anybody familiar with these?
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
whoever put that together didn't know what they were doing. You need the brown part and one of the black parts, you can usually tell which one is right because of holes etc that it either covers or doesn't. take a pic of the carb with your kit pieces and it will probably be easy to tell which black part you need.
Brian
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
That's what I thought, but today I looked up zama c1s on internet and found an exploded view showing both diaphragms on the pump side in the order they were in my carb. I put it together with just the normal pump diaphragm and gasket and it won't tune right. Acts lean coming off throttle, then gets rich and idles real low. At throttle up it's rich for a second then leans out. I'm gonna put the other diaphragm in tonight and see what happens. Will post results tonight
you need to look again. the zama manual shows only one gasket and one diaphragm for the pump section. go to zama and get the zama service repair manual. the C1S carb is in the category of "FOR ALL OTHER TYPES". just sayin. did you test the main nozzle (see the aforementioned zama manual)? did you soak the carb (see aforementioned manual)? just sayin.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
An update on the 330. Put the second diaphragm in on the pump side the way it came apart. Didn't change anything. Saw idle goes lean if I turn the saw upside down. Looked for air leaks and found a small hole in bottom of casting where reed block mounts. It looked like it was factory, so I checked the other crankcase and its got the same hole! Why would there be a hole in the intake tract? Here's pics of both.
Most likely the saw is going rich, not lean. The small hole was put there at the factory, be sure it is open and not plugged. It prevents fuel puddling in that area. If its plugged it may explain some of your problems. See TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 181-014 here. Now why they would put a hole, with not even a filter to prevent whatever entering the crankcase is beyond me. I believe a band aid for poor design.
330 zama carb
